Fitting a Dana 80?

[XGreen]

I have heard of a few guys putting Dana 80s in there C10s but I have never really seen some good pictures of the fit. Does anyone have details on this? What size u-bolts are used and are modifications needed to the trailing arms?
I have a 68' C10 Suburban and a dually Dana 80 I want to put in it.

Thanks

[kwmech]

Why a massive 80. I just put in a D70HD in a chassis I'm working on. That thing is pretty damn beef. An 80 is even more so

[XGreen]

Originally Posted by kwmech

Why a massive 80. I just put in a D70HD in a chassis I'm working on. That thing is pretty damn beef. An 80 is even more so

kwmech, I totally agree. It is huge but I have it. It will defiantly be a challenge but I think that's why we do this stuff. I think it will be pretty cool but it my just be my delusion, haha.

Is the D70HD a 4" axle tube? What size U-bolts did you use?

Thanks for the response by the way.

[kwmech]

I had to have the u-bolts made for the leaf spring pack I am using

[XGreen]

Originally Posted by kwmech

I had to have the u-bolts made for the leaf spring pack I am using

Oh, Ok. I am talking about a trailing arm set up

[cleszkie]

If you want beef, why not a 14 Bolt? They are a dime a dozen, cheap, lighter than a D80, have a lot of aftermarket support (gearing), and much easier to adapt to our trucks. I put one in the rear of my Blazer. Doesn't seem like the installation of the D80 will be worth the effort. But hey, its your project! Just be sure to post up pictures!

[j_cst_10]

One thing to consider is the added unsprung weight of the Dana 80. Typically wouldn't be an issue with a leaf spring truck but those light duty coils might need to be beefed up to keep the rear end in control.

[XGreen]

Originally Posted by j_cst_10

One thing to consider is the added unsprung weight of the Dana 80. Typically wouldn't be an issue with a leaf spring truck but those light duty coils might need to be beefed up to keep the rear end in control.

Thanks for that piece of advice. I was wondering about that and it is nice to hear someone else bring that up. My plan is to get heavy duty drop springs and use No Limits shock relocation kit with $$$ nice new shocks.

Does that sound like the right idea? All suggestions and advice helps. I appreciate it.

[j_cst_10]

I am definitely no expert in that field but I think you may have an issue only because you are probably adding at least an extra 150 lbs if not more (much larger drums, 4 rims and tires, that heavy drum hub assembly that slides over the axle tubes, etc).

Buy the heaviest duty crap you can stuff under there and see what happens. I have a leaf spring rear 72 C20 and I though about putting a narrowed dually set up under it at some point so this is kind of cool with the burb.

[Ol Blue K20]

Are you planning on narrowing the differential or adding step fenders?

[XGreen]

Originally Posted by Ol Blue K20

Are you planning on narrowing the differential or adding step fenders?

I am going to add dually fenders. Measuring, I will need at least 6" fenders. My plan is to get this all driving by Julyish so it is not going to be pretty. After its driving and reliable I may make the body pretty. But for now my story is "RatRod".

[XGreen]

Does anyone know what the wall thickness of the Dana 80 axle tube is?

[cleszkie]

Your local law enforcement may not look favorably on the open wheel concept with the outer tires protruding completely beyond the fenders. You may have to fab up the dually fenders sooner than you think. Just something to consider.

[kehstr]

Originally Posted by cleszkie

Your local law enforcement may not look favorably on the open wheel concept with the outer tires protruding completely beyond the fenders. You may have to fab up the dually fenders sooner than you think. Just something to consider.

agreed 100%

[kehstr]

Dana 80 tubes are 3 5/8 inches in diameter and 9/16 inch thick

[XGreen]

Originally Posted by kehstr

Dana 80 tubes are 3 5/8 inches in diameter and 9/16 inch thick

Thank you. That is exactly that I was wondering.

[XGreen]

Originally Posted by cleszkie

Your local law enforcement may not look favorably on the open wheel concept with the outer tires protruding completely beyond the fenders. You may have to fab up the dually fenders sooner than you think. Just something to consider.

Yes, of course. Good point. I will not be driving it without fenders. I think I need marker lights as well.

[Alex V.]

You do realize a D80 is way overkill for that C10, right? Sure, it'll look cool, but it seems like a lot of effort to have an axle that the rest of the chassis can't possibly match in load capability. I could see a 14 bolt, but even so the HD 1/2 ton axle in these years was a D60 if I'm not mistaken. That's what I have in my '67 C10 and it's been overhauled once in 330,000 miles of towing, hauling, long tripping, etc. Dad's '86 K20 has a semi-float 14 bolt that's seen the GVW exceeded more times than I could count over its 361,000 miles and AFAIK it's never been apart. I like full-floating axles as much as the next guy (have a FF 14 bolt in my '85 C3500) but based on the vehicles I've spent years with/around with semi-floating axles there's really no need unless they're being used in such capacity as would warrant a heavy duty 3/4 ton or 1-ton running gear.

[XGreen]

Originally Posted by Alex V.

You do realize a D80 is way overkill for that C10, right? Sure, it'll look cool, but it seems like a lot of effort to have an axle that the rest of the chassis can't possibly match in load capability. I could see a 14 bolt, but even so the HD 1/2 ton axle in these years was a D60 if I'm not mistaken. That's what I have in my '67 C10 and it's been overhauled once in 330,000 miles of towing, hauling, long tripping, etc. Dad's '86 K20 has a semi-float 14 bolt that's seen the GVW exceeded more times than I could count over its 361,000 miles and AFAIK it's never been apart. I like full-floating axles as much as the next guy (have a FF 14 bolt in my '85 C3500) but based on the vehicles I've spent years with/around with semi-floating axles there's really no need unless they're being used in such capacity as would warrant a heavy duty 3/4 ton or 1-ton running gear.

I'm not going to disagree with anything you said. I know how dumb this my be but it is a fun experiment I am trying. I have a 68' C10 Suburban and a 96' RAM 3500. trying to make them into one. If it turns out to be a flop I will just have to do something different. But in the mean time I will keep chugging along with this. I got beefy springs , good shocks, beefing up the frame a fair amount with some boxing and x-bracing and the front end will match.

What I am looking for is anyone's advice/help on how to make it work.

[Alex V.]

In spite of the impracticality, I get it. Have you sized up the Ram chassis and weighed the merits of just putting it under the 'Burb body with a big honkin' 502 or 8.1/4L80 combo, or something along those lines?

[XGreen]

I thought of that. the frame of the RAM is quite a bit wider and the wheel base is much longer so I would have to do significant frame mods either way. I just figured this way might be the rout to go. It will save me some body mods and I really wanted the training arm rear suspension. the whole drive line (Cummins 12v & 6-speed) of the RAM is going in the C10 too as well as the front cross member (disc brakes, power steering, IFS, 8-Lug).

[drfloyd]

+1. I was about to suggest the same thing.

[Alex V.]

Sound logic, I'm sure. On a 2WD I'd want trailing arm suspension, too. I assume this means an 8-lug conversion, too? Wish I was closer so I could snap up your wheels.

[XGreen]

Originally Posted by Alex V.

Sound logic, I'm sure. On a 2WD I'd want trailing arm suspension, too. I assume this means an 8-lug conversion, too? Wish I was closer so I could snap up your wheels.

That is an affirmative on the 8-lugs. Front and back.

[Cali72K20]

These are on a local CL listing, never seen these style helper springs before or if they will help your build.

Good luck on your project!

http://santamaria.craigslist.org/pts/5560322142.html

Casey