Gaskets - The 1947 - Present Chevrolet & GMC Truck Message Board Network

lukecp · 03-29-2002, 10:24 AM

What is the best selant to make gaskets stay sealed longer? I have heard several different methods, from using no selant at all, to covering both sides of the gaskets in selant, or just putting a bead on one side. Usually, i give both sides of the gakets a light coat of Permatex blue RTV selant. It has worked pretty good in the past, but i did it on some valve cover gaskets and they leaked even worse about 2 months later. What kind of selant should i use? Red, black, or blue?

------------------
Lucas

"Another proud owner of one of the coolest trucks ever built"

drop_shift@hotmail.com

My Daily-Driver: '72 Chevy LWB Custom/10. Rebuilt 350, 300 HP thanks to a few go-fast goodies. Ochre with a white top. Future plans include a frame off restoration, and maybe a blown 383.

Pont · 03-29-2002, 10:56 AM

Well, if were talking about head or intake gaskets, I would say no sealer. Use Felpro only. For something like valve covers, timing cover, oil pan, etc. I use a product called Gaskacinch (sp). Apply it like you would 3M weatherstrip adhesive. Lightly apply to gasket and surface, let it tach dry for about 15 minutes, then put it together. Hasn't failed me yet after all the engines I've built.

------------------
67 SWB 4x4 - 396 BB / SM420 4 spd
8" lift / 15x14 Welds & 35X14.5 SSR's
Grants Pass, OR

lukecp · 03-29-2002, 11:00 AM

I am talking about stuff like valve cover, fuel pump, oil pan, ect...

Pont · 03-29-2002, 11:03 AM

Gaskacinch will work perfect. Most parts stores I've been to carry it. It's also used as a belt dressing.

------------------
67 SWB 4x4 - 396 BB / SM420 4 spd
8" lift / 15x14 Welds & 35X14.5 SSR's
Grants Pass, OR

*Shane* · 03-29-2002, 11:13 AM

I have had my best luck with valve covers by using RTV on the valve cover, then place gasket on the valve cover and place clothes pins around the perimeter of the valve cover/gasket area to hold the gasket flat while the RTV is drying. Once the RTV is dry, remove the clothes pins and install the valve cover on the motor without any sealant on the gasket-to-head surface. This has always produced leak free covers and it also lets you remove the valve covers at a later time without destroying the gaskets.

The most important thing here is using a good quality gasket. (I prefer the neoprene/rubber type gaskets as opposed to the "cork" type.) And make sure you don't over tighten the valve cover bolts. If I remember correctly they only require about 7 lbs/ft. of torque. Its also a good idea to make sure the valve cover base itself isn't warped. It is real easy to warp the base by over tighteneing the covers and then you have a surface that looks like a wash board.....not real easy to seal...LOL! I have seen a bunch of covers where the person thought if they give the bolt another half turn, the leak would stop....but actually made it worse.

Hope this helps.

------------------
Keep On Truckin'

Shane
slecroix@bellsouth.net
Athens, Alabama

[This message has been edited by Shane (edited March 29, 2002).]

69 longhorn · 03-29-2002, 11:54 AM

I use the same method Shane has posted,rtv on the cover to gasket,& dry on the head. Felpro has a thick set of cover gaskets(neoprene impregnated cork),that seem to work the best. Some of the thin gaskets will leak ,as there is not enough thickness to take up any distortion in the covers.Good luck......69 longhorn.

704x4 · 03-29-2002, 11:18 PM

i'm telling you guys once you use
"the right stuff" comes in easy cheese container
you will never use silicone again
expensive but worth every cent

03-29-2002, 10:24 AM	#1
lukecp Formerly yellow72custom Join Date: May 2001 Location: Austin, TX Posts: 7,531	Gaskets What is the best selant to make gaskets stay sealed longer? I have heard several different methods, from using no selant at all, to covering both sides of the gaskets in selant, or just putting a bead on one side. Usually, i give both sides of the gakets a light coat of Permatex blue RTV selant. It has worked pretty good in the past, but i did it on some valve cover gaskets and they leaked even worse about 2 months later. What kind of selant should i use? Red, black, or blue? ------------------ Lucas "Another proud owner of one of the coolest trucks ever built" drop_shift@hotmail.com My Daily-Driver: '72 Chevy LWB Custom/10. Rebuilt 350, 300 HP thanks to a few go-fast goodies. Ochre with a white top. Future plans include a frame off restoration, and maybe a blown 383. __________________ '72 Chevy C10 Mild 350/TH350/3.07. Ochre/White. Old high school ride. '70 GMC C2500 '62 327 4bbl/SM465/4.56-geared Dana 60. White/White. Project or parts truck. '97 Saturn SL DD. 1.9/5-speed. 40+ highway mpg

