Need Axle Seats For a 4" axle Tube. Please Help!

[XGreen]

Hello all. I am in the middle of putting a Dana80 in my 68 C10 and could use some help. I need to either make or buy axle seats for the 4" axle tube of the Dana80. Right now I am in the process of modifying the trailing arms to except the larger U-bolts. Any suggestions? What is the angle that the seats sit on the tube? What is the spacing from center of the seats? Thanks in advance for any and all suggestions.

[kehstr]

I think what you are currently doing with the trailing arms is perfect. I love the idea of cutting them, and then making them stronger where the u-bolts go through, rather than how they were from the factory. One thing you should make sure that you do with the trailing arms before you even bolt them up to the axle, is beef them up one way or another, because we all know that once you get a d80 you are going to want to beat this rig a little bit more than you did before. (whether on purpose or not, it will happen) The way I would go about making them stronger is welding the 2 pieces of c channel steel together about ever 4-6 inches with a 4-6 inch seem. Then build a piece of steel to go on the outside of both of the c channel pieces, and if you can, I would dimple die them.

Typically what I have done when it comes to welding on the perch that the u-bolts come through (or spring perches for a leaf spring truck), is get it eyeballed where you think the pinion angle should be, put a couple good tacks to hold the 2 together, then take an angle gauge and check it to fine toon it exactly how you want the pinion angle to be.

One problem you are going to run into is shock mounts. The factory c10 mounts are not going to even come close to working. The factory dodge mounts will not work either unless you want to modify the mounts on the frame. The way I would go about making them work is just buying some universal shock mounts that you can buy from almost any suspension specialist, and putting them in a spot so that you can use the factory frame mounts.

Here is a website for an idea of what you can use for shock mounts
http://www.polyperformance.com/Syner...g94RoCFMDw_wcB

[XGreen]

Originally Posted by kehstr

I think what you are currently doing with the trailing arms is perfect. I love the idea of cutting them, and then making them stronger where the u-bolts go through, rather than how they were from the factory. One thing you should make sure that you do with the trailing arms before you even bolt them up to the axle, is beef them up one way or another, because we all know that once you get a d80 you are going to want to beat this rig a little bit more than you did before. (whether on purpose or not, it will happen) The way I would go about making them stronger is welding the 2 pieces of c channel steel together about ever 4-6 inches with a 4-6 inch seem. Then build a piece of steel to go on the outside of both of the c channel pieces, and if you can, I would dimple die them.

Typically what I have done when it comes to welding on the perch that the u-bolts come through (or spring perches for a leaf spring truck), is get it eyeballed where you think the pinion angle should be, put a couple good tacks to hold the 2 together, then take an angle gauge and check it to fine toon it exactly how you want the pinion angle to be.

One problem you are going to run into is shock mounts. The factory c10 mounts are not going to even come close to working. The factory dodge mounts will not work either unless you want to modify the mounts on the frame. The way I would go about making them work is just buying some universal shock mounts that you can buy from almost any suspension specialist, and putting them in a spot so that you can use the factory frame mounts.

Here is a website for an idea of what you can use for shock mounts
http://www.polyperformance.com/Syner...g94RoCFMDw_wcB

Thanks for all the input. That I very helpful. For the shock location I actually ordered the NoLimit shock relocation kit that will move the shocks to behind the axle and attache to the bottom of the trailing arms. I also got their Pan Hard Bar set up. And of course I will have to "tweak" that all to work with the larger u-bolts.

What I have now on the trailing arm is the "H" I made with plate on top and bottom with pipe vertical for the bolts to pass though. I was wandering about boxing some in like you mentioned, i am glad you said that. Or just filling in the gaps. But I think I will do what you suggested and box some in. I was thinking of at lest going from in front of the spring back. I do not know how to "dimple die" plate though. I always wondered how I could do that.

My biggest conundrum now is how I will get the right angle/ovule hole in the axle seats. I guess I can just cut off set squares form square stock and fill in the gaps when I get them on the axle. as for setting the correct pinion angle I was just going to bolt it all up "dry fit", then tack them where I want them. then disassemble and finish welding.

[kehstr]

after looking I realize you have already stitched the 2 c channel pieces together, ignore that part of what i said above

[kehstr]

I would box everything in now while you have it apart, and make it as strong as you can, that way you don't have to worry about it later on. To dimple die you have to have the special dimple dying sets, which are normally pretty pricey, so if you don't have the budget to get them I wouldn't worry about it. Then also I'm not sure what you mean by axle seats? Other than that you on the right track!!

[XGreen]

Originally Posted by kehstr

I would box everything in now while you have it apart, and make it as strong as you can, that way you don't have to worry about it later on. To dimple die you have to have the special dimple dying sets, which are normally pretty pricey, so if you don't have the budget to get them I wouldn't worry about it. Then also I'm not sure what you mean by axle seats? Other than that you on the right track!!

Thanks. Axle seats are the flat section attached to the axle tube that sits on the trailing arm or on a leaf spring in a leaf spring application.

[Cali72K20]

Something like this, spring perch:

http://www.ebay.com/itm/like/4006247...&ul_noapp=true

https://www.ruffstuffspecialties.com/catalog/DODGE.html

[XGreen]

Originally Posted by Cali72K20

Something like this, spring perch:

http://www.ebay.com/itm/like/4006247...&ul_noapp=true

https://www.ruffstuffspecialties.com/catalog/DODGE.html

That is just what I am looking for but for a trailing arm application with an off set for the angle of the trailing arm. Maybe I can give RuffStuff a call and see if they can help. Thanks for the links.

[Cali72K20]

aftermarket tubular arms are a lot stronger, depending on your budget:

https://www.google.com/search?q=67-7...Hc3vCpwQsAQIUg

[Cali72K20]

here is a good write from another member:

http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=624445

[XGreen]

Well, I just went for it and made some. Not the prettiest things but I hope they work out.

Made some 2" drop blocks too.

[kehstr]

they aren't the prettiest right now, but give a little bit of time for clean up and put them on the axle and they will be just fine, and probably look factory if you do it right

[XGreen]

Originally Posted by kehstr

they aren't the prettiest right now, but give a little bit of time for clean up and put them on the axle and they will be just fine, and probably look factory if you do it right

Thanks! That is what I am hoping.

[XGreen]

Does anyone know what the distance is from u-bolt/seat to u-bolt/seat? I want to make sure I get these axle seats lined up right.

[Ironangel]

Need to PM Captainfab...He made me a set that are second to none for a very reasonable price. http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/member.php?u=30278

[Ironangel]

Originally Posted by XGreen

Does anyone know what the distance is from u-bolt/seat to u-bolt/seat? I want to make sure I get these axle seats lined up right.

Can you mock them up on the trailing arms with the axle rotated in the correct pinion angle, and then tack them? That way you not only get your width correct, you get your (very important) "pinion angle" correct as well...~Ghostrider~

[XGreen]

Originally Posted by Ironangel

Can you mock them up on the trailing arms with the axle rotated in the correct pinion angle, and then tack them? That way you not only get your width correct, you get your (very important) "pinion angle" correct as well...~Ghostrider~

Yes. I will be doing that to set the pinion angle and I will make sure the seats are evenly spaced from the center but I want to make sure the trailing arms will not be set too narrow of too wide on the axle so that it would create a slight bind at the bushing.

Does anyone have the overall spacing of the trailing arms on the axle?