70 k2500 brakes - The 1947 - Present Chevrolet & GMC Truck Message Board Network

vintagefarmer · 01-08-2017, 12:23 AM

im putting power brakes in my non power brake truck. i was told it needs a different push rod for the booster. anyone have measurments or a part number?

Mike C · 01-08-2017, 10:08 AM

The pushrod is captured in the back of the booster. The 67-72 trucks offset the booster from the hole and the "pushrod" is actually a linkage.

Best way to convert one of these truck is to buy an aftermarket kit or pull one from a parts vehicle so you can get the right stuff. If you just buy a reman booster, you don't get the brackets or linkage.

vintagefarmer · 01-08-2017, 03:48 PM

do you have a link or a part number for a decently priced comversion kit? even if it is just the booster and bracketry. i was looking them up on summit and a few i found were 300 bucks! also, the truck is drums front and rear.

Mike C · 01-08-2017, 08:25 PM

There are bunches of them on eBay. About $200 but they seem to be for disc/drum. But you should be able to buy a drum/drum master for power brakes and use it. Just not as good a value if you have to buy a master other than the one it comes with.

I converted my 70 GMC 2500 to discs and used a disc master with the original drum booster.

Andy4639 · 01-09-2017, 11:30 AM

I just did this last week the old push rod has only the bullet head end on it that went to the master cyclinder. You need the push rod that has the clevis on the booster side and nut and collar on the brake pedal side.This is what I bought. I got the booster from a friend local.

Your rod now.

vintagefarmer · 01-09-2017, 02:18 PM

oh okay. so i need the brackets and the push rod then.

*randy500* · 01-09-2017, 06:16 PM

I have the whole setup for a 3/4 ton if you want to buy it...2wd and 4wd are the same or similar enough, disc brake or non disc brake the booster assembly is essentially the same. Leave your master cylinder and prop valve alone and just put the booster behind it.

As far as the aftermarket boosters...I guess they are fine, I put one on my 72 dodge dart this spring, works fine, remarkably similar linkage to our trucks, kind of sloppy tolerances compared to factory but it does work good, again on that car I just moved the master cylinder forward, installed the booster and put the master cylinder back on it, took about an hour to do and no bleeding of the brakes.

Andy4639 · 01-09-2017, 07:08 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by randy500

I have the whole setup for a 3/4 ton if you want to buy it...2wd and 4wd are the same or similar enough, disc brake or non disc brake the booster assembly is essentially the same. Leave your master cylinder and prop valve alone and just put the booster behind it.

As far as the aftermarket boosters...I guess they are fine, I put one on my 72 dodge dart this spring, works fine, remarkably similar linkage to our trucks, kind of sloppy tolerances compared to factory but it does work good, again on that car I just moved the master cylinder forward, installed the booster and put the master cylinder back on it, took about an hour to do and no bleeding of the brakes.

Thats all I did was take it loose from the fire wall and brake pedal added the booster setup. Now have brakes with very little foot pressure. I had to take the clip off the frame where it held the brake lines in place to move the master cylinder forward enough to mount it on the booster.

Mike C · 01-09-2017, 10:15 PM

In some applications, the master cylinder hole is deeper in the non-power assist version. This keeps the non-attached push rod from falling out.

On the aftermarket setup I bought, it came with a non-power disc/drum type master with a spacer that dropped in the hole for use with a power setup.

This must allow them to just stock one part # for both power and non-power assisted brakes.

vintagefarmer · 01-13-2017, 01:08 AM

the brakes completely went out on the truck, the major reason i parked it besides the snow and salt. since they just disappeared completely i think it might be the master, if its not then i guess i gotta re run some lines. i have a booster on order from oriellys complete with a new master, figured if i have to dink around with it, and wigh a new booster costing over 100 bucks and the new master adding somewhere are 15 bucks it was kind of a no brainer. but ill nedd to source the linkages.

01-08-2017, 12:23 AM	#1
vintagefarmer Registered User Join Date: Nov 2016 Location: Zimmerman, minnesota Posts: 10	70 k2500 brakes im putting power brakes in my non power brake truck. i was told it needs a different push rod for the booster. anyone have measurments or a part number?

01-08-2017, 10:08 AM	#2
Mike C Registered User Join Date: Dec 1999 Location: Austin, TX, USA Posts: 7,727	Re: 70 k2500 brakes The pushrod is captured in the back of the booster. The 67-72 trucks offset the booster from the hole and the "pushrod" is actually a linkage. Best way to convert one of these truck is to buy an aftermarket kit or pull one from a parts vehicle so you can get the right stuff. If you just buy a reman booster, you don't get the brackets or linkage. __________________ 44 Willys MB 52 M38A1 64 Corvette Coupe 68 Camaro 'vert LT1 & TH700 69 Z/28 355 12.6's @110 69 Chevy Short Step 4 1/2"/7" drop 72 Jimmy 4WD 4spd 4" & 35's 02 GMC 2500HD 4x4 Duramax

01-08-2017, 03:48 PM	#3
vintagefarmer Registered User Join Date: Nov 2016 Location: Zimmerman, minnesota Posts: 10	Re: 70 k2500 brakes do you have a link or a part number for a decently priced comversion kit? even if it is just the booster and bracketry. i was looking them up on summit and a few i found were 300 bucks! also, the truck is drums front and rear.

