Stress relief coils in brake lines?

[siggyfreud]

How many of you are bending coils into your brake lines when doing a new setup? I think I got my flaring down, and now starting to run lines. Have gone through about 6' so far that I scrapped. Trying to get my bending down with the tool wherein I don't crimp the line and do a smooth 90*. Using copper.

Was fairly easy to do a stress coil around a can of glass cleaner, but wondered if it's worth the time?

[PGSigns]

I do them on my trucks.
Jimmy

[lolife99]

Never add the coils.

[siggyfreud]

Originally Posted by lolife99

Never add the coils.

Can you elaborate a bit? I'm all for saving work, just curious why you recommend it so strongly.

[lolife99]

I prefer to clean look of well run lines. I see no need for the coils.
If it was a line that was constantly be connected and disconnected I would understand the need.
To me it's like adding coils at the wheel cylinders or any other connection for that point.

[Keith Seymore]

Originally Posted by lolife99

I prefer to clean look of well run lines. I see no need for the coils.
If it was a line that was constantly be connected and disconnected I would understand the need.
To me it's like adding coils at the wheel cylinders or any other connection for that point.

It's because there is relative motion between the cab and frame during use.

The cab is mounted on the body mounts with the master cylinder hard mounted to the cab; the brake lines are hard mounted to the chassis. The cab will move between a quarter and a half inch due to jounce or twist.

Something's gotta give.

No relative motion between the wheel cylinders and the axle tube, which is why the brake lines can be hard mounted to the tubes (the suspension travel is taken up in the center with the rubber hose).

K

[lolife99]

Originally Posted by Keith Seymore

It's because there is relative motion between the cab and frame during use.

The cab is mounted on the body mounts with the master cylinder hard mounted to the cab; the brake lines are hard mounted to the chassis. The cab will move between a quarter and a half inch due to jounce or twist.

Something's gotta give.

No relative motion between the wheel cylinders and the axle tube, which is why the brake lines can be hard mounted to the tubes (the suspension travel is taken up in the center with the rubber hose).

K

I understand GM's intent on building brake lines to last 40+ years.
(99-06 silverados excluded).
If there's not enough flex in a steel line that drops from the M/C to the frame to keep the steel line from severing on a truck that I drive,... then I will add the coils to my next project or daily driver.

[cg285]

nothing to do with severing the line

[hewittca]

Originally Posted by Keith Seymore

It's because there is relative motion between the cab and frame during use.

K

Without knowing any better, this is always what I assumed the reasoning was, and I believe Keith when he says it. I have noticed, however, quite a few custom builders forgoing the coils for a cleaner look, and always wondered how wise that was. I suppose it's ok if there's at least some bend in the line and not just a straight shot, or maybe they are using solid body mounts...

[VictoriaHardware]

Originally Posted by Keith Seymore

It's because there is relative motion between the cab and frame during use.

The cab is mounted on the body mounts with the master cylinder hard mounted to the cab; the brake lines are hard mounted to the chassis. The cab will move between a quarter and a half inch due to jounce or twist.

Something's gotta give.

No relative motion between the wheel cylinders and the axle tube, which is why the brake lines can be hard mounted to the tubes (the suspension travel is taken up in the center with the rubber hose).

K

If you are making custom lines and there is sufficient freedom, coils are not necessary. Steel tubing will bend and twist without harm as long as they are given room. Say the master cylinder-to-frame line is held tight with a clamp to the body down near the frame. If the line is also held tight to the frame not far from the body clamp, then it could be a problem. If the two clamps are spaced further then you're OK. There are lots of vehicles without factory coils.

It also stands to reason that the factory did it for a good reason. If there was ever a chance to shortcut something and save 1 cent, they did it. They also had to design for the WORST case condition for 100K miles, which these trucks are probably not going to see again.

[Keith Seymore]

Originally Posted by VictoriaHardware

They also had to design for the WORST case condition for 100K miles, which these trucks are probably not going to see again.

This is true.

We also have to accommodate build variation from truck to truck across 1.5 million vehicles, which the enthusiast would not have to comprehend when doing 1 vehicle.

K

[ryanv70c10]

Originally Posted by Keith Seymore

It's because there is relative motion between the cab and frame during use.

The cab is mounted on the body mounts with the master cylinder hard mounted to the cab; the brake lines are hard mounted to the chassis. The cab will move between a quarter and a half inch due to jounce or twist.

Something's gotta give.

No relative motion between the wheel cylinders and the axle tube, which is why the brake lines can be hard mounted to the tubes (the suspension travel is taken up in the center with the rubber hose).

K

Exactly and the only thing that I would like to add that is every time you hit the brakes, the booster and master will move a bit as well. I am used to unibody cars so I always put coils right below the master

[cg285]

i put them in at the master cylinder. there can be flex in the body to frame which is why they are their. at the rear they are attached to the differential which has no flex.
done correctly they look great AND professional.

using copper is a big no-no unless you are referring to the 90-10 copper/nickel

[siggyfreud]

Originally Posted by cg285

i put them in at the master cylinder. there can be flex in the body to frame which is why they are their. at the rear they are attached to the differential which has no flex.
done correctly they look great AND professional.

using copper is a big no-no unless you are referring to the 90-10 copper/nickel

I'm using copper nickel line. https://smile.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B01...?ie=UTF8&psc=1

See any issues using that?

[cg285]

Originally Posted by siggyfreud

I'm using copper nickel line. https://smile.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B01...?ie=UTF8&psc=1

See any issues using that?

already stated

[racecougar]

Put me down for the "no coils" camp:

[abig84]

Originally Posted by racecougar

Put me down for the "no coils" camp:

i see nothing wrong with that. even a lot of new cars are doing away with the coils for like a braided section of brake line coming off the master. you just need something for movement of the cab from the frame. you just dont want to right a straight bend going directly down then screwed to the frame that would probably be bad

[indymachinist]

If you don't want to run coils, then don't run coils. But don't try to justify what you are doing by suggesting the coils don't serve a purpose.

[siggyfreud]

Interesting spectrum of answers here. Given that I haven't heard any negatives in regards to running them, other than perhaps aesthetics, I'll opt to include them in my setup.