Task Force Radiator

[FAKKY]

Hey guys
Been few a few threads ...... but cant really determine for TF (more AD).

Have the stock support and radiator.
What are you guys using ? How do you know if the old radiator has enough capacity for cooling (LS engine in end).

I found these.

http://www.usradiator.com/chevrolet-...-radiator.html
(requires notch of support and $450)

http://www.usradiator.com/chevrolet-...-radiator.html
stock - $420

https://www.speedcooling.com/1955-19...-Radiator.html
$250

and crazy cheap ....

http://www.ebay.com/itm/3-ROW-FULL-A...3D271962252076


Anyone used anything else - like out of a parts truck without major modification. Also what are you doing for fan shrouding off engine etc and clearance.

Just planning ahead.

[FAKKY]

Looks interesting

http://www.championradiators.com/Ame...d-v8-1955-1959

This one came from this thread (roger55)

http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...light=radiator

[roger55]

Originally Posted by FAKKY

Looks interesting

http://www.championradiators.com/Ame...d-v8-1955-1959

This one came from this thread (roger55)

http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...light=radiator

I am happy with the radiator but the fan and shroud combo ended up not working too well. I only had enough clearance for that slim-line type electric fan and I think the shroud hindered natural flow through the front and through the engine compartment.

It ran cool enough around town but would get hotter on the highway. Hotter than I wanted it to.

I ended up changing to dual high output Spal fans and modified the shroud to fit those along with adding flap vents.

I also added a Dakota Digital PAC-2750 controller and set it up to control the fans with a 2-speed system using 3 relays.

I'm extremely happy with the cooling now. Plenty cool on the highway and in town with the A/C on with 100+ temperatures.

[roger55]

Also,
Check out this guy's TF LSx build:

https://www.trifive.com/forums/showt...t=97044&page=6

Radiator info starts at post #208.

If I had it to do over, I'd probably do what he did. But, he did this after I had already did my install. Mine is only cooling a 305. For an LSx, I'd opt for a cross-flow radiator.

[FAKKY]

Thx for update Roger.

Can you explain the wiring ..... In case I end down that road

[AB6DO]

Hoses is not a problem if you are willing to invest a little time at "FLAPS"

[roger55]

Originally Posted by FAKKY

Thx for update Roger.
Can you explain the wiring ..... In case I end down that road

The Dakota controller uses one engine coolant temperature sensor and is programmable to switch fans for low and high speed at temperatures you select. The 3 relays are wired to run the dual fans in series for low speed and in parallel for high speed.
DC motors run in series will run the fans at half-speed and when run in parallel they run at full speed.

Here's a diagram I wrote that shows how to connect them with the pin numbers on standard Bosch type relays. The wiring schematic I used for as a guide for this came out of a GM shop manual. GM used this setup for many cars before they went to a PWM type system.



Grounding he "L" wire runs the fans at half-speed (series). Ground both the "L" and the "H" wire runs the fans at full-speed (parallel). The Dakota controller will do that at the temperatures you set.

The Dakota controller also has an input for an A/C trinary switch. That allows the controller to switch the fans to full-speed when the A/C requires it based on high-side pressure.

[FAKKY]

That last one right now is probably the one I would go with ....... any considerations for an LS engine in terms of outlet positions ?
And AC. Assume can hang any condensor of certain size in front.

[FAKKY]

*think* the ports are

1.25 upper
1.50 lower

think thermostat is ... actually not sure

might have to use a reducer of some sort ...

http://www.jagsthatrun.com/Pages/Par...eSplicers.html

[OrrieG]

I am using a stock radiator out of a big truck. Same bolt pattern as the original but 1" thicker and about 4" deeper. I kept it in the stock 6 cylinder location and used a shroud. Had it tested before I installed.

[OrrieG]

Originally Posted by OrrieG

I am using a stock radiator out of a big truck. Same bolt pattern as the original but 1" thicker and about 4" deeper. I kept it in the stock 6 cylinder location and used a shroud. Had it tested before I installed.

This weekend I charged my ac with the truck running sitting in the garage for half an hour. Air temp was 85 in the garage. Truck never got above 195, I'm pretty happy with that.

[FAKKY]

Originally Posted by OrrieG

This weekend I charged my ac with the truck running sitting in the garage for half an hour. Air temp was 85 in the garage. Truck never got above 195, I'm pretty happy with that.

Bumping this up as 1 year later with the engine/trans bought and transmission rebuilt Im not too far from getting the engine/trans into the engine.
Who says progress is slow.

Orrie - what was the truck you took the radiator out of ?
Think I am still going to go with the champion/american eagle ...... limnited lifetime warranty - only bad thing I can really find is that they are made in china.

https://www.performancecooling.com/1...tor-fan-combo/


versus american .... almost 2x the price and doesnt have the best reviews.

http://www.speedcooling.com/1955-195...um-Shroud.html

Then its a step up to griffin around $700.


Roger - I'll be doing an LS swap. I was going to buy the DIY kit here
https://www.bp-automotive.com/produc...i-24x-engines/

But worried about the 30A for dual fans.

Also - how are the fans generally controlled - by a static switch or via PCM.
eg

https://www.lsenginediy.com/upgradin...ric-fan-guide/

[mikebte]

Originally Posted by FAKKY

Bumping this up as 1 year later with the engine/trans bought and transmission rebuilt Im not too far from getting the engine/trans into the engine.
Who says progress is slow.

Also - how are the fans generally controlled - by a static switch or via PCM.
eg

https://www.lsenginediy.com/upgradin...ric-fan-guide/

Little late for my feed back, but I purchased the cheap Ebay radiator 10+ years ago and it still runs cool with my Small Block V8. I used duel 10'' electric fans. I have towed a lot with it as well with no overheating. 3 core if my mind serves me right.
I also ran dual fan controls from Flex-a-lite. (I ordered one and Ebay sent me two?)