03-29-2002, 10:56 AM	#2
Pont I need another Barley Pop Join Date: Feb 2001 Location: Grants Pass, OR Posts: 1,629	Well, if were talking about head or intake gaskets, I would say no sealer. Use Felpro only. For something like valve covers, timing cover, oil pan, etc. I use a product called Gaskacinch (sp). Apply it like you would 3M weatherstrip adhesive. Lightly apply to gasket and surface, let it tach dry for about 15 minutes, then put it together. Hasn't failed me yet after all the engines I've built. ------------------ 67 SWB 4x4 - 396 BB / SM420 4 spd 8" lift / 15x14 Welds & 35X14.5 SSR's Grants Pass, OR __________________ 67 Short Fleet 4x4 04 Honda CRF450R 89 Toyota 4-Runner 34 Ford 2 door sedan - Long term project ---------------------------------------------- There is a very fine line between "hobby" and "mental illness"

03-29-2002, 11:00 AM	#3
lukecp Formerly yellow72custom Join Date: May 2001 Location: Austin, TX Posts: 7,531	I am talking about stuff like valve cover, fuel pump, oil pan, ect... __________________ '72 Chevy C10 Mild 350/TH350/3.07. Ochre/White. Old high school ride. '70 GMC C2500 '62 327 4bbl/SM465/4.56-geared Dana 60. White/White. Project or parts truck. '97 Saturn SL DD. 1.9/5-speed. 40+ highway mpg

03-29-2002, 11:03 AM	#4
Pont I need another Barley Pop Join Date: Feb 2001 Location: Grants Pass, OR Posts: 1,629	Gaskacinch will work perfect. Most parts stores I've been to carry it. It's also used as a belt dressing. ------------------ 67 SWB 4x4 - 396 BB / SM420 4 spd 8" lift / 15x14 Welds & 35X14.5 SSR's Grants Pass, OR __________________ 67 Short Fleet 4x4 04 Honda CRF450R 89 Toyota 4-Runner 34 Ford 2 door sedan - Long term project ---------------------------------------------- There is a very fine line between "hobby" and "mental illness"

03-29-2002, 11:54 AM	#6
69 longhorn Registered User Join Date: Aug 2001 Location: rock island,il,usa Posts: 5,382	I use the same method Shane has posted,rtv on the cover to gasket,& dry on the head. Felpro has a thick set of cover gaskets(neoprene impregnated cork),that seem to work the best. Some of the thin gaskets will leak ,as there is not enough thickness to take up any distortion in the covers.Good luck......69 longhorn. __________________ http://community.webshots.com/user/hotrodhorn

03-29-2002, 11:13 AM	#5
Shane Account Suspended Join Date: Jun 2000 Location: over yonder Posts: 14,270	I have had my best luck with valve covers by using RTV on the valve cover, then place gasket on the valve cover and place clothes pins around the perimeter of the valve cover/gasket area to hold the gasket flat while the RTV is drying. Once the RTV is dry, remove the clothes pins and install the valve cover on the motor without any sealant on the gasket-to-head surface. This has always produced leak free covers and it also lets you remove the valve covers at a later time without destroying the gaskets. The most important thing here is using a good quality gasket. (I prefer the neoprene/rubber type gaskets as opposed to the "cork" type.) And make sure you don't over tighten the valve cover bolts. If I remember correctly they only require about 7 lbs/ft. of torque. Its also a good idea to make sure the valve cover base itself isn't warped. It is real easy to warp the base by over tighteneing the covers and then you have a surface that looks like a wash board.....not real easy to seal...LOL! I have seen a bunch of covers where the person thought if they give the bolt another half turn, the leak would stop....but actually made it worse. Hope this helps. ------------------ *Keep On Truckin'* Shane slecroix@bellsouth.net Athens, Alabama [This message has been edited by Shane (edited March 29, 2002).]

03-29-2002, 11:18 PM	#7
704x4 Registered User Join Date: Feb 2002 Location: Greene, Iowa Posts: 150	i'm telling you guys once you use "the right stuff" comes in easy cheese container you will never use silicone again expensive but worth every cent __________________ 70 3/4 ton 4x4 FOR SALE Greene, IA



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