Cam suggestion

[SPUdMurphy]

Hey guys,

Im sure this has been covered many times, but I searched and couldn't really find what I was hoping to find.

I am rebuilding the motor in my truck as whoever rebuilt it last did not torque down one of the rod caps properly, so it started to back off. Thankfully I didnt spin a bearing, but I had to have the crank machined.

Anyway, here is my motor specs, and I need a suggestion for what cam to go with:

- 355 with cast flat top pistons
- Edelbrock performer air gap intake
- Edelbrock 650cfm carb
- Stock cast heads

The motor had a crane energizer cam in it previously (which is worn to the point of needing to be replaced), and the stock heads couldnt take it, and so now im buying some other stock heads as I can't afford to get into Alloy heads right now, and I just want the truck back on the road.

Any suggestions for the best cam to run to get the best increase in low end torque without causing damage to the stock top end?

CHeers,

Ryan

[custom10nut]

Are you going to run an auto trans? If yes, then the Crane Energizer 268 is about a big as you can go on a stock torque converter. Any bigger and it won't idle right, hurting both performance and economy around town. Have an engine machine shop "pin" your rocker studs and you'll have no problems. "Big and Lopy" sound cool, but they take away any hope of economy, and require more maintenance to keep things tight and running smooth. Hope this helps

[BIG ORANGE]

Not sure if yr going this direction but I bought a new Comp Cam and lifters from Summit Racing and a matching stall convertor 2600) fits a 350 Turbo trans. Ran it less then 500 miles and then changed to a different cam and transmission 700R4
I would be willing to sale the matched cam,lifters and Stall for $250.00 plus shipping. I can get you the cam spec when I get home from work.
Donnie

[geezer#99]

Originally Posted by SPUdMurphy

Hey guys,

Im sure this has been covered many times, but I searched and couldn't really find what I was hoping to find.

I am rebuilding the motor in my truck as whoever rebuilt it last did not torque down one of the rod caps properly, so it started to back off. Thankfully I didnt spin a bearing, but I had to have the crank machined.

Anyway, here is my motor specs, and I need a suggestion for what cam to go with:

- 355 with cast flat top pistons
- Edelbrock performer air gap intake
- Edelbrock 650cfm carb
- Stock cast heads

The motor had a crane energizer cam in it previously (which is worn to the point of needing to be replaced), and the stock heads couldnt take it, and so now im buying some other stock heads as I can't afford to get into Alloy heads right now, and I just want the truck back on the road.

Any suggestions for the best cam to run to get the best increase in low end torque without causing damage to the stock top end?

CHeers,

Ryan

A few things to consider.
If the cam was worn (wiped a lobe)to the point of needing replaced I hope you hot tanked the motor to clean it thoroughly. Otherwise you're taking a chance you won't spin some bearings.

If you plan on running your truck anytime below 10 C (50F) then get a different intake. Those unheated air gaps are a pain.

What's wrong with the stock heads?

With your lack of compression (likely near 8.5 to 1) a bone stock cam is what you need. ONe that is no more than 200 degrees at .050.
Check this info.
http://www.crankshaftcoalition.com/w..._compatibility

[custom10nut]

Geezer, that is a GREAT link.

[SPUdMurphy]

Originally Posted by geezer#99

A few things to consider.
If the cam was worn (wiped a lobe)to the point of needing replaced I hope you hot tanked the motor to clean it thoroughly. Otherwise you're taking a chance you won't spin some bearings.

If you plan on running your truck anytime below 10 C (50F) then get a different intake. Those unheated air gaps are a pain.

What's wrong with the stock heads?

With your lack of compression (likely near 8.5 to 1) a bone stock cam is what you need. ONe that is no more than 200 degrees at .050.
Check this info.
http://www.crankshaftcoalition.com/w..._compatibility

Cheers mate.

The lobes didn't get wiped out, they are just showing signs of wear, and so are the lifters. I can take pictures and post if it helps. I was just told that they should probably be replaced whilst we're in there.

Apparently the cam was too big for the springs based on the machine shops measurements. 11 of 16 valves were worn and the guides are hard and also need replacing.

I don't care about it being lopey, I just want more low end torque.

[randy.powell]

So if you're looking for low end torque look at Howard's Roller Cams also. My Motor has roller everything in the valve train, flat top pistons, Edelbrock performer intake and 1406 carb. Double hump big valve heads. Original block (.030 bore). With that setup on the dyno she. Put out 377 horses @ 5100 rpm and 398 ft pds of torque @ 3600 rpm. I'll get my cam seet later and post the model number when I get out to the shop later today. I'm running a BTO stage 2 700 r4 with 1800 stall converter. That girl surprises alot of people and very streetable. I'll post the cam # later.
Randy

[mikecaddy500]

Comp cams 260h is a nice cam pretty close to stock with a little more torque.

[Mike C]

Originally Posted by mikecaddy500

Comp cams 260h is a nice cam pretty close to stock with a little more torque.

This is a great cam for a street vehicle. It compares to the Crane 266 which I have run with great success. Especially in an SM465 equipped vehicle. They both are 210 degrees duration at .050 lift.

If you have an auto trans stay below 220 degrees duration at .050 and if you have a manual, stay below 215 degrees and you should be good to go.

[SPUdMurphy]

Originally Posted by Mike C

This is a great cam for a street vehicle. It compares to the Crane 266 which I have run with great success. Especially in an SM465 equipped vehicle. They both are 210 degrees duration at .050 lift.

If you have an auto trans stay below 220 degrees duration at .050 and if you have a manual, stay below 215 degrees and you should be good to go.

Thanks mate, I appreciate the reply.

I will look into the specs you specify.

Cheers,

Ryan