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Old 09-30-2003, 04:27 PM   #1
dubie
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55-59 body on 67-72 frame

can this be done? has anyone ever done this before?? what is the wheelbase on a shorty 55-59.
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Old 09-30-2003, 09:47 PM   #2
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i believe that the wheelbase is 2" shorter on the 55-59 trucks. That is 114" on the stepside. Someone correct me if wrong.......
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Old 10-03-2003, 06:29 PM   #3
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55-59 wb = 114"
67-72 wb = 115"
The orig 114" wheelbase is actually a little short for a nice look with the wheel fitting in the fender openings. the 71-72 swb makes a nice swap!
I got your pm dubie and I will try to get some more info perhaps with some pics b4 it gets dark.
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Old 10-04-2003, 11:08 AM   #4
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So if I have a 72 long frame at 127" I would just have to cut it to 114"? or should I cut it to 115" ?
Thanks for the PM Denny, those pics are very helpful
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Old 10-09-2003, 08:54 AM   #5
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Its a matter of personal preference Tim.
I would set up the cab and box on it and see what looks best for you with the wheels you plan to run.

Keep us posted!

BTW, When did you get a task force body?
Is it yours or Shawna's?
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Old 10-14-2003, 04:55 PM   #6
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I haven't picked one up yet, but I'm on the prowl

There are a couple bodies in town that would make suitable resto's, and it would be Shawnas for sure. I'm stuck on my 72
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Old 11-25-2003, 03:55 PM   #7
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sorry for dragging up this old thread, but it lookslike I am gonna do this swap in the future now. The 71 GMC shorty I had lined up to buy for the wife, isn't gonna fly. The guy has backed out of the sale a couple times now, so i said forget it.
Denny, sorry to bug you yet again, but would you happen to had some pics of your truck as the body sits on the frame. Just want a pic from the side view of the entire truck as well as a pic from the front 3/4 view and rear 3/4 view. Kinda like the pic in your avatar.
Thanks again
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Old 11-25-2003, 05:13 PM   #8
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I'm glad this came up. I may be acquiring a late 55 GMC and I already have a 69 Short bed 1/2 ton that has no-good body on it. I was wondering too if the 55 could be put on the 69 frame and what mods would be needed, if any?

How do the body mounts line up with the ones on the frame? Do adapters need to be made?
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Old 11-26-2003, 01:56 AM   #9
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Lots of garage engineering time... But hey that is why we do this stuff. Right?
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Old 11-26-2003, 10:12 AM   #10
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Do these help Tim?
I have the truck covered but if you need better pics I should be able to shoot some this weekend.

Keep in mind that this frame is too long for this setup, and since I'll be changing over to 4wd....well I will part this chassis out eventually

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Old 11-26-2003, 10:58 AM   #11
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looks great, Thanks Denny!!
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Old 11-27-2003, 02:51 PM   #12
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I am in the process of putting a 55 Chevy Stepside on an 80 model chevy 4x4 frame. hae already had frame sandblasted and new red polly bushings installed . Paninted with black Centari
Am putting in filler pieces in frame where it dips down for the cab on later models. Then will bolt origional cab mounts to frame It appears everything will line up and fit pretty well. If anythg this will add a little needed stiffness to teh later model frame . Bed is pretty much a blot on so just a matter orf mounting cab .(origional mounts and red polly bushings. Cut rivets out of old radiator support brackets and will bolt tack to frame.
Saw a fairly nice truck for sale in Arkansas recently that was done this way and it looked good ! But want to build my own

