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03-09-2017, 11:00 PM | #1 |
Registered User
Join Date: Jul 2015
Location: Pleasantville Iowa
Posts: 30
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Frame modification questions
I'm getting ready to have my frame sandblasted and painted very soon, but I thought I would ask a couple questions first...
Here are a couple things that I know I'm going to be doing later in the build, 1) relocate the fuel tank to the back. I've already removed the crossmember that will be in the way. Is there anything that I should consider for modifications in this area or anywhere else along the frame rails that may have a negative effect on the paint? 2) Lower the stance. I'm using the original crossmember that supports the drive shaft, and where the trailing arms attach and was wondering if it would be wise to add clearance for exhaust in this area? I don't want to see any of the exhaust when I'm finished so I'll want to keep it as high as possible inside the frame... Is this possible without running the pipe through this member? Again I'm trying to reduce the need to cut on the frame after it's cleaned and painted. I'm not "C" notching the frame because I'm not dropping it so much that it's necessary. Panhard bar relocation... Shock relocation... I understand that all this is directly associated to how far I drop the truck, so at what point will it be necessary to start doing these things... 4" 6" drop? Is there something else that I might want to consider before we start spraying paint? Thanks in advance |
03-09-2017, 11:22 PM | #2 |
Post Whore
Join Date: Feb 2016
Location: Portland Oregon
Posts: 11,246
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Re: Frame modification questions
Just for perspective here is a photo of my Burban's exhaust dumps. (PO installed) If you notice the end of the pipe is ground off from dragging. My Burban is bagged with no C-notch or dropped spindles. In the back ground you can see the pieces of tubing I installed in the cross member so I can run the exhaust on out the rear. This will prevent any further dragging of the exhaust on street transitions or speed bumps. If you have a short bed you may not have this problem. Hope this helps.
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Thanks to Bob and Jeanie and everyone else at Superior Performance for all their great help. RIP Bob Parks. 1967 Burban (the WMB),1988 S10 Blazer (the Stink10 II),1969 GTO (the Goat), 1970 Javelin, 1952 F2 Ford OHC six 4X4, 29 Model A, 72 Firebird (the DBP Bird). 85 Alfa Romeo If it breaks I didn't want it in the first place The WMB repair thread http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=698377 |
03-10-2017, 01:43 AM | #3 |
The Older Generation
Join Date: Aug 2006
Location: Montezuma, Iowa
Posts: 25,603
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Re: Frame modification questions
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A couple of things to think about. Where is the fill neck on the tank you will be using? That may affect the frame. Some builders cut holes in the trailing arm cross member to run the exhaust through to keep it up higher. Here is a picture. I think these are 4" with a 2 1/2 in exhaust They need to have a piece of 3/16 wall x 1/2" slice of tubing welded to the inside of the hole. LockDoc
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Leon Locksmith, Specializing In Antique Trucks, Automobiles, & Motorcycles (My Dually Pickup Project Thread) http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=829820 - |
03-10-2017, 02:27 AM | #4 |
Senior Member
Join Date: Sep 2014
Location: Wenatchee, Wa
Posts: 919
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Re: Frame modification questions
Locdoc has a better pic of the crossmember mod but I am doing the same as you. No c notch with a 2.5" drop spindle in the front and a 4" shorter coil in the rear. (all ECE stuff) Remove the stock rear shock mounts and buy an adjustable panhard bar.
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03-10-2017, 06:23 AM | #5 |
Senior Member
Join Date: Jun 2009
Location: Belews Creek , NC
Posts: 4,220
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Re: Frame modification questions
I do not see any way you could not see the exhaust unless it run through the cross member, if you look in the above pics anything below the trailing arm cross member is going to be visible, unless you are standing right up against the truck. If you have not blasted or painted the frame yet why not do it now ?
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Larry It is easily overlooked that what is now called vintage was once brand new. "Project 68" paypal.me/ldgrant |
03-10-2017, 07:07 AM | #6 | |
Registered User
Join Date: Jul 2015
Location: Pleasantville Iowa
Posts: 30
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Re: Frame modification questions
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03-10-2017, 07:32 AM | #7 | |
Registered User
Join Date: Jul 2015
Location: Pleasantville Iowa
Posts: 30
|
Re: Frame modification questions
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03-10-2017, 07:14 AM | #8 |
Registered User
Join Date: Jul 2015
Location: Pleasantville Iowa
Posts: 30
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Re: Frame modification questions
AWESOME pictures!! Did you need to buy the shock mount relocating kit for your build?
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03-10-2017, 02:37 PM | #9 | |
Senior Member
Join Date: Sep 2014
Location: Wenatchee, Wa
Posts: 919
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Re: Frame modification questions
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Drilling the old rivets out is easy just make sure you use a sharp 1/8" bit for a pilot hole and finish with the larger one then wack the rivet head with a chisel bam! Referring to Midnite blues post above I used a Hedman "Hedder" mid length and didn't need to notch the frame. The only thing is I have to run the shorty Accel plugs to clear the header. |
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