1406 eldelbrock carb

[Hotdog]

Hello I'm a newbie. Needing some help pretty please.
1971 c-10 pick up. Motor is a 350 sbc 14010207 year 1980-1985. Heads are 3917291 camel hump 1.6/1.94. Rebuilt.
Intake is the eldelbrock performance RPM. New 1406 600cfm electric choke eldelbrock carburetor. New HEI msd street fire 8362, new plug wire I made made my self and check with ohm meter. Hope there good. new camshaft is a jegs part#200004. 282/282. New lifters, push rods and rocker arms. 1.5. Th350c transmission. Been haggling with it for a year now. I have a 2 yrs old son as to why it takes a while he won't let me out of sight lol Everything else is original. 40 hg on vacuum. Timing set at 16/18. Plugged or cap off no difference in vacuum advance.
I adjusted timing and carburetor with vacuum gage. To the highest reading.
Fuel regulator set at 5.5. Fires right up.
I had a leak at passenger exhaust. Put a new one on, Canceled that sound Now it sounds like my lifters are knocking on passenger side. Readjusted lifters no difference. spark plugs are black soot all 8.
Carburetor is new and no upgrades. 1/2" spacer.
I'm running rich and regardless of speed it Boggs out real bad. At first drives good if I let off of pedal and slightly or hard push the pedal is when it Boggs out comes back when I stop and it's good again. tried different accelerator holes. If I put in the middle the idle adjuster screw is out all the way and idling at 1000-1200 rpms. I've swapped out step up springs no difference. I readjusted floats to there spec (7/16/15/16). Cleaned carb screens were filthy and installed an inline fuel filter from tank to fuel pump. And 1 between pump and carb. Been through 3 sets of plugs. 44t and now I got in 45ts gap at 45". Now I've tried new accelerator pump. And put in bigger needle and seat assemble tried bottom hole did not run rich to bad. Drove around the block did good for a minute and came back. If i put in the middle hole feels like it has more power but Boggs and runs a bit rich. Plus the idle screw is all the way out. Idling at 1000. In gear around 700rpms. If put in the top hole then it dies on me unless I ease into the pedal. Haven't tried metering rods or jets simply cause I can't grasp the concept and As well as people say the 1406 is lean out of the box purchase it of eBay. Please please someone help me.
Sent from my iPhone

[Wrenchbender Ret]

That's a tough one. I take it the choke is heating up & opening & drops down off fast idle.

[Hotdog]

Originally Posted by Wrenchbender Ret

That's a tough one. I take it the choke is heating up & opening & drops down off fast idle.

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[Hotdog]

Originally Posted by Hotdog

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How should I go about correcting that. I tried adjusting the choke the lines are not aligned with each other and I have the fast idle screw back off.
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[swamp rat]

Put the accelerator link rod in the hole closest to the pivot point on the arm, it will give the accelerator piston a longer stroke which equals more gas.

If any adjustment raises the idle then readjust it with the idle screw, make sire the air/fuel screws are about 2-2 1/2 turns out from lightly seated.

If the idle screw is backed out all the way and it still idles high ether your choke may be way out of adjustment or there is a linkage rod that needs to be bent to correct an adjustment.

Go to Edelbrock and find the PDF for setting these carbs up if you don't have the booklet.

EDIT: I forgot, there is also a choke high idle screw that rest on that step linkage, make sure when the choke is off that its not affecting the idle speed, it only comes into play when you step on the pedal before cold start up and usually on the first step then it should be set to achieve 12/1300 rpm.

[Hotdog]

Originally Posted by swamp rat

Put the accelerator link rod in the hole closest to the pivot point on the arm, it will give the accelerator piston a longer stroke which equals more gas.

If any adjustment raises the idle then readjust it with the idle screw, make sire the air/fuel screws are about 2-2 1/2 turns out from lightly seated.

If the idle screw is backed out all the way and it still idles high ether your choke may be way out of adjustment or there is a linkage rod that needs to be bent to correct an adjustment.

Go to Edelbrock and find the PDF for setting these carbs up if you don't have the booklet.

EDIT: I forgot, there is also a choke high idle screw that rest on that step linkage, make sure when the choke is off that its not affecting the idle speed, it only comes into play when you step on the pedal before cold start up and usually on the first step then it should be set to achieve 12/1300 rpm.

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[Hotdog]

Originally Posted by Hotdog

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Yes I have the pdf file down loaded on the phone I must of have read it and watch the videos numerous time. I took a long hard look at the linkage and see where it might be hanging up on or appears to be, the Choke/cam connector rod I'll give it a bending and see what happens and get back with you. thank you guys for all the help. Much appreciated!
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[Wrenchbender Ret]

Do you have a wire going to the choke that is hot with the key on? The other term on the choke coil should be grounded. After running a few minutes the choke should open up & the fast idle drop down off the cam. If this is a new carb. you shouldn't have to bend any links. You may have a vacuum leak somewhere causeing high idle speed & no response to the idle adjustments.

