Removing Rust From Bolts

[Marcus4800]

I just finished removing all the body parts from my 63 C10 stepside shortbed rebuild. You can imagine the amount of rust on all the nuts and bolts after 54 years in the weather. My son who works at a cooler shop (radiator on oil coolers for industrial engines) I ask him when they vat stuff does it remove the rust and he said no but it does remove the paint. So I asked how they get the rust off and he said muriatic acid. So I knew I had a gallon of the acid so I pored a little in a plastic coffee container about 1-1/2 deep. Now each time I take a set of bolts off I put them in a zip lock baggie and write on the bag what they go to. So I took a set of bolts and dropped them in the acid for about 30 minutes and when I took them out I was totally blown away. They looked like you took them out of a new box bolts. Now I doing all my nuts and bolts. Now some bolts that are bad you know that real quick you find bad spots that you couldn't see before you soaked them. When I take them out of the acid I drop them in paint thinner to neutralize the acid and let them air dry before I put them back in the baggie. Y'll probably already knew this but I didn't and thought I would share for those like me who didn't. Muriatic can be bought at any swimming pool supply store or the home improvement stores in the pool supplies. ####CAUTION#### don't get this stuff on you it burns I encourage to wear safety eye and hand protection. I use the throw away plastic glove when working with this. Hope this helps a few folks....

[Captainfab]

I use white vinegar to remove rust and mill scale from new steel. I neutralize the parts by rinsing them in a baking soda and water solution. The muratic acid does work but I prefer an acid a little milder.

[Marcus4800]

Originally Posted by Captainfab

I use white vinegar to remove rust and mill scale from new steel. I neutralize the parts by rinsing them in a baking soda and water solution. The muratic acid does work but I prefer an acid a little milder.

Thanks I'll give that a try to.....

[PGSigns]

I have been using Metal Rescue and it works pretty good. Got a plastic 2 gallon bucket with a lid and a plastic strainer. Got a gallon from the parts store.
Jimmy

[jayoldschool]

Vinegar works, and is dirt cheap. Buy a few big jugs at Costco, dump in a bucket. Pour in the parts, take out a couple days later, rinse. Parts will look new.

[cg285]

i buy new hardware and go back to work

[MikeB]

Originally Posted by cg285

i buy new hardware and go back to work

Some of the bolts and nuts used by GM are hard to find new. For example, the nuts, and sometime bolts, have flanged shoulders instead of having to use washers. Also, some bolts are only partially threaded, so the un-threaded part can serve as a smooth surface for a bushing. An example of this is an exhaust manifold bolt that's 3-3/8" long with only 10-12 threads on the end.

However, if you have really good hardware store in your area, you may find they carry at least some automotive-type bolts. In the Dallas, we have Elliot's Hardware and BA Industrial. There are also a bunch of good on-line stores, such as Bolt Depot.

[TJ's Chevy]

Originally Posted by cg285

i buy new hardware and go back to work

x2. I've been using stainless.

[MikeB]

Originally Posted by TJ's Chevy

x2. I've been using stainless.

Yeah, me to on some things. Attached the tailgate latch on my 69 pickup using stainless hardware back in the early 1990s, and the bolts are still shiny!

[Cape Codder]

I have also started using vinegar just because it is less hazardous. It is best to rinse any part treated with acid to baking soda water rinse to neutralize. as has been stated and told to me by a science teacher customer of mine.

[MikeB]

Sounds like I should try muriatic acid.

I have been using Evapo-rust, which works pretty well. Just clean off the grease and loose rust, then drop the bolts into plastic container with enough liquid to cover them. Then check the bolts every few hours.

One nice thing is it's kind of like a jelly, so can be used on vertical surfaces that you can't drop in a container.

Wish I had a picture of a bracket I soaked in Evapo-rust. One corner was part in/part out of the liquid, so there was sharp line that showed a huge before/after difference.

[Cape Codder]

To do large sheet metal parts wet a few layers of paper towel and let it sit for a while on the part, You may have to keep adding whatever acid you are using if heavily rusted.

[jocko]

I've gone away from muratic acid. It's simply not very safe. As a kid I poured it on parts in a little metal jiffy pop base. Of course I knocked it over and it was the China Syndrome on my dad's freshly blacktopped driveway... It didn't end well. To top things off, I left a bottle open on his workbench once - and all his exposed tools dulled and looked like crapola. So, let's just say I learned my lesson! Ha. Ouch. Can only imagine if one little splash of it got past the safety glasses. Anyhoo.. I use evaporust, but I gotta try the vinegar approach just for the cost savings.

[Heater63]

You might want to read about using acids on steel and hydrogen embrittlement.

I would not use HCl (muriatic) acid on fasteners.

I highly recommend Evaporust. It is EDTA, which is a chelating agent. Very safe, and works very well. It resembles antifreeze on appearance. Tractor Supply (using a coupon) and WalMart.com are my cheapest sources. You can use it over and over until it is black.

[vin63]

I also do not use acids, etc. on fasteners. I'm a reloader, so I use my tumbler to clean. If they are bad, I replace fasteners.

[VictoriaHardware]

Originally Posted by Heater63

You might want to read about using acids on steel and hydrogen embrittlement.

Very important- I have run into this. It wrecks Grade 3, 5, & 8 bolts and springs. Makes them soft. They stretch till they break.

[DakotaKid]

harbor freight abrasive Tumbler bowl. best thing ever. throw em in, forget about em for a few hours, come back they are clean.