Restoration Cost?

[Saget]

I realize the magnitude of my request, but I have less time than money, and I’m hoping to get a ballpark estimate quickly of where I need to be in the future.

Bottom Line (BL): I’d like a rough estimate on how much a full restoration (like new, with a few customizations) of a 1973-1991-ish ¾ or 1 ton crew cab Chevy (preferably single rear wheel or mod to single from dually). I’m good with an estimate spreading $5K (example: $10-15K, $15-20K or whatever you think is appropriate)

I’m no spring chicken, so I understand some assumptions can have a wide span of cost like condition of initial/donor vehicles, used parts vs new parts, initial body condition, final paint detail and labor required.

Let’s assume I can find a decent inital vehicle (some light-ish labor for rust removal, yet no major body panel reconstruction required). I broke the following down of how I’d use it, attributes are more/less requirements, and desires are good to have but not deal breakers.

Uses:
• Daily Driver – (Quality restoration, picking this over a new truck from a dealer)
• Commuting ~40 miles total everyday for work.
• Carrying family and pets from Florida to Texas on vacation (interstate driving) multiple times a year.
• Pulling light trailer occasionally (no 5th wheels or heavy machinery)
• 80% highway, 20% offroad—no planned mudding or rock crawling

Attributes:
• Diesel Engine – Generally thinking 6bt, but suggestions are always welcome
• Cold Air conditioning: Don’t have it in my single cab K10, but family needs it
• I’d prefer K20 or K30 style, but using a C20 or C30 that I can convert late is acceptable (if substantially cheaper/quicker upfront)
• Prefer 33”-35” tires
o Willing to have narrower road-applicable tires vs all terrains or mud tires (if I need to hit the trails, I’ll consider purchasing some more aggressive tires)
• Suspension lift to appear “aggressive” but not excessive (4” maybe?)
o I’d like the ride to be smooth, yet not worry when hauling a trailer
o I’m willing to accept not going cutrate on this
o My K10 rides rough, which isn’t bad since I’m generally the only occupant, but if suspension packages exist that can smooth the ride (I’ve heard air bags can do this?) then I’d be willing to entertain a higher cost for this comfort/capability
• Able to cruise 75mph (my K10 with 250 Inline 6 cannot ☹)
• 20mpg or better (no trailer)—is this possible in the city or highway?!


Desires
• Cabin noise: I’d like it to be less than “loud” (not quite objective, I know). I’m fully aware of older diesel engine noise, but current K10’s engine noise is just that--noise. It’s not exhaust tones, but a mix of engine noise and road noise. I’d prefer sound dampened cabin and possibly sound dampened engine bay. I know I will have a diesel under the hood, I don’t need to advertise to those ½ mile away.
• Nice bumpers front/rear – prefer a pipe style setup that can hold a winch (winch not required in estimate)
• Paint: This is potentially a large cost. I want a durable coat, yet appearances I care nothing about. I’d like there to be 0% rust, but I’m here to impress no one. I’d prefer a clean body with a quality primer and matte paint. High quality, not high vis. The less attention my truck catches from folks outside this forum, the better—I enjoy parking my current truck wherever and not worrying about the shopping carts in parking lots!
• LED lights inside/out
• Updated interior. Prefer the seats in newer trucks (buckets in front/back, or the split bench with head rests on each side, with a middle seat belt)
• 2x fuel tanks or 1x large fuel tank (yes I’ve ran out of gas…personal fail(s))
• Dark window tint
• Sound system – this is a broad subject, but I don’t have a radio now, so either an average deck with 4x quality speakers and a small sub or accomodations where I can install later. I’d be happy with a hidden system, no deck visible.
• Headache rack with places to mount lights/antennas
- Transmission type is whatever is favorable for my type of uses. Currently love my manual, but wish i could have an OD. Wife will not drive a STD even though she knows how, but if there is a good quality auto for mileage and light towing, i'm not completely opposed to that.

[Saget]

Besides the entire Crew Cab Picture thread (thanks to everyone btw), below are just a few I snagged that inspired my desires.

[slotard]

How much do you have to spend? 2-3x that

20mpg in a lifted crew will be tricky, especially with old tech.

Regarding ride quality, you can get a much better ride with links and bags than with leafs. In a truck that size I'd absolutely go with at least a 1 ton front axle, so you'll need to swap that if you get a K20. Because of that, I'm not sure a K20 is any better a base than a C20 or C30. I think the 2wd trucks come with a steering box that works well for crossover steer, so they have some minor advantages. I'd look for the truck in the best condition.

Are you planning on keeping it stock length? CCLB is looooong but all crew squares are long bed. Cutting it down will add to cost.

I have no clue on parts/labor cost in FL so I can't really help you there.