[cleszkie]

Originally Posted by Wrenchbender Ret

You may have a vacuum leak somewhere causeing high idle speed & no response to the idle adjustments.

I agree with this statement.

If you are running an auto tranny, check that you don't have a vacuum leak in the line that runs between your intake manifold vacuum port and vacuum modulator on the back of the tranny housing. Also check that no ATF is being sucked through the vacuum modulator into your intake manifold. Both of these things are often overlooked when people are trying to find vacuum leaks. If you do find ATF in the modulator, replace it. Good luck.

[toolboxchev]

40 hg of vacuum? Lets all chime in here and see if we have mis-information first. That is a tremendous amount of vac I have not ever heard of anyone accomplishing this.

I am thinking your vac gauge is broken. Get to the root of the problem first. Quality diagnostic tools that are reliable are an asset when problem solving.

[Hotdog]

Originally Posted by cleszkie

I agree with this statement.

If you are running an auto tranny, check that you don't have a vacuum leak in the line that runs between your intake manifold vacuum port and vacuum modulator on the back of the tranny housing. Also check that no ATF is being sucked through the vacuum modulator into your intake manifold. Both of these things are often overlooked when people are trying to find vacuum leaks. If you do find ATF in the modulator, replace it. Good luck.

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[Hotdog]

Yes I have the hot wire running to fuse panel for when ignition on and the ground connecting to a grounded source on fire wall.
It's a new vacuum gauge from harbor freight but I tested it on a vacuum pump(one that vacuums ac lines down) it pulled the required amount the pump called for. I believe it could get more vacuum but the distributor vacuum canister won't turn no more due to the intake. I'll double check the mod its new on Traine at once it did leak but I got it to seal up I'll double check for oil n leaks.
I will check to see if choke is opening up tomorrow morning will be my next chance and get back with you guys thanks!
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[bowtie72]

It sounds like to me it is rich. If the plugs are black it is to much fuel. I have tuned a couple of these. They come with 98 & 95 jets or close to there. I had to jet both down to 83 & 85. I am at 7k feet above sea level. I would start with jets and metering rods.

[rotten67]

the vacuum reading has to be wrong it's impossible to have that much. Are you talking about 18 degrees initial timing? Sounds like a lot something is way off .how much voltage is available to that new ignition system?

[Hotdog]

Originally Posted by rotten67

the vacuum reading has to be wrong it's impossible to have that much. Are you talking about 18 degrees initial timing? Sounds like a lot something is way off .how much voltage is available to that new ignition system?

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[Hotdog]

Originally Posted by Hotdog

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Yes sir, 18 degrees intial timing I was freaked about the vacuum to that's why I tested on a vacuum pump. Rubbed the eyes a few times. At my work there was a maintenance man who use to own mechanic shop and I told him about it he said that's good means you have a good tight engine and said he seen more I was still freaked. But he transferred to other faculty and visited the other day only thing he said to me was buy a Holley or convert it to mechanical choke. And walked away ... Don't want to do that.
The voltage I'm not sure I can google unless there a method for checking it. Thank you
Best regards
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[Hotdog]

Would it be possible for the torque converter to do this for it being weak??? I ask because it had a radical cam in it. With 7 hg but had a Rochester on it 750cfm when I finally got it to idle with out dieing it would not go forward,hard to shift gears until I put a new Traine module in and a guy who help me said bad converter or new carb. Come to find out I had a bad lifter. I got new lifters, rods and rocker with new timing chain and camshaft of coarse carb. and here I am. lol. Not really.
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[Ironangel]

You've got more than just carb issues...No way is that motor pulling 40 inches of vacuum. Take your questions to the experts in the "Engine & Drive-train" section and post the specifics to that cam and know where your timing is set, that will be their first questions.

[Hotdog]

Originally Posted by Ironangel

You've got more than just carb issues...No way is that motor pulling 40 inches of vacuum. Take your questions to the experts in the "Engine & Drive-train" section and post the specifics to that cam and know where your timing is set, that will be their first questions.

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[toolboxchev]

If indeed it pulling that much vacuum, that motor would have to be super tight, too tight. That might explain why it dies when you step on it.

Over to the real engine guys.

[Hotdog]

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[Hotdog]

Lol, thanks toolbox, I don't like redoing leaking gaskets. So for each one I did I used a thin film of silicone snug them waited 15min torqued them. And gave them 3 days to cure. Hoping to be good but now ?? All but the thing Traine pan. Done it 3 times got a new pan on 4th and the dang thing still leaks. I'll forward the message with cam specs and timing like you guys said. Much appreciated and thank you guys!
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