Rear differential options 53' 3/4 ton

[1953]

I am looking for advice on what to do with my 53 rear suspension, I am fairly new to classic trucks I am starting a restoration on the 1953 Chevy 3/4 ton and found that the rear leaf spring hangers was at one time broke and somone welded the pivot pin to the hangers I want to keep original and CAN'T FIND replacement hangers that are original so I am looking for advice on what I can use to replace the original ones

[dwcsr]

Call RPM Motor sports
1-888-223-1864

They deal in a lot of old and odd used parts

looks like you need both pieces. The frame mount and the shackle

[73kay]

Parting out my 50 3/4 ton Let me know what you need and I can help you out.

[1953]

Just the rear hanger brackets and shackles would be nice

[1953]

Hey bud just need the rear leaf hanger brackets possibly the hangers as well if we can work somthing out that would be cool

[1953]

Hey bud just need the rear leaf hanger brackets possibly the hangers as well if we can work somthing out that would be cool

[1953]

Hey bud just need the rear leaf hanger brackets possibly the hangers as well if we can work somthing out that would be cool

[1953]

Hey guys wondering what options I have in what type of rear end I could put in my stock 1953 Chevy 3/4 ton I'm looking for something for a better ratio and better Bolt other than the 8- Bolt have on there now I have the 216 engine and stock manual transmission I also want to convert the front from 8 bolt to either A6 Bolt or a 5 Bolt please chime in any information helps

[Foot Stomper]

An early 80's Chevy 1/2 ton 2 WD differential is only one inch wider than stock but gives you a higher gear ratio. It also will accept the 6 bolt axles. A simple 1/2 inch notch in the spring perch will make for any easy install.

[1953]

Ok so early 80's 1/2 ton with spring perch notch sounds about what I was thinking, so will my drive shaft have to be modified in any way?

[Foot Stomper]

Originally Posted by 1953

Ok so early 80's 1/2 ton with spring perch notch sounds about what I was thinking, so will my drive shaft have to be modified in any way?

Dad didn't have to when he did the '59 years ago. Best to do some measuring though to be safe.

[1953]

Forsure better safe then sorry lol b it I appreciate the info this is my first classic Chevy build and kinda learning as I go appreciate it forsure

[Foot Stomper]

Originally Posted by Foot Stomper

An early 80's Chevy 1/2 ton 2 WD differential is only one inch wider than stock but gives you a higher gear ratio. It also will accept the 6 bolt axles. A simple 1/2 inch notch in the spring perch will make for any easy install.

My sincere apologies to the group, OP and anyone reading this thread as I have made a bad mistake.

My advice was misguided as I was thinking 55.1 to 59 and NOT any application for the 53 as the OP had clearly stated so please accept my apology.

I have no advice to offer as a solution for a possible rear axle swap.

[yossarian19]

Are you wanting to keep it heavy duty / going to haul or tow with it?

[1953]

No heavy hauling want a better driver want to lower it a few inches aswell and put disc brakes on it and keep all original 3 on a tree tranny and 216 engine mostly after disc brakes and 6 lug or 5 lug

[yossarian19]

What front end are you going with?

[whitedog76]

I figured you were going for disc brakes.

Hollister makes a decent kit. Also Toms Classics (Auto-City from Isanti, MN) has an Ebay store that sells a similar kit for 8 lug trucks.

https://www.hollisterroad.com/prodde...d=47-59SRWDISC

http://www.ebay.com/itm/1955-1956-19...BSzy2r&vxp=mtr

So, You probably already know that the 3100 frontend is basically a direct bolt on. Make sure you get ALL the steering components from your donor, including the pitman arm.

For 6 lug rearends. The 55-59 trucks are a good place to look also. Since you're going for disc brake, the 03-2012 Chevy Colorado is a good place to look too. They were mostly drum brake, but there's kits out for them too. Nissan Frontier and Toyota trucks are also a good place to look. Nissan and Toyota went to 5 lug at some point, not for sure when though.

[PDW HOTRODS]

What trans are you going to run? Stock 1953 has a 1 pc driveline and rear end. You need 1955 or newer trans and an open driveline to use a newer rear end.

[Second Series]

I tried a 3.55:1 from an '88 ford, but had to start in 1st gear(granny). One axle was bent anyway, so I found a 3.73:1 from an '86 suburban that allows me to start in 2nd unless I'm starting uphill. I have four on the floor, you have 3 on the tree, so no compound low, something to think about. I had the driveshaft modified each time, no big deal. This is 8 lug on my truck and it works fine, the tires fit.

[1953]

This is exactly what I want, I want to keep the motor and 3 speed all the same all's I want is different bolt patterns and no drum brakes, I was hoping there was a solution to this that doesn't require a front end swap I'm ok with swapping rear end to get rid of the heavy duty 8 lug pattern

[dsraven]

you need to know your wheel track width. front and rear. then go to a site like crankshaft coalition and see what else is close. according to their website info the measurements are 125.25, 62.6, 52.1 -- 1947-'54 Chevy AD 3/4 ton. try this site for the tech page of specs. peruse through till you find something that will work and go from there.

http://www.crankshaftcoalition.com/w...l_measurements

[busjockey]

i have a 1948 3/4 ton chevy I had to replace the frame on and the spring hangers are still on the old frame. If you need one let me know. I live in Texas. I am looking for a part for my 3/4 ton rear axel. Lost the spacer between the upper and lower bearing on the shaft inside the rear end. Was thinking about using the original gears with an S10 transmission. Should be able to go 60 with that set up.

[whitedog76]

The rear on the HO52 rearend is 62.5 or like the previous post shows, 62.6.

The frame on the 3600 is narrower in back than the 3100's, so going narrower is always an option too.

[dsraven]

do you plan on using an independent front suspension to get the front disc brakes or just add the disc brake conversion to your solid axle? if you plan to swap out the front end with an independent type you may want to look at the scotts hotrod style. it uses a complete cross member that has both the upper and lower control arm pivot points already attached to it with the proper geometry built in. the cross member is either a weld in or bolt in style and then assemble all the peripherals like control arms, spindles etc. the issue with a mustangII style cross member is that the upper control arm pivot mount is a weld in and separate from the actual cross member. it makes it harder to know, from a layman's point of view, if the cross member and the upper pivot are in the right geometry in relation to each other. also, most guys (even online how to's) would use a bubble level to assemble the parts which is not as accurate as the one piece cross member idea which is welded up in a jig at the manufacturer so the angles should be right on for future alignment.
you could also check out a ford 8.8 rear axle from a mustang (centered pumpkin)or explorer (offset pumpkin). they come with disc brakes on some models and also posi. 3.73 ratio is common as well as large axle size. check out the ranger station online for more info. if you would be required to use a narrower track width some guys are using the offset exporer diff, narrowing the long side axle tube or simply pressing in an axle tube from the short side of another explorer diff and then using 2 of the short side axles. that would mean the pumpkin would be centered again. there is info about that online as well. they are a pretty heavy duty unit and if high performance is added later then a simple cast diff cover with torque down bolts to bear down on the carrier side bearing caps is recommended. some will say they need an axle bearing style change but I have personally never heard of anyone losing an axle from a failed bearing. that could also be done at a later date if you went with High performance engine. a friend of mine installed a high hp tubo'd chevy ls engine into his mustang and never had a problem with the stock diff that had the performance diff cover installed.
just some thoughts.

[1953]

I still cannot find replacements for my spring mounts/ hangers for my 53 chevy 3/4 ton so does anyone have another solution cause apparently finding original mounts is pretty much out of the question I'm open to new rear suspension options would like to lower the truck anyways.