Install of Old Air AC system and not that cold.

[Kw69]

Hey guys,

Well I finally got the new Old Air Hurricaine system installed and charged today. Proper Ac charge and no leaks, but was only blowing about 60 degrees out the vents. The fan is a factory 5 blade with clutch and the truck had original AC prior. Do I need to update the fan and clutch to a plastic unit? I'm using the original 5 blade all metal fan, and for all I know this could be the original clutch as well. I see the fan turning, but don't really feel any air pulling through the condenser. I did read about needing a 6 blade fan according to the instructions. So I'm thinking the fan or clutch is the culprit. If so what should I get? Should I go 6 blade plastic? Anybody run into this problem before? Thanks in advance! BTW I don't want a flex electric pusher fan if possible.
Kris

[leddzepp]

Was that temp while the truck was sitting still and idling? If so try driving it or put a box fan in front of it while it is idling and see if that makes a difference.

[Kw69]

Yep while at idle, I did put a box fan Infront of it and it dropped to 55. The fan still seems to pull air and I can feel it easy. I put a piece of paper towel Infront of the condenser and it sucked to it and stayed. Kinda out of ideas. I have not driven it very far yet, plan to on Friday after I get home. I was unsure if anybody had any tricks to this retro u it.

[kwmech]

How much, and what juice did you put in it?

[Steeveedee]

Did you evacuate the system, first? Was the system left open for any length of time? If these two answers are yes, you have air and moisture in the system. This will make it so that it doesn't cool well. Did you replace the receiver/dryer? That should have been replaced, if the system was open.

Also, show us a picture of your setup under the hood. When the AC is running, the fan clutch should lock up and blow up a storm of air. If you barely feel it, it's probably slipping.

[dennislbrooks]

I have Old Air Hurricane in my 67. I run a clutch fan and shroud off a BBC which probably is not your problem. Mine pushes out 40 - 45 degrees on max -high fan vehicle moving. Higher temp sitting idling. How does it cool off idle? say moving at say 1500 rpm?

Also Old Air which I think is in Ft Worth - that is where I got mine in 2005---- will assist you with a problem.

[Andy4639]

A couple of things to do.

First check and make sure your heater valve is shut off good. Hot water passing through to the heater core will keep the temps up in the cab. Even just a small amount passing through. I run a manual valve to make sure it off.

2. I wouldn't go by bubbles in the system. 134A doesn't work like that you may have over charged it. 134 A doesn't matter if you see bubbles. Most 134 a system don't even have sight glasses.

I would pull some out and see if it drops the temp. To much freon is as bad as not enough.

[Kw69]

HI,

Yes evac for 30 min, R134A at 32 ounces. Did it at home using gauges, so 2.5 cans used (total of 32 ounces max per instructions), and had head pressure at 210 and low was 35-40 at 80 degrees. Hope I did all that right...system is brand new so not siting open prior install. No leaks, and the sight glass shows no bubbles. Was showing bubbles at 24 ounces then after 30 was clear. The temp on
Y dropped to 55 when a fan was placed Infront of the truck. Otherwise was at 60 at the vents. I did check tonight again and air is moving from the fan pretty good. U can feel it easily at the front of the engine. I'm stumped..... I'm sure it's simple, I have heard theses units get really cold in the cab. I have new door seals, and I think the cab is pretty tight as it can be. I know the older trucks are not perfect tight for sure.

[67ChevyRedneck]

Are the controls electronic or manual? Have you confirmed the heater hose valve is closing completely?

[Kw69]

They are electric, how to confirm if the valve is closing? I have not yet, if so is there a trick.

[weq92f]

Just feel for heat down around the floor heater outlet when it's heated up to operating temp. It should be obvious.

-klb

[Southcity]

For the heater valve on these systems check the set screw (small allen head screw) on the heater valve servo motor. This actuates the heater valve (close or open), usually right at the firewall in the engine bay. To make an adjustment loosen the screw, turn the AC on high (you can watch which way the servo motor shaft turns) then tighten the allen head set screw well. This should ensure the valve is fully closed when running the AC.

[randy500]

A/C cooling is all about temperature drop...what is that number, its the only number that matters at the vents and is dependant on the system, does that system give a number for temp drop from ambient? If it doesn't you could go by whatever the GM number is. If your getting the proper temp drop it should cool the cab.

[Andy4639]

Even with the valve shut all the way doesn't ensure the valve closes all the way. Get the truck up and running and if you feel any thing inside the cab hot then you need to add a manual valve. I have one in each of my AC vehicles.
I put the manual in the line that the cable are electric valve isn't in. This will make sure the heat is off when the AC is on. Also make sure both drivers & passenger floor vents are shut!

[Kw69]

Good deal guys thanks for all the suggestions. I worked on it today and filled it to 36 ounces per the company. The rep on the phone told me 36 instead of 32. Also I checked the heat on the hoses going into the fire wall. I believe the valve needs adjusting. If that doesn't work then I will add the manual valve. The rep also told me about the set screw and to send the heater valve back for replacement if I can't adjust it. I'm sure that I can given what you guys just posted. Appreciate all the help guys! Thanks again! Will keep u updated.
Kris