Wheel bearing help...

[trac209]

Ok here's my dilemma of what is going on,I was tracking down a what I thought was upper ball joints and after replacing those I noticed my wheel bearings seemed to be causing the issue. They were a bit loose,washer was floating around and nut was loose but cotters was there. This is most likely my fault since I put the new bearings in few years back and didn't somehow set them well enough possibly. So since it's cheap insurance I bought new bearings,old ones looked mint and spindles show no wear.

So even after I installed new bearings using the tighten nut while spinning tire I always used in the past to seat the bearing and remove free play then backing of one flat spot of nut to put in cotter it seams washer is too tight? And yet if I back off too much the wheel has enough free play I can feel it. I had a shop press in the races so I know that's not the issue. Wheel spins nicely and doesn't make any noises. Thanks for any input.

[Steeveedee]

Do you have a factory service manual? There is a description in there on how to do this. Right out of the manual:

If you use a wrench to tighten the nut, spin the wheel and snug the nut, then back off 1/4 to 1/2 turn to get to a place where you can insert the cotter pin.

If you do it by hand, snug the nut and then back it off until you can get the cotter pin in. It should not even be left finger-tight.
There should be .001" to .008" end play.

You can't rely on the washer feeling tight.

[ElKotze]

If you're in between two spots, always choose the looser one. Too tight will destroy your bearing in no time.

[LockDoc]

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You can download the Chassis Service manual here....

http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s....php?p=5781194

LockDoc

[trac209]

Originally Posted by LockDoc

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You can download the Chassis Service manual here....

http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s....php?p=5781194

LockDoc

Checked service manual"reads press on hub firmly and install nut and cotter pin,slightly vague. Thanks though there's lots of good links there

[trac209]

Ok well I'll see if I can find a happy medium between the two,I'll recheck to see if the nut is more than finger tight where it is with the cotter out. Thxnks for the the input guys

[trac209]

I will add that isn't it important that I don't have any free play in the wheel? If a quarter turn back more makes the bearing loose I would think that it not possible to be too tight as I have it now.

[Steeveedee]

Originally Posted by trac209

I will add that isn't it important that I don't have any free play in the wheel? If a quarter turn back more makes the bearing loose I would think that it not possible to be too tight as I have it now.

If you don't leave clearance for thermal expansion, you'll turn those bearings to toast in short order. That's the reason for the free play I cited earlier.

[trac209]

Originally Posted by Steeveedee

If you don't leave clearance for thermal expansion, you'll turn those bearings to toast in short order. That's the reason for the free play I cited earlier.

I realize there's need for some expansion,I just have a hard time thinking I should be able to see the hub and feel wheel moving without it having far more than .001 to .008 clearance like the manual reads.

I've never heard anyone respond yet that a little rocking motion is normal and I've never had any of my older vehicles with similar bearings run like that. From my experience when I torque the nut to 15 foot pounds and back off one flat to put in cotter per manual the nut is not left being finger tight. Finger tight would leave the washer hence bearing floating around with way to much end play.

[ElKotze]

Here is how I do it for years: Tighten the nut snug to seat the bearing then back off until wheel spins freely. Re-tighten until you feel the wheel starts to drag, back off to next hole to put pin in and wheel spins without drag. Yes, you will have some lateral play when you rock the wheel.

[trac209]

Originally Posted by ElKotze

Here is how I do it for years: Tighten the nut snug to seat the bearing then back off until wheel spins freely. Re-tighten until you feel the wheel starts to drag, back off to next hole to put pin in and wheel spins without drag. Yes, you will have some lateral play when you rock the wheel.

Well the lateral movement is what I don't understand why you would want the wheel to move laterally and rock the bearing around . I adjusted for as close if not zero movement and took for 30 min drive in stop and go traffic,hub never got to even what I would consider hot at about 115 degrees F taken with laser tester. Could rest my hand on it easily.

Only reason asked any of this is searching threads here and read so many various thoughts I talked myself into thinking I've been doing this wrong for years. As per manual it's tighten to seat and back off to next available cotter hole. Nothing about nut being finger tight when done or wheel having any play in it,why you want any lateral play in the wheel and in a bearing is beyond me. Backing off the nut 1/6 from seated position should well yeld the required .001 to .008 clearance imho. I do appreciate the responses and I'll keep an eye on the bearings just in case.

[ElKotze]

Stop and go traffic won't face your bearing. Drive 65 mph for 20 min. and then check again. If you tighten until wheel stops spinning and then back off to next hole , it will be too tight. The lateral play is the clearance you need for expansion. Look at your bearing and race, they are build to take some lateral play. When it comes to wheel bearings, just remember : too loose is better than too tight.

[trac209]

Originally Posted by ElKotze

Stop and go traffic won't face your bearing. Drive 65 mph for 20 min. and then check again. If you tighten until wheel stops spinning and then back off to next hole , it will be too tight. The lateral play is the clearance you need for expansion. Look at your bearing and race, they are build to take some lateral play. When it comes to wheel bearings, just remember : too loose is better than too tight.

I never tightened it until wheel stops spinning,only 15 pounds per what manual reads while spinning rotor and back one flat to put in cotter and check for smooth wheel turning. I'll keep a close eye I suppose I could drop down one setting and see how it tightens up when warm

[HO455]

Remember you are setting the bearing clearance for all conditions. Not just the day you installed the bearing. Driving loaded down a long grade, on a hot summer day, using your brakes a lot, is the day your adjustment is going to cause problems if it is too tight. The spindle OD will get larger and the ID of race in the hub will grow smaller the hotter it gets. (Hot enough to leave a scar is normal. Don't ask. ) Having a slight amount of lateral movement is the time tested method of setting these bearings up. GM (and most of the rest) did the cheapest and easiest method that would work. So a little play may not make sense from an perfect engineering viewpoint, but it works and doesn't require extra adjustments for temperature or a complex self adjuster. If you still feel the play is too much, run them a couple of hundred miles loose and readjust them if possible or add a shim to remove some of the play. Just don't forget you're setting them for the worse case.
I forgot to add each roller/ball bearing will grow in size too.

[72.4me]

Good read..makes me want to check on mine..thanks

[trac209]

Originally Posted by 72.4me

Good read..makes me want to check on mine..thanks

Post results if you do lol

[SierraMtns]

Good read. I feel ready to do mine tomorrow.

[ubtripn]

Now I feel like I need to check mine, I installed the races myself with the Harbor Freight kit but I don't think I backed it off any to put the cotters in. However, its been rolling fine in all seasons for five years so there is that...