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10-11-2003, 04:40 AM | #1 |
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Join Date: May 2003
Location: Lake Oswego, Oregon
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the 84 scotty plans
soo, what do you guys think i sould go with after i get my truck smoothed out and re-painted. i want to take off the scottsdale black and chrome molding that runs along the lower parts, but i still want to have the chrome molding that lines the fenders. tell me what u think. BTW it will still be painted the original light blue.
I am also thinking of putting the solid chrome molding but just give me some feedback. i will have the chrome molding that goes around the windsheild. i just think that taking off the body molding will make it look smoother. Here are my plans. im not going to lower it (i like the way it sits, for now). it will have some nice and bright 20'' tourq thrust II's all around. the original somewhat flaked light blue. as far as the engine goes, basically whatever money i have left will go into savings for a 350 or lt1 (the 305 sucks, it has 56000 original miles but still doesnt pull at all, but runs great). i just want a nice and clean looking truck, nothing really show car quality because it will be my daily driver, but just nice. i have a budget of about 6000. im doing the bodywork myself. getting it preped, primed, and painted would be 3ish. wheels are 2500. and 500 to get new bumpers and molding. then whatever i have left over (if any) will go into the bank for the engine.
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Ken Morgan For fun: 1964 Volvo 122 For slow: 1984 Chevrolet C-10 For everything else: 1997 BMW M3 |
10-11-2003, 08:22 AM | #2 |
Robert Olson Transport
Join Date: Oct 2002
Location: recent transplant to NC USA
Posts: 20,310
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if you can do the body work yourself why not do the prep work so when it goets to the body shop for paint all they gotta do is hit it with prepsall and shoot it that should cut the paint job price in half, unless youre doin some kind of paint scheme with lots of clear coat or stripes etc. Where i live a quality paint job would be about $1500
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10-11-2003, 10:30 AM | #3 |
Garage Queen Material
Join Date: Oct 2002
Location: USA
Posts: 4,129
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why get an lt1 when you could get an ls1?
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10-11-2003, 11:21 AM | #4 |
Project92 SWB stepside
Join Date: Feb 2003
Location: Louisville KY
Posts: 4,792
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LT1 is old news unless its really cheap!! Sounds like a PITA to go thru with the wiring to not go LS1.
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92 C1500 stepside 496 Stroker Competiton Engineering Ladder bars/QA1 coilovers. Dana 60 rear with 4.10 gear and posi. Bonspeed Palisade 20x12 in rear w/335/30/20 and 20x8.5 front w/245/40/20. 5/8 drop with Belltech springs/DJM spindles/drop shocks. WWS Progress thread http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=140448 |
10-11-2003, 11:47 AM | #5 |
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Post some side views so we can decide about the trim. It's hard to say without looking at it.
If you can remove everything before taking it to the painter, you can save a few bucks, and will get a better paint job. If it's not there, they can't paint around it. Unless you know what you are doing, or can have someone guide you, I don't suggest you try the prep work. If you plan to get a nice paint job, it won't be cheap. Most shops won't gaurantee a paint job unless they do the prep work. I have two suggestions for motors. If I were you, and wanted the most bang for the buck, I would look at the GM crate motors. They have one for every budget now. The 330 HO motor is a nice base motor with Vortec heads that's putting out 330 hp at 5k rpm, and 380 tq at 3.5k rpm. The best part is the price. It's listed for $2300., but it can be had for around $1800. The better choice if you can scrape some more greenies up is the HT 383 It's a nice little factory stroker motor that is decieving in specs. It "only" puts out 325 hp @ 4500 rpm, but the tq specs are 415 ft lbs. @ 3500 rpm. If you look at a dyno chart on this motor, you will be amazed. Here's a couple of articles on the HT 383 Classic Truck article Chevy High performance
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10-11-2003, 11:54 AM | #6 |
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Guys, the problem with suggesting an LS1 swap is the price. You can see he has a limited budget set for this rebuild. An LS1 swap will consume most of his "entire" budget.
Even if you get the engine and trans for free, you will spend $1000. on a harness and re-burn for the computer. If you do the work yourself you "might" get an LS1 on the ground for less than $5-6k. If you ask around, you will hear the average shop price to be more like $7-8k. I can assure you I have reciepts for a lot more than that.... Stick with a crate motor... |
10-11-2003, 11:55 AM | #7 |
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I found your side view. I say get rid of the emblems they are to big. That alone will clean the side view up. The fender trim would look good on there, and can be had for really cheap.
Oh yeah, lower it just a little more...pleeease Last edited by N2TRUX; 10-11-2003 at 11:59 AM. |
10-11-2003, 01:39 PM | #8 |
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Join Date: May 2003
Location: Lake Oswego, Oregon
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now i am starting to think about lowering because after the 20's it would make it sit a few inches higher. as for the engine i think i will go with a zz4 HO 350.
i am very good with body work, i did my volvo with my dad. you should of seen that car when we started ($600 rust bucket). we cut the whole trunk off and welded a doner one because of cancer problems. thanks for the input!!
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Ken Morgan For fun: 1964 Volvo 122 For slow: 1984 Chevrolet C-10 For everything else: 1997 BMW M3 |
10-11-2003, 03:13 PM | #9 | |||
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Quote:
Quote:
Quote:
Last edited by N2TRUX; 10-12-2003 at 11:38 PM. |
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10-12-2003, 09:17 PM | #10 |
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Location: Lake Oswego, Oregon
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thanks for the input. i love your truck!! and your blazer.
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Ken Morgan For fun: 1964 Volvo 122 For slow: 1984 Chevrolet C-10 For everything else: 1997 BMW M3 |
10-13-2003, 12:50 AM | #11 |
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Location: Elkhart, IN
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i think taking the trim off sounds like a crappy idea, since i've already started doing it. your truck will end up looking like mine. seriosuly, go for it. i've had several trucks with that combination, and it looked fine.
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