Axle swap questions

[Outbackfarmer]

I have a 68 K10 with drums and poor turning radius. First order of business is to get this monster to stop. Looks like the easiest way to do this is to swap axles and get disc brakes and improved turning radius. I need to know what axles will simple bolt in. I know I may have to worry about gear ratios. I have not checked to see what ratio is in the K10 now. I am having some transmission work done, and will be a week or so before I can check.
I have read several threads, but the more I read the more confused I become. Most say it is a simple bolt in, then some say modify the shock brackets, then some are modify the spring brackets, or both. What I would like to do is by a suburban and use the front axle out of it then turn the cabin into an enclosed trailer. What year suburban axle would work best? Some show 71-87 others say 71-91. Just need a little guidance on this.

[andrewmp6]

If your set on a suburban 73-91 will work and be the cheapest for you to buy.Or any 1/2 ton 4x4 73-87 truck front axle will work also.

[special-K]

Nice truck. Yep, any '71-up GM leaf spring front axle will be disc brake/open knuckle and bolt right in. Do you have the original manual steering still? You can swap all that over from the Suburban, too. Is your steering column 1pc to the steering box? Or, is it the later collapsing 2pc shaft with rag-joint in it?

[Outbackfarmer]

It does have power steering. Not sure on the steering colimn. Will check when I get it back from the shop.
The newer axle I assume will be a 5 lug, so the wheels on it will no longer fit. If that is the case and I have to change wheels, that's fine want a different style anyway. But what about the rear axle? If I want the lugs to match and get wheels the same for looks and rotating purposes what are my options there? Will the rear axle swap out of a 71-91 too? Is there an easy way to keep the front 6 lug and not mess with the rear?
The k10 is an automatic, I am guessing it has 373 gears. Any ideal what gears where available in 1/2 ton 4x4 suburbans? Be great if I could find one that the gear ratios were 373 or lower (411).
Old mid 80s suburban are redily available and cheap in my area, just want to make sure I get a year model that will have the most workable parts.

['63GENIII]

Should still be 6 lug just like you have now.

[special-K]

Yeah, all these GM axles mentioned will have 6-lugs. 2wd 1/2t went from 6-lug to 5-lug with disc brakes, but 4wds stay 6-lug. Your truck has other modern updates like the automatic and power steering.

[Outbackfarmer]

Great, so there would really be no reason to change the rear axle. Unless I wanted to change ratios it would be a waste of time to change the rear axle?

Say the donor had more desirable gearing and wanted the ratio out of it, would it be easier to swap the gears or the whole rear axle?

What other brake parts will I need off the donor?

[andrewmp6]

Unless you got a eaton rear end that needs work i would keep what you got as long as both axles have the same ratio in them.To swap the rear axle you would have to cut off the spring perches and shock mounts then re weld them on to match your trucks.If both axles are the same you could swap gears but i wouldn't since the donor could be 30 plus years old.If im gonna open up a diff im replacing everything new and maybe get a locker if you want one.

[special-K]

Hopefully you will have the same ratio in the new axle set. If you end up needing to change the rear axle to match ratios, adapting the newer rear will be the least technical. Although, getting the spring pads mounted at the correct angle is important. Not all that hard since you can mark where they sit before removing. If all is good with axle ratios, the complete rear brakes could be swapped to the older axles, if there is a significant difference in the newer brakes.

[Outbackfarmer]

I have found this 89 suburban V1500 that is complete and clean has front end damage, but the axle appears to be fine. Looks like the tie rod is bent, but I assume I can use the tie rod off the 68. If not tie rod ends are available and inexpensive. The rest of it looks very clean 129000 miles. They are supposed to get the gear ratio to me today. I haven't made a deal on it, but think 700 or so will buy it. If it has 373 or 411 gears probably try to make a deal on it. What do you guys think of this for a donor axle? Then I can strip the cabin and turn the back into a trailer.

[74CustomK20]

It will have a corporate 10 bolt. Common and strong up to about 37's. I'm turning 44's with mine all stock, but I don't beat on it. If you buy It could sell the excess on the parts forum and recoup a good bit of change... 10 bolts are good axles.

[Outbackfarmer]

If the gears out of the donor are more desirable, will the rear axle simple bolt up? Or will it be easier just to swap them?

[Jeff's bowtie's]

As Tim (special K) said on 73 and up you'll have to relocate the spring Perch's and by the way nice truck

[Outbackfarmer]

Originally Posted by Jeff's bowtie's

As Tim (special K) said on 73 and up you'll have to relocate the spring Perch's and by the way nice truck

I missed SK's post above. I look like a real dumb a$$.... Got it now.

[andrewmp6]

Even the interior on that burb looks nice you could part that out and make your money back maybe.

[mike16]

look closely at the open knuckle set up. the upper ball joint looks like its bent inward. and the angle of that frontire...... based on observations of your pictures supplied.... just look it over carfully. otherwise its a really nice ride to part out.

[special-K]

I'd be a bit concerned on the condition of that axle. That was a hard hit. If the tie-rod bent so close to the knuckle, I'd look for a bent arm on that.

[First c10]

OBF
I am doing this same conversion on my sons 68 k10. I got my parts from a 1990 v1500. As I didn't want to take any chances I rebuilt the axle, bearing, hubs, seals, brakes etc. I ordered all the tie rod ends and steering components from the 90' burb. Stronger then the 68' stuff my opinion. I am also installing a new column and collapsible column shaft. You will need new front leaf Spring ubolts and top plates as the axle tube size of the 68 is 2-3/4" and the later models are 3". You can use the frame plates and adapt the swaybar from the burb.
If you check out my builds threads (link in my signature) you can see what I did and doing.
Good luck. But this is a great upgrade to do to a 4x4. Especially if you have a closed knuckle drum front end.
Nice truck also. I am building a 70 with a 67/68 front end with a cowl hood. Scott

Edit: Of course as long as you axle is good from this burb.
The 90' burb I used had 3.73 gears which matched my sons 68. I did double check them by opening up the diff and checking the markings on the ring gear. I bought my steering parts from Rockauto cheapest I could find.
So my sons 68 will have '90 axle and steering components in it. I did remove the auto locking hubs for a set of Mile Markers.

[msgross]

You need to match the gear ratio to your rear, easier to visit the junkyard and pay $100-$150 for a complete axle that will bolt in.

I installed a corp 10 bolt in my 68... You can also use the sway bar from a donor but will take mods to mount it to your frame.

[60sIron]

I believe the open knuckle disc brake 44 is wider. Not by much, but wider. I personally don't like the look. I'll be doing the disc brake swap on my closed knuckle 44 this summer. Turning radius has never been a problem. I would be interested in how much tighter open is.