[Saget]

Cost is always an issue (unless you're the fed gov). I have no idea what the end cost would be, so I figured I'd poll a more knowledgeable audience. I'm not stuck on one type of suspension, so that might be a case of cost vs ride quality if leafs/bags run really high $. I know the CCLBs are super long, but I think I'd rather keep it long for now. I can cut down later if I can't stand it. I figured leaving it stock would be simpler/cheaper, and I don't mind it...until i have to park it I'm sure--or I get transferred to a big city haha.

A new truck would cost me quite a chunk of change, so I figured if I could spend 50-75% of that and get exactly what I want, it'd be worth it vs. settling for a 'normal truck'...

Caveat: If primer is ok to finish a truck with, I'm ok spending $0 on paint. Function over form in this regard.

Saget

[chrismoore701]

Finishing my 7 year frame off. About $13,000

[chrismoore701]

Not including the purchase of the truck. Bought it in 94 for $2,000

[chrismoore701]

1979 stepside sport. 2 wheel drive lowered. 95% stock

[Diesel3+3]

I'm building the exact same truck as you are looking to build and I'll have $22,000 in it by the time I'm done and I'm doing some of the work myself and having a buddy do a bunch for cheap. I was lucky enough to find a project with a 12v cummins, NV4500 already in the truck and running for $6,500.

[Saget]

Thanks for the info! That really helps. I don't have a lot of time right now to work on it, but my neighbor restores classic cars. Not sure he has room for a rig this size, but was thinking he might be able to help me put an engine together to cut the cost of rebuilding one of those. There's a guy local that I might be able to convince to do the full truck, paid of course.

The initial and donor vehicles will be the hardest around here I think. Florida/Alabama are great places to find rusted out trucks...gotta sneak over to NM or AZ and get me one that is less rusty.

Gotta talk it over with SWMBO, but might work on saving for this in the short term while i shop for some deals. Once i get some cash together and maybe some parts collected, hopefully i can pull the trigger and hand it off to the knowledgeable folks to work the magic.

Anyone else got estimates?

Would you say your builds are highly reliable? With this kind of $$$ I need to swing some opinions away from having to go to a late model vehicle for full reliability.

[Diesel3+3]

In my personal experience get the truck first before you start collecting parts. If you change direction you'll have to unload parts.

The reason I am building this truck is because I didn't like the reliability of my new vehicle. I had an 08 Tundra purchased brand new and it was in and out of the dealer. This is all mechanical. Heavy duty, easier to work on, cheaper parts, I can get a manual, gets better mileage than gas motor and not as complicated as newer diesel motels and no emissions crap. And let's face it it's cooler driving an older vehicle. I'll have about 1/3 to a 1/2 of what a new diesel costs.

The cummins has 100k on it so I didn't bother rebuilding. Has a little rust but the frame was sandblasted and POR15 ed before I bought it. Finding clean doors fenders and hood. And some metal work. Swapping in single rear wheel axles

[chrismoore701]

First off. If your going to have it build. More than double my estimate of $13,000 to about $30,000. Second no mater what route you go. Set up a seperate bank account and put a little away each pay check. And move to the next phase when you have enough money

[Saget]

Good thinking. I got plenty of accounts--emergency, kid 1 college, kid 2 college, etc etc...$ gets thin spreading it all over, but you're right. Ain't gonna get done unless I put the cash aside somewhere 'safe'.

Copy all on the 13k-->30K. I don't mind working on it, it's what I'd rather be doing in life, but traveling for Uncle Sam don't leave much time to work on the fun things in life. Maybe I'll find some good parts/pieces, so I'll be ready when the time comes.

Thanks again for all the comments.

[Saget]

Thanks 3+3,

i'm on the lookout for a vehicle and cummins. I agree on the cost and complications of a new vehicle. My '81 K10 has seen it's share of hard times. About 18 months ago a loose fuel line ruined the Saturday outing I had with my little girl. WIth travels I had to have a local gentlemen rewire quite a bit under the hood. The neighbor still can't believe it's still running! Changed the water pump out last weekend and continued to feel like a hero compared to when I open the hood on my wife's van--YIKES!

I enjoy the older/simpler vehicles. Haven't owned a diesel, but have wanted one for 10+ years...maybe one day!

[tucsonjwt]

From people I know who have diesels, including Cummins 12 valve, 17 mpg is all you can expect in city driving, and slightly more on the highway. 17 mpg overall is what I hear from owners of Cummins, Duramax, or 7.3 Fords. I would not let gas mileage be your determining factor. I would focus more on getting a reliable vehicle. Also, diesel usually costs more than gas, so you really don't get the full mpg benefit of a diesel. Diesel costs about 15-20% more around here.

No matter how much you pay for an old truck, it will still need money to keep it in top shape. A 20-30 year old vehicle will just plain wear out and most everything will eventually need to be replaced.

I think you would be better off spending $20K on a late model crew cab with modern conveniences and safety features. A V8 gas engine crew cab of any make will get 15-17 mpg city and 20 mpg highway. Some crew cabs are 1/2 tons and should handle most tasks without a problem. If you will do heavy towing or load up a truck camper, then a dually is really what you should have.

