Moving ball joint

[clemsonteg]

I've been investigating ways to achieve more caster and I read through the caster mod Using re-drilled shafts, and it made me wonder if the ball joint area could be cut off, moved forward, and re-welded in the same fashion? I did some searching and didn't see anything. Anyone tried it?

[robnolimit]

we did exactly that on the J.T. build. We purchased new lower ball joint press in cups from Howe Racing for the truck ball joint. Then, we located the arm on a drill vise and used a hole saw to cut a hole for the new cup 1" forward. welded in the new cup and trimmed and braced in the remaining arm end. Works great, but is a lot more work than drilling the shaft. Same result.

[tinydb84]

I stole Rob's idea.


I didn't have a drill press at the time so I used whole saw to make two pieces of steel. Filled the original ball joint holes. then drilled my new holes and welded the cup in. I didn't go as far forward as he did though.

[clemsonteg]

Thanks for the idea. It is definitely better than what I had envisioned. I will have to ponder over re-drilling the shaft and associated work versus the movement of the ball joint.

[tinydb84]

Here is the other option: http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=501241

[clemsonteg]

Originally Posted by tinydb84

Here is the other option: http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=501241

Thanks. I read through that one also. Since I have airbags, I have some concern about moving the bottom spring pocket where my lower cup sits and it seemed like some were having trouble with shock mounting

[68c10airstream]

My idea which I have no time right now to do is come in say an inch from the cross shaft area and make a wedge shaped cut at the widest area of the control arm. Re-weld it together. My thoughts are this:

No mods out at the ball joint area, no change of the steering stop area'
rubber bump stop would be easy to move if needed'
I haven't figured out yet if the shock mount would need to be modded'
This is the only mod that still gives you full turn angles because the ball joint isn't off center.

I picked up a couple of used control arms and was going to practice on them and then finalize on the good ones. This way It wouldn't widen or narrow my track width.

Ultimately if you want to move the ball joint forward, cut out a narrow full width wedge cut, with the widest area of the wedge cut pointing forward and possibly using the cut out piece installed (welded) back in with the wedge wide area now pointed to the rear. I haven't seen anyone do this yet and it's been on my mind for a while now.

If I knew how to photoshop, etc I would show it that way!