Door Alignment - tell me if I'm on the right track

[Woodyboat]

I've got some issues with my Big Dooley Crew Cab. None of the four doors actually close comfortably. I have to tweak, lift, do some sort of contortion or just slam the dickens out of them to get them to close and stay closed. I've also noticed that the gaps between the doors and the body are all over the map.

It is a given that I will put new hinges and bushings in all the doors. But I'm not so sure that this will completely solve any and all problems. I almost wonder if the truck has been snatched out of alignment in a previous accident or something. I wonder how to verify this.

My main concern is that I feel I should get these doors as close to perfect as possible BEFORE I start rebuilding the rusted out rocker panels and floor board rust. My thinking is that I should align the doors to the body and then align the rocker panels to the doors. Is this the right way to do this?

If anyone knows of any place where I can find some tutorials or video instructions, please chime in and I thank you in advance.

[TKCR]

I would check out YouTube for videos. I watch all types of how to videos concerning my truck. Just search Chevy truck door alignment or adjustment and you'll get plenty of videos to help you out.

[Keith Seymore]

Be advised that door gaps were all over the place back in the day, so what you are seeing on your truck may have been typical of the build quality.

Having said that you would want to fit the door to the existing cab pieces (A pillar, roof and B and C pillars) as you have suggested and then add the new rockers based on that.

Fender fit comes last and is based on where the doors end up.

K

[Woodyboat]

Originally Posted by TKCR

I would check out YouTube for videos. I watch all types of how to videos concerning my truck. Just search Chevy truck door alignment or adjustment and you'll get plenty of videos to help you out.

That sounded like a good idea so I went to YouTube and searched just what you said. I didn't get much for Chevy trucks specifically but there are quite a few videos describing door gaps on a lot of other vehicles. The information there is pretty generic but still good info.

Originally Posted by Keith Seymore

Be advised that door gaps were all over the place back in the day, so what you are seeing on your truck may have been typical of the build quality.

Having said that you would want to fit the door to the existing cab pieces (A pillar, roof and B and C pillars) as you have suggested and then add the new rockers based on that.

Fender fit comes last and is based on where the doors end up.

K

Your saying that door gaps were all over the place back in the day actually makes me feel a lot better. One of the videos I just watched on YouTube described actually reworking the metal on the doors to get the gaps to fit better. Somehow I thought that that might be simply hiding a problem. So, here's my plan of action:

On each side, I will use the middle body line at the pillars as a reference. I want to start at the C pillar and work forward. If I stretch some tape from the middle body line at the C pillar and then straight across the middle body line at the B pillar, I could then extend the tape onto the front fender. I will trim the tape so that I can open and close the doors.

Next, beginning with the rear door, I will work the hinges (after I replace all the bushings and pins) so the the center body lines on the door line up correctly between the C and B pillar. From there, I think I should adjust the striker plate and bolt for correct latching and unlatching.

After that, repeat the process with the front door. When it's opening/closing and the body lines are correct, I should adjust the fender.

Next, do whatever body work is required to even the gaps and finally, repair my rocker panels.

Does this sound good?

[Keith Seymore]

Originally Posted by Woodyboat

Your saying that door gaps were all over the place back in the day actually makes me feel a lot better. One of the videos I just watched on YouTube described actually reworking the metal on the doors to get the gaps to fit better.

The regular cab pickup cabs were pretty highly automated, such that you could feed individual panels in one end and a completed pickup cab popped out the other. That made them fairly consistent in terms of demensional stability and gaps in general (door or otherwise).

Crew Cabs, as well as Blazer/Suburban, were much more manual in construction and used an archaic "side gate" system. That made for a lot more variation in the cab dimensions. If you follow the gap around the periphery of the door you can usually see it.

http://www.73-87.com/7387info/Assembly%20Line.htm (photo 7, specifically)

K

[Woodyboat]

Originally Posted by Keith Seymore

... If you follow the gap around the periphery of the door you can usually see it.

http://www.73-87.com/7387info/Assembly%20Line.htm (photo 7, specifically)

K

So THAT'S what a rust free square body looks like!! I've always wondered.

Actually Keith, those photos are GREAT and all of you guys on this thread ROCK! It's awesome that I can get answers like these and I thank all of you.

[Front Range]

Great photos!

I always wondered what that red oxide coating was, still have a pristine coating of it on the cab.

Keith was there a predicted lifespan on these trucks and are you surprised at how long some of them have lasted?

[Jabes1]

Sounds like you've got it. You'd be surprised at how easy and well your doors will close with a simple rebuild of the hinges.

[gmachinz]

Keep in mind that replacement rust repair panels i.e. cab corners/rocker panels will also need tweaking to fit properly. On a truck I'm working with the cab corners needed some grinding/contouring to fit properly as will the rocker panels. I suggest working your repairs starting with the cab corners and move forward after aligning the doors as best you can. Here are a couple before/after pics showing the LH side I did.

[gmachinz]

Before...

[gmachinz]

After...

[gmachinz]

Most of the tacking is done...