[slotard]

I'd suggest looking for a truck to donate an engine too. I think any 4WD Dodge with a 12V will have a D60 front axle as well (although you'll need to make sure), not sure if it's the best D60 but it should be adequate. Of course you'll probably want to rebuild it... gear it how you want, e locker, redo the brakes, etc.

[Saget]

So, for a bit of back story, I currently have a single cab 81 K10 stepside. I love the body style and easy of maintenance. That's why i'd like to stick with this era vehicle. I would like a crew cab vehicle so I can carry the family and whatnot. I had a 6.0 silverado gasser years back and wished I'd bought a diesel... I currently get about 17 mpg right now, so if i get the same with more capability then I'm sold.

Maybe i'll get brave and take some pics of my current truck, but it's shameful since i haven't replaced the hood since the engine fire. It starts every morning, is paid for, and the mileage ain't bad...not too much to complain about there!

[old Rusty C10]

im in mine for over $20K for a single cab 350 gas truck

[gmachinz]

Another issue is the quickly evaporating NOS parts supply for these trucks. LMC does make some stuff-but there are a lot of things that are not available-and most people opt for the "billet" look which if everyone does-looks pretty boring after awhile and honestly, an NOS restored truck will always bring you more $$ down the road if you sell it. For what you'd like to do, I'd be on then hunt for an 1991 K20 Suburban with a 454/4L80E. You might not get 20 mpg BUT-it rides nice, is very comfy (with buckets), has plenty of power options, factory tinted glass, etc. Heck, I've thought about combining that truck with a 6.0/trans from a later model Denali and you'd have a killer 'Burban for much less than 30K. Suburban at most shouldn't hit you harder than 7-8K for a very nice one-2005 ish Denali for about 12K cash for a nice one with about 100K showing which leaves about 10K total to "make it all happen" so to speak. Come to think of it, I'd like a project of that build quality.....hmmm....

[Saget]

Haha, funny you mention the 'Burb! I brought it up to the wife and she didn't like the idea...On the other hand I do! Thanks for the data dump I'll look into it. I like the '91 model and I'll take a look at the engine/tranny options. I love this forum! I really don't care what it looks like, so custom parts vs. NOS, versus spray painted old parts doesn't hurt my self esteem...as long as they hold up. THe kicker is reliability. I don't plan on ever selling this vehicle. I've had my 81 since '99 and will sell it to my dad (so that I can send him some $ every now and then and he can keep it running for my 7 year old to get as his first vehicle). I'm looking for a cool truck that is dependable that i can drive for 15-20 years...or more hopefully. I doubt in 20-30 years people will be looking to restore a 2015 silverado with all the electrical parts and junk. that's why i'm trying to keep it retro...'91 is retro enough for me so i'll take a look.

Thanks again. Glad to have found this place.

[05duramaxhd]

I am about to build my 91 crew. NOS parts are very high right now. Also have a 88 gmc that I wanted to build but just don't have funds for both and keep my 79 lwb and 85 swb.

I was quoted 8500 just for paint on a rust free crew

[MTCK]

I'm doing something similar but with a gasser. Find a clean '91 crew. OD trans, fuel injection and the newest square you can get. 15-25k if you do most of the work yourself. Could be x2 if you farm it out. Recall the newest crew is 25 years old, so the wiring, break lines, and worn mechanical parts can nickel and dime you to death. The right truck to start with is the best money you can spend. Say no to rust.

[daddyjeep]

I'm doing the same build myself. I found an 85 Crew cab dually to start with. I was originally all over the diesel idea, but I am going the gas route. a 6.0 will be finding it's way into mine. The diesel is just going to cost so much more in the long run and the 6.0 is all the motor I will ever need to pull around my Jeep on the trailer or my smokers. Diesel vs gas gets pretty close to the same mpg and diesel fuel costs more so it is a no brainer for me.

[tucsonjwt]

6.0 vs 5.3 I think is a close call. The 5.3 will get better mpg. A Chevy commercial truck dealer in Phoenix advertises 10 mpg city, 12 mpg highway on new 3/4 ton Chevy pickups with a 6.0, and that is what contractors I have talked to get with those rigs. I actually get 11/13 mpg on my 83 C20 454, so the 6.0 is only better for the fuel injection reliability.

Unless you need the extra torque and pulling power of a 6.0, I would find a late model donor truck and use the 5.3 drive train and computer controls. A lot of forum members have done that. That tow/haul mode on late model GM transmissions works very well. I used that feature on a 2000 V6 automatic Silverado I had and it really helped with a bed full of lumber.

[gmachinz]

With a good tune you can still pick up a few mpg from a 6.0 motor. Not sure about weight being a factor but our '05 Denali XL with a 6.0 gets 16-17 mpg average. My '04 Tahoe 5.3 gets 18-19 average-I don't pay attention to city/highway estimates since they are both DD'ers. On a crewcab I'd venture to say its a toss up-a 6.0 wont have to work as hard to pull it-a 5.3 will.