Lowering/Tire size quetions

[JHILDE]

I have a 1982 Chevy C-10 stock suspension, Cragar 15x8 Street Star wheels. I currently have 255/60-15's on the front, the narrowest tires I thought I could safely fit on the 8" wheels (should have bought 6"). On the back I have 275/60-15" Nitto 555R drag radials. The truck makes about 475hp/550ft-lbs via a 388/4L80e combo and is mostly Sunday driven but sees the drag strip occasionally. I want to lower the truck so that the fender openings sit just level with the tops of the tires. I am looking for ideas on the best/most economical way to lower it and still be able to maintain the most driveability. At some point in my dumb teenager years I bottomed out the truck hard enough to bend/roll the lower control arms slightly at the bushings. Will that affect much or should I just live with it as I have been?

[bbbc10]

Go with a 4/6 i had 5/7 on 15x8 and 15x10 and i would recommend new control arms

[JHILDE]

Originally Posted by bbbc10

Go with a 4/6 i had 5/7 on 15x8 and 15x10 and i would recommend new control arms

Got pics of the 4/6 vs the 5/7? I was thinking of getting some 3" DJM lower control arms but then read a few things about not enough ground clearance.

What part of Garland? I have in-laws in the Miller/Broadway area.

[bbbc10]

Dont have any pics right now but you can look at my build thread an yea i would stay away from control arms go spindle and springs or just some 3" belltech spindles and a flip kit and stay around south garland of broadway

[SCOTI]

Originally Posted by JHILDE

Got pics of the 4/6 vs the 5/7? I was thinking of getting some 3" DJM lower control arms but then read a few things about not enough ground clearance.

What part of Garland? I have in-laws in the Miller/Broadway area.

If you tweaked your original arms before because of contact, you would have done serious damage utilizing DJM's 'dropped' arms because the 'pocket' of the arm hangs lower than the bushings.

Drop spindles & springs are the way to go for the front.

[Rangerman]

I have a 3.5/5 drop with factory control arms, I do have 17's though.

If you go more than 5" in the rear you will probably have to start notching the frame, with the 5" flip kit I did, I didnt notch.

[IMG]http://i190.photobucket.com/albums/z72/jstndrfr/image_zps1qxpc


[IMG]http://i190.photobucket.com/albums/z72/jstndrfr/image_zpsi2k

[IMG]http://i190.photobucket.com/albums/z72/jstndrfr/image_zpszpdobub

[JHILDE]

Originally Posted by Rangerman

I have a 3.5/5 drop with factory control arms, I do have 17's though.

If you go more than 5" in the rear you will probably have to start notching the frame, with the 5" flip kit I did, I didnt notch.

Do you have a picture of yours that is a direct side view, not at an angle?

[Rangerman]

Originally Posted by JHILDE

Do you have a picture of yours that is a direct side view, not at an angle?

[IMG]http://i190.photobucket.com/albums/z72

[RootBeerFXS]

Mine with a 5.5/7 and 245-60 / 295-50 combo (no motor) on top and a 5.5/8 255-60 / 275-60 combo (with motor) on bottom

[cheap]

a flip kit for the rear and drop spindles and springs or stock springs with a coil taken off will yield a 4/6. It's a pretty economical way to do it for the large of a drop, though you should probably get shocks made for a lowered truck as well

[Rangerman]

Originally Posted by cheap

a flip kit for the rear and drop spindles and springs or stock springs with a coil taken off will yield a 4/6. It's a pretty economical way to do it for the large of a drop, though you should probably get shocks made for a lowered truck as well

Standard shocks work with the flip kits if you got shock extenders, same with the front, standard shocks are great.

[JHILDE]

Originally Posted by Rangerman

Standard shocks work with the flip kits if you got shock extenders, same with the front, standard shocks are great.

I'm thinking I'll go with a 2.5" spindle and a 1" spring. So if I go with 3.5-4" of drop up front (Spindles and Springs) the stock shocks will still be fine? I'm sure that replacing the 35 year old springs would help my ride quality as well.

Is there one brand of springs/spindles that's any better than the others?

It seems that that people talk highly of Western Chassis flip kits and extenders, Is that right?

[SCOTI]

Western Chassis (2.5") or Bell Tech (3") for basic lowering spindles. Both have high quality rear flip kits as well.

[Rangerman]

Originally Posted by JHILDE

I'm thinking I'll go with a 2.5" spindle and a 1" spring. So if I go with 3.5-4" of drop up front (Spindles and Springs) the stock shocks will still be fine? I'm sure that replacing the 35 year old springs would help my ride quality as well.

Is there one brand of springs/spindles that's any better than the others?

It seems that that people talk highly of Western Chassis flip kits and extenders, Is that right?

Yes, you can use your current shocks, I did and they are perfect. Western Chassis has great components.

I did the WC 2.5" drop spindle and their 1" drop coil springs in the front.

In the rear I did the 5" flip kit, it will have your shock extenders and new perches, U bolts/hardware.

Youll need to grind/cut of your factory bump stop brackets and simply use a 1" bump stop in place of the factory bracket.

The 3.5/5 is a great everyday driving stance.

[SCOTI]

Another thing to consider.... The amount of drop for the rear will vary depending on what spring pack the truck has. Trucks w/fewer leafs (4-6) will yield less drop vs trucks w/HD leafs (8 leaf pack).

[Pulse_GTO]

I have the same tire and wheel size as you have in the front and a 2.5" spindle drop. My tires rub the fender lip with a decent bump in the road.

[SCOTI]

Backspacing affects things as well.

[Tom]

A 5/6 drop with 255/60/15's in front and 275/60/15's in back has been my go to standerd for almost 20yrs with 73-87's.