Do I need to adjust my bell crank bracket?

[64stpside]

Well, I found out why my clutch was so hard to push, some one had a bolt in the block, then slid the bell crank on it!!!! So, I ordered a new bell crank, nylon inserts and new ball studs. When I went to install the new bell crank, it's too narrow. To get the frame side ball stud to attach to the bracket, it pulls the other end out past the washer on the block side ball stud.
I think someone has messed with the frame bracket OR this truck was a auto that was converted to manual and they have the frame bracket too far away from the bell crank stud. I need some pics and measurements of a frame bracket on you guys trucks to compare to. Oh, I have a 64 stepside with a 1977 305 and a 3 speed.
Here's mine:

[jtrichard]

The front bolt on your frame bracket looks to be too far to the out side of the frame flange look here at post #8 http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=587344

[padresag]

that front bolt should be in the centre of the frame. has the eng been moved forward for HEI clearance or whatever.
looks like there has been a alteration to the frame under the front of the zbar mount.
lots of things happen to these trucks over the years esp. by people that have no clue as to what they are doing.
ron

[64stpside]

Originally Posted by padresag

that front bolt should be in the centre of the frame. has the eng been moved forward for HEI clearance or whatever.
looks like there has been a alteration to the frame under the front of the zbar mount.
lots of things happen to these trucks over the years esp. by people that have no clue as to what they are doing.
ron

Not sure about if the engine had been moved forward, it did have a HEI in it when I got it. Yes, there are cutting wheel marks/grooves under that front bolt of the frame bracket. And YES.....people have no clue as to what they are doing!!
You have NO idea what brainless repairs I've had to undo so far to this poor truck. My wife tells me to quit fixing stuff because I keep finding other things wrong along the way....lol.
How about:
There was ORANGE extension cord going from the ign switch to the battery & starter and also used a extension cord to run the tail lights.

The ignition-on wire on the radio was wired straight to the battery.

The radiator was in the v8 position up by the core support, but used the 6 cylinder upper radiator hold down to hold the radiator down which made the top of the radiator pitch forward towards the engine (no shroud & no cooling)

Oh, how about using jb weld to try to seal a 14 in section of the radiator where the tank meets the cores.

And then there is, lets use a piece of hose stuck on the back side of the fuel sending unit where the float was missing completely to get the gas out of the tank.

How about using the wrong door weather strips.......INVERTED!!!!! to try to seal the doors.....lol

BUT.....the body is in really good shape from what I can tell, it's been a southern truck all it's life so I took a chance. I need to post some pics to show how far it's come, she looks A LOT better now.

[jtrichard]

After looking at your pic again it looks like two rivets and imprints where the bracket was originally forward of where it is now ........ padresag your right someone that should not own wrenches has been under the hood.....

Need to move ball stud to front hole in block and frame bracket to ORG location , get long clutch push rod and reshape upper clutch rod back to ORG shape

[padresag]

Originally Posted by jtrichard

After looking at your pic again it looks like two rivets and imprints where the bracket was originally forward of where it is now ........ padresag your right someone that should not own wrenches has been under the hood

see what has happened now. some 307 were not drilled and tapped for a zbar(a/trans) someone has mounted it in the threaded boss on top of the oil filter.
you will see a blank protrusion in the block about 3 or 4" towards the front That will have to be drilled and threaded to take the ball stud
some people shouldn't have been born
ron

[64stpside]

Originally Posted by padresag

you will see a blank protrusion in the block about 3 or 4" towards the front That will have to be drilled and threaded to take the ball stud
ron

Should my setup be exactly like the one in the 2nd pic(orange engine) of post #1 ?
or are talking about tapping and drilling the flat spot just in front of the oil filter?
http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=587344

[jtrichard]

Originally Posted by 64stpside

should my setup be exactly like the one in the 2nd pic(orange engine) of post #1 ?
Or are talking about tapping and drilling the flat spot just in front of the oil filter?
http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=587344

yes just like the #2 pic in post #!

[padresag]

Originally Posted by jtrichard

yes

what are you saying yes to; the flat spot just in front of the oil filter or the one at the dipstick?
ron

[padresag]

it should go in the threaded hole just below the dipstick. some engines that hole was not drilled. if you do not have that hole there then you must drill and tap to accept the ball stud
ron

[jtrichard]

OPPS the hole at the dipstick just like the pic

[64stpside]

Well, I took the bracket off and set it on the 2 studs that were left where the idiot cut it off and when I looked through the hole in the bracket, everything lined up. You can see the carnage the guy did to the frame as well.....
I will have to drill and tap a hole. I work at a chevrolet dealership and was told to start the hole small and work my way up. Any tips for getting the hole drilled straight? Especially when doing the the tap....

What size tap do I need?

Thanks for your help guys

[padresag]

your bracket looks a little spread open at the top; also check it for cracks. if you take off that little sheet metal that bolts on around the steering column; that may give you some more room. just tap it the same thread that is on the ball stud. don't drill to far.
ron

[jtrichard]

When the A-hole pried the bracket off the rivets he bent it up and spread the slot open ... As for straight taping get a square socket that fits the tap and the longest extension for your ratchet (like 18" or more) and you should have great control to get it straight

[64stpside]

What size tap? I have been looking around the net for others who have needed to drill and tap a gm block and I saw someone say it's a 1/2-13

[jtrichard]

I would think it is 1/2" NC 13 ......take the ball stud you have to parts store or hardware and double check

[Captainfab]

Yes I believe it is 1/2-13. I like to use plug taps. They are a little easier for me to get started straight since they have 4 flutes. Plus you will get full threads closer to the bottom of the hole than with a standard starting tap. If you use a starting tap, you will also need a bottom tap to get full threads closer to the bottom of the hole.