Belltech lowering spindles

[dec010974]

Hello to all. I have a set of Belltech #31200, lowering spindles that were basically given to me. My c10 is a 1980 squarebody. I want to know can I jerry rig and use these spindles for my suspension? I have referenced the ball joint/tie rod part numbers and it seems that the upper ball joint seems to differ. Is it possible to use an upper control arm from a 1971 or 1972 c10? the Belltech spindle I have is spec'ed for a 1971-72 c10 truck. Safety is priceless to me. Thanks in advance, Clark.

[dec010974]

it also seems that the tie rods are different. Hhhhhhmmmmmm, this changes everything.

[5spd540]

I would say sell them and buy the correct parts for your application.

[PGSigns]

The ball joint will go right in your arms. If you go to the 60 to 66 section in the FAQ section there are good threads on spindle swaps. We put the 73 and up stuff in our truck all the time. There are solutions in there for the tie rods also.
Jimmy

[lolife99]

Originally Posted by dec010974

Hello to all. I have a set of Belltech #31200, lowering spindles that were basically given to me. My c10 is a 1980 squarebody. I want to know can I jerry rig and use these spindles for my suspension? I have referenced the ball joint/tie rod part numbers and it seems that the upper ball joint seems to differ. Is it possible to use an upper control arm from a 1971 or 1972 c10? the Belltech spindle I have is spec'ed for a 1971-72 c10 truck. Safety is priceless to me. Thanks in advance, Clark.

Change your upper ball joint and outer tie rod to the 71-72 version and you will be good to go.

[dec010974]

@PGSigns, and @lolife99, thank you. I figured someone would know the answer.

[dec010974]

Hello to all. Just to update this thread, I bought the necessary parts to use the Belltech spindles. I'm trying to install the rotors, onto the spindles but the castle nut is blocking the cotter pin hole. Is anyone familiar with this? If I tighten the castle nut, to install the cotter pin, the rotors spins with a lot of resistance. I would like to use a shorter castle nut. I assume a shorter castle is not an option. Thanks in advance. Clark.

[lolife99]

Are you sure you have the correct bearings?

[dec010974]

ill check that out.

[dec010974]

Hello. I check the bearings, new and old, and they appear to be the same. I installed the old bearings with the safety washer and castle nut and the same results, I can't get the castle without jamming up the rotor.

[lolife99]

Did you get the wrong rotors?
They make two different rotors for the 73-87 trucks..
1" and 1.25" width.

[dec010974]

Well, I spoke to a tech guy from Bellevue and he stated that the rotors, 1.25 thick are the correct rotors. He asked me to send/email pics, which I will, and he told me he will get back to me. Maybe there was a ma honing error or something. I'm tempted to buy the correct spindles and call it a day. So my free to me, spindles aren't free at all. They actually cost more since I bought tie rods and upper ball joints for the '71-'72 C10. My truck has been torn down for a week, immobile on Jack stands and the wife is looking at cross eyed. It might be down for another trying to sort out these issues. The results of this acquisition boils down to time and money, which one do you want to spend?

[dec010974]

A shorter castle nut, washer combo may do the trick, but I don't want to compromise safety.

[dec010974]

I inspected all (4) castle nuts, stock and lowering spindle, and they are all the same. I went to the auto parts store and purchased a new brake, rotor assembly just see if there is a difference from the old brake rotor. The new brake rotor assembly cost me 60 bucks. I know some of you are thinking why buy a new assembly, but I want to learn from this experience. As I think about dilemma over and over, i wonder if i can mill the castle nut a few thosandths, so that the cotter pin can be installed. problem solved, right? I would hate to spend $120.00 to solve a $10.00 solution. Ill post pics and inform you all of the results.

[dec010974]

Hey y'all. I made it thru the woods. I ended up cutting the castle nut basically in half. I was able to install the cotter pin, once the cuts were made. Tell me what you think. I'm back in the game

[dec010974]

I want this lower. Is this considered a 5/7 drop?

[dec010974]

I really want this.

[gringoloco]

Well, that's new...

[dec010974]

Hello to all. I want to start of by saying, "I'm sorry to all those I may have offended. @bbc10, @Lolife99 and possibly @Tx FireFighter, "I'm truly Sorry". I was attempting to be a funny guy, making fun of that pic and my expectations, but it blew up in my face. bbc10, Lolife99 and Tx Fire Fighter, you all are very knowledgeable about this stuff and I would hate to lose a possible, internet friend or more. I lowered my truck, with the intentions to try and get close to that pic, but It seems I have a ways to go. I guess The joke was on me, considering I busted my butt, because in my mind, I thought I nailed it. On this one, I gotta say, I learned a valuable lesson and it wasn't about a truck. Watch what you type. And again, "I do apologize". I'll go wait, in the time out corner, until I'm given permission, to play with you all in the sand box. And again, My intentions are never to offend anyone. Good night all.

[dec010974]

Lol, somebody that understand my sarcasm, thank you.The truck suspension mods are complete for now. I need to do some body work. But Sooner or later the truck will be sold. I want to build the ultimate truck. To build the ultimate truck, its gonna take some coins. I am thinking, a C10 that Lays frame, L92 or variant for high horsepower, maybe coil overs, or a roadster shop suspension/frame. Who knows what the formula will consist of. Ijust know i want it to bad ass. Here she is for. The drive train is a 5.3/4l60E, in it stock from. It also needs a camshaft and a tune for performance.

[lolife99]

Like I said in your PM reply it's hard to read sarcasm on the internet.
No hard feelings here.
Keep on truck building,...

[gringoloco]

well, that took a turn for the better

[Tx Firefighter]

My feelings were never hurt.

[dec010974]

Hey, it's lonely in this corner. To all my truck friend, if I have any friends after my sarcasm, can I come out of this corner? It's stuffy and boring. To all reading this post, I'm being sarcastic. I mean no harm.

[LT7A]

Come on out man and let us know what you decide to do with your ride height. You might want to email McGaughy's and ask them about their use of that truck. With yours, it looks like you could lose an inch or so in the back to get your ride height dialed in. From there, I think you might need to increase your wheel and/or tire diameter. I personally like a little more rubber wrapping the tire. Helps with ride quality too. If you are running 40 series tires and bump to 50s, you might start to move toward that "tucked" look.