I-6 out and a 454 in.

[Johnny Merder]

Guys, I have a 1967 C/30 it has a I-6 with a 4-speed transmission. I haven't done this before but I'm sure if I remover the 6 the 454 will "bolt in"?

I was a little concerned about the mid-mount trans but it looks like it will fit with the propper frame mounts.

Any advice would be appreciated. I'll have the 6 out by the weekend, I was just making sure there weren't any surprises.

Thanks

['68OrangeSunshine]

Originally Posted by Johnny Merder

Guys, I have a 1967 C/30 it has a I-6 with a 4-speed transmission. I haven't done this before but I'm sure if I remover the 6 the 454 will "bolt in"?

I was a little concerned about the mid-mount trans but it looks like it will fit with the propper frame mounts.

Any advice would be appreciated. I'll have the 6 out by the weekend, I was just making sure there weren't any surprises.

Thanks

What kinda L6 are you pulling? If it's a 292 I'd be interested in the passenger side engine mounts [perches]. The old mount won't fit a V8.

[projectking]

I have v8 mounts if they would work for you, I also have the squarebody style.

Pm sent

[In The Ten Ring]

Sending you a PM.

[randy500]

The 454 should fit where the I6 was but the engine sits very close to the firewall. If you have the 250 I6, the motor mounts on the 454 will land where the I6 frame mounts are and everything should bolt up.
I think the engines look silly that far back but they were mounted like that in the 4wd trucks (no factory BB 4wd were made though).
You should be able to make the clutch linkage work with the ball that threads into the block just below the head, it works that way on a small block and pretty sure it can be done with a big block too.
The radiator hoses are pretty long so custom ones will be needed.
You can probably make a small block ran shroud come close to the fan with a fan spacer.

If it were me I would buy all the factory big block parts for the install, its much, much cleaner install and all fits together nice. And it looks better too.

[dave`12]

I pulled my 250 and replaced it with a small block. You most likely have some of the same issues I did. I have the 4 speed as well.

Major issues I had:

I had to get custom brackets for my powersteering and a/c. Hopefully your 454 already has them, they were a pain. And I had to do some grinding there as well.

As stated above, the engine will sit quite far back. I had to take the cap off the HEI to get the engine in. I was tempted to not use the I6 motor mount location, but that would be a bunch of work getting the driveline to match, so it's the best option.

I originally had a clutch fan and long spacer to reach the factory v8 fan shroud. Bad idea, the combo turned out to be to heavy and tore up my water pump shaft which destroyed my belts and caused the spacer to move (twist). I was lucky the engine was at idle in the driveway at the time. I changed to electric fans.

The clutch linkage bolt to the block will be needed as stated above. I cut off the bottom lever on the z-bar and re-welded it in a new location to get it to clear the headers, you should check your exhaust before putting the z-bar back on. Also, a new issue, the linkage rod to the clutch fork (lower) slid towards the engine a couple of days ago when I pushed in the clutch because I had changed the angle. I had to move it back so that I could shift and get home, a temporary fix. So I'm going to have to figure that out before I can drive it regularly.

Biggest problem by far, and one I'm still dealing with, is that the starter bolts to the bell housing. This puts the starter quite low, and there are not good ones out there that you can get that will fit the new set up. I currently have the I-6 starter on there, but it's so close to the exhaust that I'm having hot start issues. A respected member here has told me that the best solution is to get a high torque starter and change the nose cone. I haven't done that yet due to the cost. A heat shield and 2 guage battery cables did not solve the problem. If I were you, I would look into this before the swap, save yourself my pain.

I had issues getting the right hoses. For me, the answer turned out to be a carefully bent coathanger and a nice guy at the parts store that let me go through all his hoses until I found one that would work. I found a lower radiator hose from a 2010 Ford Sport Trac that worked perfect for my upper hose. Go figure. I have a generic hose on the bottom.

If you have any questions, let me know I can try to help. Or just check out my threads, lots of answered questions and pictures.

Good luck.

[67/Heaven]

I am looking for an add on pulley for the main crank if it has one I would be interested in purchasing

[Johnny Merder]

Ok guys, thanks for the feedback. I was doing some checking after I got the 6 out and it looks too close to the firewall. I know there are different engine mounts, are there different mid mounts for the trans? There doesn't seem to be a way to use a traditional transmission cross member and delete the mid-mounts that I can tell.

thanks

[Johnny Merder]

To be more clear, I guess I am asking if the mid-mount transmission mounts can be moved forward? and if anyone has done it?

thanks guys

[randy500]

Originally Posted by Johnny Merder

To be more clear, I guess I am asking if the mid-mount transmission mounts can be moved forward? and if anyone has done it?

thanks guys

The V8 bellhousing crossmember is different and I have not seen a post where someone has tried to move it forward, it would be funky at best since it would be moving up the rise in the frame.
There are some posts showing them side by side for comparison.

[randy500]

Z bar engine bracket for big block, pics in this thread

http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=645246

[dave`12]

There are 67 C10's out there with big blocks, I think it will fit using the I-6 mounting location.

Is the big block longer than the small block? I personally put in a small block and they absolutely fit.

You can mount the engine further forward but one thing leads to another. The transmission moving forward, driveshaft lengthening, shift linkage, clutch linkage, all kinds of small stuff to deal with.

[Johnny Merder]

Thanks for the additional help guys, I'm going to just buy the v8 mid-mount and big block frame stands to make this a better deal. if anyone has the pivot ball and or any clutch linkage let me know.

thanks

[ghalperin]

I'm doing a similar engine swap. I'm in the parts finding stage and I'm about ready to start the swap. I would suggest placing a WTB ad in the parts for sale section. You can look at my build thread to see the parts that I've collected.

http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=712697

[Johnny Merder]

Thanks for the tip, and the link to your build thread.

JM

[Johnny Merder]

Here are a couple of pictures of my engine and my truck. I used 2003 GM wheels on front and rear, I had to change the studs front and back to make them work properly.

[randy500]

Your engine looks like it has a good chance of fitting based on the placement of the PS pump, the pump could work or be very close to not hitting the frame rail. Are you using an electric fan?

[randy500]

Second look, PS is probably a bit low, show us the ex manifolds if your using them.

4spd right? If its 127" wheel base I have a 4spd driveshaft for a 3/4 ton, should work. I guess I could re-box the stuff you already bought and put it in there too.

[Johnny Merder]

I will post more pictures later

[72 tigger]

Nice project & shop! Looks like you have a jib crane? Those are handy- we have a bridge crane in our shop

[Johnny Merder]

Here are those pics, thanks for the compliments on the project and my shop.

[randy500]

I saw that crane too and the nice floor. Now I see you have a really nice engine stand too, looks like the snap-on one with the gear drive to turn it over, those are heavy duty, I have one too but never use it because its so wide and bulky, great for big blocks though.

Exhaust manifolds are stock type so your good to go. I hear Pypes headpipes DGU 20S are close to fitting our trucks, think drivers side needs some fitting, other side should fit.

['68OrangeSunshine]

Nice mill!

[Johnny Merder]

Thanks, the engine stand is actually a NAPA brand, but it is a little bulky.

I built the jib crane, the post is made from a 3/8 wall underground gas line.