01-08-2017, 08:25 PM	#4
Mike C Registered User Join Date: Dec 1999 Location: Austin, TX, USA Posts: 7,727	Re: 70 k2500 brakes There are bunches of them on eBay. About $200 but they seem to be for disc/drum. But you should be able to buy a drum/drum master for power brakes and use it. Just not as good a value if you have to buy a master other than the one it comes with. I converted my 70 GMC 2500 to discs and used a disc master with the original drum booster. __________________ 44 Willys MB 52 M38A1 64 Corvette Coupe 68 Camaro 'vert LT1 & TH700 69 Z/28 355 12.6's @110 69 Chevy Short Step 4 1/2"/7" drop 72 Jimmy 4WD 4spd 4" & 35's 02 GMC 2500HD 4x4 Duramax

01-09-2017, 11:30 AM	#5
Andy4639 Old member Join Date: Jan 2002 Location: Liberty, & Garden City S.C. , U.S. Posts: 19,945	Re: 70 k2500 brakes I just did this last week the old push rod has only the bullet head end on it that went to the master cyclinder. You need the push rod that has the clevis on the booster side and nut and collar on the brake pedal side.This is what I bought. I got the booster from a friend local. Your rod now. __________________ 1971 LWB Custom, 6.0LS & 4L80E, Speedhut.com GPS speedometer & gauges with A/C. 20" Boss 338's Grey wheels 4 wheel disc brakes. My Driver Seeing the USA in a 71 Upstate SC GM Truck Club 2013,14 and 2016 Hot Rod Pour Tour http://upstategmtrucks.com/ Get out and drive the truck this summer and have some fun! It sucks not being able to hear! LWB trucks rule, if you don't think so measure your SWB! After talking to tech support at Air Lift I have found out that the kit I need is 60811. Per the measurements I gave them. Ride height of truck inside spring and inside diameter of springs.

01-09-2017, 02:18 PM	#6
vintagefarmer Registered User Join Date: Nov 2016 Location: Zimmerman, minnesota Posts: 10	Re: 70 k2500 brakes oh okay. so i need the brackets and the push rod then.

01-09-2017, 06:16 PM	#7
randy500 Account Suspended Join Date: Jul 2016 Location: Tacoma, WA Posts: 6,873	Re: 70 k2500 brakes I have the whole setup for a 3/4 ton if you want to buy it...2wd and 4wd are the same or similar enough, disc brake or non disc brake the booster assembly is essentially the same. Leave your master cylinder and prop valve alone and just put the booster behind it. As far as the aftermarket boosters...I guess they are fine, I put one on my 72 dodge dart this spring, works fine, remarkably similar linkage to our trucks, kind of sloppy tolerances compared to factory but it does work good, again on that car I just moved the master cylinder forward, installed the booster and put the master cylinder back on it, took about an hour to do and no bleeding of the brakes.

01-09-2017, 10:15 PM	#9
Mike C Registered User Join Date: Dec 1999 Location: Austin, TX, USA Posts: 7,727	Re: 70 k2500 brakes In some applications, the master cylinder hole is deeper in the non-power assist version. This keeps the non-attached push rod from falling out. On the aftermarket setup I bought, it came with a non-power disc/drum type master with a spacer that dropped in the hole for use with a power setup. This must allow them to just stock one part # for both power and non-power assisted brakes. __________________ 44 Willys MB 52 M38A1 64 Corvette Coupe 68 Camaro 'vert LT1 & TH700 69 Z/28 355 12.6's @110 69 Chevy Short Step 4 1/2"/7" drop 72 Jimmy 4WD 4spd 4" & 35's 02 GMC 2500HD 4x4 Duramax

01-13-2017, 01:08 AM	#10
vintagefarmer Registered User Join Date: Nov 2016 Location: Zimmerman, minnesota Posts: 10	Re: 70 k2500 brakes the brakes completely went out on the truck, the major reason i parked it besides the snow and salt. since they just disappeared completely i think it might be the master, if its not then i guess i gotta re run some lines. i have a booster on order from oriellys complete with a new master, figured if i have to dink around with it, and wigh a new booster costing over 100 bucks and the new master adding somewhere are 15 bucks it was kind of a no brainer. but ill nedd to source the linkages.



Register or Log In To remove these advertisements.

Register or Log In To remove these advertisements.