New Custom Camper Owner... and total newbie

[drew8mc]

Hello all,

I am proud to say I am the caretaker of a '68 Custom Camper as of one week ago.

I've tried inserting an image, but the links not working.

What I know:
It has a 327. From the engine code I've deduced it is a 250 hp Powerglide AC motor. It is not original. The previous owner said it had a hot cam in it, but didn't know the specs. He bought it built as it was. It's mated to a 4 speed overdrive out of a later Monte Carlo. I need to get under and find the stamped code. It has been lowered. Rockers have been redone (although not particularly well). Inside front passenger fender is in the worst shape rust wise. Floor pans are decent. Bed wood floor is basically gone. The rest of the box looks good.

Besides the cosmetic issues I'm having one issue in particular that I'm hoping the experienced members here can help me troubleshoot. This is my first time really wrenching on anything, so I'm a total rookie when it comes to working on cars.

It will stall when put in D or R. Idles OK, but a little erratic, jumping up and down about 50 rpm when idling below 1000. Runs fine above 1000, sounds good and drives well. I just have to 2 foot it and keep the throttle depressed just a bit to keep it from stalling at red lights. Also, the vacuum brake booster will not work without some throttle as well. At idle there is no assist.

I've read as much as I can about the issue and I have done two minor things so far that have not solved the problem.
1. I've tried to adjust the Edelbrock 600 cfm carb idle and mixture screws. Idle wants to be either 750, or 1200. It does not want to stay anywhere in between. Mixture screws don't seem to be doing much of anything.
2. Some of the first things I've read about these problems is a vacuum leak. I have tried to check for leaks with Carb cleaner and found none around carb, manifold, or hoses. All unused ports on the carb are plugged. I have a vacuum gauge on the way to help see what the numbers are.

I'm hoping others can give me more items to check as possible solutions. I'll then learn as much as I can about how to do it, and go after it.

Thanks,
Drew

[jocko]

Welcome! And Pics ASAP!! Ha.

Eliminate vac leaks first (look for hardened lines - they can hide them easily, and look for an obvious port with NO hose on it, and also check the vac advance line from carb to distributor - and it sounds like you've done all this already) - then recommend check the initial timing with an inductive timing light - as best you can, not so easy when your rpm is all over the place, so you may need to adjust slightly, then see if you can calm your idle down, the adjust again, etc.

If that doesn't work - may be new carb time! Pitch that edelbrock and rebuild an old Q-Jet for fun!

[wshattuck]

congrats Drew,,, welcome to the forum! the wealth of knowledge here will be invaluable!!

good luck and welcome!

will

[Steeveedee]

Spray the throttle shaft on the primary side of the carburetor, both left and right sides. If you haven't found a leak elsewhere, it is probably the throttle shaft leaking. This is common on the Edelbrock carburetors. You can have bushings installed in it to take up the wear, if that is what it turns out to be.

[weim55]

Originally Posted by Steeveedee

Spray the throttle shaft on the primary side of the carburetor, both left and right sides. If you haven't found a leak elsewhere, it is probably the throttle shaft leaking. This is common on the Edelbrock carburetors. You can have bushings installed in it to take up the wear, if that is what it turns out to be.

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[HO455]

Welcome aboard neighbor. Was this the gold or yellow one with the 2004r tranny on Craigslist? Your idle issue it may be as simple as the idle being set too high and making the idle screws unresponsive. As mentioned earlier check your timing. Be sure to disconnect and plug the vacuum advance hose before. Also make sure the hose is coming from the ported source. Most of the Edelbrock's have ported and unported vacuum hookups. You can down load an owners manual at their web site to help in IDing the correct port. Then try to lower the slow the idle by backing the idle screw out. You may have to change the timing to get it to idle again. If none of this helps get the idle screws to respond you will have to dig deeper.
Your lack of vacuum at idle may be to the "Hot cam". A camshaft with lots of overlap won't allow manifold vacuum to be very high at idle. This contributes to your idle issue as the carb is seeing a weak signal. You need 10-12 inches of vacuum for your brake booster to work, ideally you want at least 16 inches for consistent brakes. With the lower numbers you won't have vacuum if you pump your brakes. If this is the case there are some tricks to help but it may be easier to switch cams depending on what you want the truck to do.

[HO455]

You posted the pictures as I was responding. I had considered buying this truck to swap the drive train with my Burban's and then resell it, but the timing was just wrong. Looking at the carb photo I believe your vacuum advance is hooked to the correct source. There's a number stamped on the front of the carb base on the passenger side that is the ID number for your carburetor. It will help you figure out if you have a MPG carburetor or a performance version. The truck looks good. You have the upgrade 1972 doors. And marker lights are always a plus in my book. Congratulations.

[El Dorado Jim]

Originally Posted by HO455

You posted the pictures as I was responding. I had considered buying this truck to swap the drive train with my Burban's and then resell it, but the timing was just wrong. Looking at the carb photo I believe your vacuum advance is hooked to the correct source. There's a number stamped on the front of the carb base on the passenger side that is the ID number for your carburetor. It will help you figure out if you have a MPG carburetor or a performance version. The truck looks good. You have the upgrade 1972 doors. And marker lights are always a plus in my book. Congratulations.

I think you are all crazy, I don't see any pics......

[drew8mc]

Hey look! It matches my house!

[Orange67]

Any pics of the SPID (the label on the inside of the glove box door). Is it a true 1/2 ton Custom Camper? Awesome truck btw!!!!

[drew8mc]

Indeed, this one was a Craiglist find, and I think you are right about the 2004r Tranny so it must be the same one. Vacuum advance is connected to the passenger side port. The middle larger port is connected to the passenger side head. The break booster is connected directly to the manifold. There is a plug in the rear port on the carb.

[drew8mc]

[HO455]

Nicely optioned. Factory tach and tinted glass.

[jocko]

Dude, you kinda struck gold! Pun intended. Nice truck, congrats. Also might want to check the plug wires for the correct firing order. Probably not the issue if it's running fine at higher rpm, but worth a look.

[feller]

200 4r's are great trannys if built and tuned right. There are lots of guys more knowledgeable than I about them, but I do know that the TV cable needs to be set right or they won't run right at all. Welcome to the board and congratulations on a nice new to you truck, keep it alive.