A/C System rebuild - what should I replace?

[Mattchu60]

My truck has A/C but it hasn't worked in years. When the engine was pulled last year the system was emptied (not much in it anyways) and when I reinstalled the engine, I just unplugged the compressor wiring so it wouldn't be used by accident.

Its been sitting empty for a long time. I would really like to get it working now. I believe the compressor is in good condition. What should a person condsider replacing in the system? I'm going to have the truck apart again soon so thought this was a good time to replace anything. I heard once that if they are empty some things should be replaced as air would ruin them- maybe it was the drier assembly? Any thoughts would be helpful.

Or should a person just go nuts and replace everything like the hoses, condensor, drier, evaporator all at once?

[moregrip]

Originally Posted by Mattchu60

My truck has A/C but it hasn't worked in years. When the engine was pulled last year the system was emptied (not much in it anyways) and when I reinstalled the engine, I just unplugged the compressor wiring so it wouldn't be used by accident.

Its been sitting empty for a long time. I would really like to get it working now. I believe the compressor is in good condition. What should a person condsider replacing in the system? I'm going to have the truck apart again soon so thought this was a good time to replace anything. I heard once that if they are empty some things should be replaced as air would ruin them- maybe it was the drier assembly? Any thoughts would be helpful.

Or should a person just go nuts and replace everything like the hoses, condensor, drier, evaporator all at once?

interested in this as well!!

[BamaDave]

Once I get to that point, I'm going to replace everything but the compressor and lines. Going back with R12 also.

[moregrip]

Originally Posted by BamaDave

Once I get to that point, I'm going to replace everything but the compressor and lines. Going back with R12 also.

How do you do that? lol, I'm a little AC dumb!

[Nick_R_23]

The biggest question is has your system been sealed this entire time? If so, then you'll probably be safe with a new drier and o-rings at each connection. If not, then it would be better to replace the whole system. You should be able to bring it down to a qualified A/C shop and have them do a flush and leak test to make sure none of your major parts are damaged or leaking.

[Mattchu60]

System is closed up - no open connections, but its empty of refrigerant and it was opened up with the compressor was taken off for the engine swap, so it has regular air in it right now.

I can get a new condenser, drier, and evaporator and A/C hoses from rock auto for about $250 -mostly Delco brand stuff

[Nick_R_23]

That's a good thing. Dirt is obviously not wanted in the system but moisture is really the biggest killer. Take it in while it's still together and have them do a flush/evacuation of the system to pull any of the old oil out, then replace the o-rings and drier and you should be good to go with new oil and a fresh charge.

[ApacheIvan]

Originally Posted by Nick_R_23

That's a good thing. Dirt is obviously not wanted in the system but moisture is really the biggest killer. Take it in while it's still together and have them do a flush/evacuation of the system to pull any of the old oil out, then replace the o-rings and drier and you should be good to go with new oil and a fresh charge.

What Nick said.

I just replaced everything, when I went in to have it serviced the first question they asked is if the drier had been exposed to air more than 20 minutes. If you replace anything replace that and all the seals, but make sure the drier is the last thing you do and do not pull the plugs from the joints until you are ready to install it.

[DieselSJ]

What year truck? Staying with R12 or converting to R134?

Either way, I say replace all and start fresh. By the time I finished chasing leaks, I ended up replacing everything anyway. And while you are changing the evap, change the heater core at the same time while you are in there. If you have a later truck with orifice tube then also replace it (and if converting to R134 then change it to a F*rd "blue" orifice tube). And go with a parallel flow type condenser if you are changing to R134. My A/C cools my cab so well that we actually get cold.

[Mattchu60]

Thanks for all the replies. Its already converted to 134 and I planned to continue to use 134 for it.

That raises a question - the orffice tube - they show you can the standard ones for like $1 and then they also list the automatic adjusting ones which are like $20. No idea if its worth springing for the $20 one or not.

[DieselSJ]

Originally Posted by Mattchu60

Thanks for all the replies. Its already converted to 134 and I planned to continue to use 134 for it.

That raises a question - the orffice tube - they show you can the standard ones for like $1 and then they also list the automatic adjusting ones which are like $20. No idea if its worth springing for the $20 one or not.

The adjustable suck. Just get a blue one. Application is pretty much any F product late 80's through present day. I used 2001 F150 as I used to own one.

[SCOTI]

Originally Posted by DieselSJ

The adjustable suck. Just get a blue one. Application is pretty much any F product late 80's through present day. I used 2001 F150 as I used to own one.

Curious? Why not just use the recommended unit for GM trucks?

[DieselSJ]

Originally Posted by SCOTI

Curious? Why not just use the recommended unit for GM trucks?

Because orifice size in the blue tube works best in systems converted from R12 to R134.

Go search the forums over at www.ackits.com and there are discussions about it.

[El Dorado Jim]

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