Ether way, the controllers still work. Many other option look better such as Dakota Digital.

Link for my controller being used.
https://www.flex-a-lite.com/accessor...ol-module.html

[59chev]

No Pics right now but I had my stock radiator re-cored with a copper 3 row. This was done about 15 years ago when I first got my truck on the road.

[FAKKY]

how much was that.
Think biggest issue now is finding a radiator that will work well for LS swap ..... as well as fit in the radiator support.

Might just have to go with one of the links and use a bunch of adapters/reducers. But guessing wont have a better idea until engine is in.

[dsraven]

the other thing you can do is find a rad the right size and then use a short piece of hose to connect to a piece of steel or aluminum tubing with the right bends to get over to the engine, then another short piece of rubber hose to connect there. that way the steel or aluminum tubing can be swaged to the same size as the connections required at each end. hard walled tubing also flows better than a rubber hose, especially the corrugated rubber hose. a steel or aluminum tube can also be painted or polished (stainless) for that shiny look I that is what you like.

[yossarian19]

1.25 / 1.5" sounds right. Check siliconeintakes.com for silicone reducers, bends, etc - their tech guy said it's OK for coolant. Summit and Speedway sell silicone bends as well. Custom radiator hoses aren't as hard to build as you might think. You can use the summit online search to narrow down on OEM molded rubber hoses to cut up & use as well.

Radiator wise I re-cored mine & moved the filler necks. It was stupid expensive, but I can beat on my little 4.8 all day in any heat and the temp needle stays put.
Doing it again I'd buy an Ebay aluminum, put a Taurus / Volvo / Whatever OEM fan on it (or stick with mechanical) & build hoses to suit. Without road racing the thing I doubt you will overwhelm the radiator.

[FAKKY]

Originally Posted by yossarian19

1.25 / 1.5" sounds right. Check siliconeintakes.com for silicone reducers, bends, etc - their tech guy said it's OK for coolant. Summit and Speedway sell silicone bends as well. Custom radiator hoses aren't as hard to build as you might think. You can use the summit online search to narrow down on OEM molded rubber hoses to cut up & use as well.

Radiator wise I re-cored mine & moved the filler necks. It was stupid expensive, but I can beat on my little 4.8 all day in any heat and the temp needle stays put.
Doing it again I'd buy an Ebay aluminum, put a Taurus / Volvo / Whatever OEM fan on it (or stick with mechanical) & build hoses to suit. Without road racing the thing I doubt you will overwhelm the radiator.

Well were the heck you been

siliconeintakes I have used before for trucks/turbos etc .....


Dont want to have my oem reworked .... some things like the body I like OEM and would do anything to keep (parking brake cable .... foot starter switch) ..... everything else rather fit with the engine and increase performance and rideability - just me

Most of the ebay versions I see dont have the steam port/valve and dont have the right inlet/outlet ...... and the ones that offer it for LS engines are like $800
Crazy.

So ... either something that works from parts (i saw a thread someone mentioned trailblazer radiator ..... but not sure how much work involved) ... or go with the ebay ones for like $400 with a fan and aluminium fan shroud ..... and then adapt the hosing ....

Basically becomes one of those threds where looking for someone to say

sure ..... grab a radiator off a <x> and it bolts right in - you just flip it $50.

lol

[59chev]

Originally Posted by FAKKY

how much was that.
Think biggest issue now is finding a radiator that will work well for LS swap ..... as well as fit in the radiator support.

Might just have to go with one of the links and use a bunch of adapters/reducers. But guessing wont have a better idea until engine is in.

It cost about $400 Canadian dollars if I remember correctly. The original core was shot but the tanks and brackets were good so my local small town radiator shop replaced the core but re-used the original tanks. I had the same thing done later for my heater core.

[FAKKY]

Originally Posted by 59chev

It cost about $400 Canadian dollars if I remember correctly. The original core was shot but the tanks and brackets were good so my local small town radiator shop replaced the core but re-used the original tanks. I had the same thing done later for my heater core.

thanks

[OrrieG]

For hoses I just bend up a piece of coat hanger in the shape I need, note the sizes on each end, and take it to a real parts counter that will let you go behind the counter and look at what is available. No time to look them up but I ended up with one Ford that needed shortened a little for the top and GM for the bottom. I know mine is a 350 and not LS but process is the same.

[nail pounder]

I used the "crazy cheap" champion on eBay but with a mechanical fan on my crate 350. Bent some bailing wire to make a "template" for upper and lower hoses, went to my local NAPA and found some that had perfect​ bends but were too long, I just cut them down and it was done son.

[FAKKY]

Originally Posted by nail pounder

I used the "crazy cheap" champion on eBay but with a mechanical fan on my crate 350. Bent some bailing wire to make a "template" for upper and lower hoses, went to my local NAPA and found some that had perfect​ bends but were too long, I just cut them down and it was done son.

Thanks
yeah right now this is the winner (champion) then just make hosing to fit

http://www.ebay.com/itm/3-Row-1955-1...BVv4jT&vxp=mtr

Just going to have to deal with the inlet/outlet ports being wrong size and wrong position.

[FAKKY]

Yup
More worried about clearance coming out of that center port to thermostat .... as well as differing sizes on each end.

But worse case looks like you can adapt/step them down with two hoses etc.

https://www.danchuk.com/ItemForm.aspx?Item=17773

https://shop.advanceautoparts.com/p/...HETxoCDYHw_wcB

or most likely

http://jagsthatrun.com/Pages/Parts_D...r_Reducer.html

[62lwbc10]

I also run a cheap champion radiator with an electric fan on my crate 350/290 and she never overheats.