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Old 11-28-2003, 12:25 AM   #13
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Hey Gene, Thats alot like what i'm looking to do.
Is the 80 4x4 a straight axel or a torsion bar IFS? (asuming its a 1/2 ton)
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Old 11-28-2003, 12:47 AM   #14
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The 80 model is a straight axel truck. Corporate 10 bolt in front 12 blot in rear . It is sitting on a 2 inch lift kit from 4 Wheel Parts Wholesalers along with new longer length shocks and a 2 inch block under the steering arm.
It could also be done with an 88 up Independant Suspension Frame. Although I believe the later frame may be wider thus causing additional work
The 73 - 87 frame is the right width the beds are nearly identical except for the fenders . The tail gate is exactly the same !
The only cutting and welding involved is in putting the filer in where the cab is to set It will need to be about 6 inches wide by the lengthof the dip in the frame,
Am going to make a bracket and use dual diaphram booster master cylinder from a later model . I have already put on a set or 12.50 X 32 X 15 Daytona Radials with 10 X 15 Mickey Thompson Classic II wheels so will need good booster and cylinder to stop adequately
Plan for a 350 horse Chevy RamJet Crate Motor
Have Chevy 465 4 speed and 205 transfercase which I will backup with a Gear Vendor Overdrive

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Old 11-28-2003, 10:49 AM   #15
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I would love to see a side view of your truck to see wheel locations in the fender wells.

Thanks
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Old 11-28-2003, 11:21 AM   #16
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Cool

Will try to post photo as soon as I get that far along. Am gathering new sheetmetal body parts and preparing to get underside of cab sandblasted and outside and interior soda blasted and primered . Am going to undercoat bottom of cab and under side of Fenders etc with Rhino Liner Bedcoating . Should add a lot of insulation and sound deading. This truck will be a daily driver


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Old 11-28-2003, 11:39 AM   #17
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Gene,
Check out this post on Pistons site regarding bedliners.
I think you will find some useful info there.

re: do-it-yourself spray on bedl iners
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Old 11-28-2003, 11:48 AM   #18
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BTW Gene, What is the wheelbase of that 80 4x4?
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Old 11-29-2003, 02:23 AM   #19
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I believe it is 115 inches will measure for sure tomorrow. a lillte more room between bed and cab will not hurt The main thing is that the wheels center in the wheel wells. I have seen several trucks doenthis way and they loked good !

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Old 11-30-2003, 06:49 PM   #20
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Just measured both trucks the wheel base on the 55 measures about 116 1/2 and the 80 model 4x4 measures about 118 Axel center to axel center on both trucks . Teh fender openings measure about 35 ate tehbottoms so should be plenty of room for 32 " tires even in fully compressed mode

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Old 12-02-2003, 12:57 AM   #21
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Thanks Gene,
I will look foward to some pics.
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Old 12-03-2003, 10:36 PM   #22
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as far as the 55-59 cab on a 67-72 frame its fairly simple best thig is to change the cab frame mounts and if you must shorten a frame i read a few articles that the best place to cut is the area that will covered under the cab and then box up the frame in that area. as far as these cabs on a later 73-87 frame what i had done was taken the mounts of the original frame and put them on the later frame and then to get the right look i notched the cab(seat rail to back of cab i have a pic to show if interested) you possiblly could still put the tank in the same location but i had poted for the tank behind the rear under the bed

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Old 12-05-2003, 11:34 PM   #23
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Just ordered a complete bed kit from Mar - K in Oklahoma City both the wood and metal with all stainless bolts and hardware. The only thing not included is the Fenders and braces which I will purchase else where . A totally new bed , no rust no body work !

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Old 12-24-2003, 02:43 PM   #24
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There are a number of aftermarket frames available. Or you can 'build' the factory frame.
Here are a few links.

Ryan Sain built his frame from scratch. You might want to check out his web site and drop him a line.

Ed Snyder cut his longbed down to make a shortbed.

I'm sure that you could make just about anything work if you throw enough money at it.

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Aside from wanting a '58/59 bed for my '56 Chevrolet, I think that the reproduction beds are the way to go.
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Old 12-27-2003, 08:54 PM   #25
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here is a picture of my Panel truck. It is a 56 sitting on top of an 83 Blazer frame. Of course it's 4x4. Sorry the picture is so small, but it should give you an idea of how well these frame swaps line up.

Drives like a dream.

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