Anti theft replay question

[rockyrivermark]

I want to put some type of anti theft my newly restored '70 c10
The hidden kill switch idea seemed to easy for crook to find so I didn't try to hide it.
I have a series of 4 switch that each have 3 positions.
Middle is off. Up is one on and down is another one. They get attached to the plate under the steering column by dash panel and the plate will be bolted with tamper proof bolts.
Then I'll take the long route wiring up my dash pad and down to the appropriate connections. All taped up so you can see the colored wires. Again we are just trying to make it take longer so the thief bails
One switch will be power in and then jump to the next switch for HEI power. The other will be a break in the nueteal safety switch.
Finally getting to my question.
One of the switches will trigger to the horn and headlights.
I want to add a timed replay so it will run the horn for several seconds. If I run a new line to the horn with this relay on line will the horn run on delay when I try to use it at the steering wheel? What type of relay? Example or link ?
Pics below. Basically you will have to know which switch positions are needed to start the truck.
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[Grumpy old man]

Install a 3 on the tree ,They'll never drive it away

I'm looking at a rear mount tank and using the stock tank filler neck cut off the old tank and reinstalled in the side of the truck , flange the cut section and install it using windshield urethane sealant welding a bottom in the filler neck to mount a 2 position switch and use a locking gas cap. Now if I want not only is the truck safe but I can drop the keys in there lock the gas cap and just carry a gas cap key in my wallet or a magnetic key box under the truck and no one can see a bunch of switches hanging under the dash or the common blinking light . Oh yeah , Over insure it !

[rockyrivermark]

Originally Posted by Grumpy old man

Install a 3 on the tree ,They'll never drive it away

I'm looking at a rear mount tank and using the stock tank filler neck cut off the old tank and reinstalled in the side of the truck , flange the cut section and install it using windshield urethane sealant welding a bottom in the filler neck to mount a 2 position switch and use a locking gas cap. Now if I want not only is the truck safe but I can drop the keys in there lock the gas cap and just carry a gas cap key in my wallet or a magnetic key box under the truck and no one can see a bunch of switches hanging under the dash or the common blinking light . Oh yeah , Over insure it !

I like that! Brilliant.
I'm also going to move my tank just ran out of time and had to stop the spending for this year. Thanks for the info!
Mark
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[Swar]

Just remove the coil wire and take it with you to make it a 4,000+ lb paper weight.

[hewittca]

Originally Posted by Swar

Just remove the coil wire and take it with you to make it a 4,000+ lb paper weight.

That's pretty much what I do when I park in a place that I'm worried about. I have an HEI distributor, so I just disconnect the power wire but leave it hanging on the edge of the plug so it looks like it's connected. If someone figured that out I'd actually be impressed.

[rockyrivermark]

Originally Posted by hewittca

That's pretty much what I do when I park in a place that I'm worried about. I have an HEI distributor, so I just disconnect the power wire but leave it hanging on the edge of the plug so it looks like it's connected. If someone figured that out I'd actually be impressed.

I have an inline fuse by HEI and put in a blown fuse when I park it now. I also unplug the neutral safety switch.
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[rockyrivermark]

Originally Posted by Swar

Just remove the coil wire and take it with you to make it a 4,000+ lb paper weight.

Converted to HEI, coil now internal.
I did hear to jump two plug wires on the cap.
Make it just about un driveable
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[Swar]

You can also buy one of those removable keys that connect to the battery so you can take the key with you. I know this fear of theft very well, though. I've actually had nightmares about it! Very relieved when I wake up.

[kwmech]

Grounding the tach wire also renders the ign coil inoperable beit either HEI or points

[Marine-58]

I converted to a floor shift but still have the neutral safety switch on the column. Just turn it out of park. Not an easy find. After moving the shifter I forgot about this and spent a good 15 minutes trying to figure it out. Also the fuel pump is controlled with an unmarked switch. Even if they get past the neutral switch, it will only drive about 100ft, maybe...

[rockyrivermark]

Originally Posted by Marine-58

I converted to a floor shift but still have the neutral safety switch on the column. Just turn it out of park. Not an easy find. After moving the shifter I forgot about this and spent a good 15 minutes trying to figure it out. Also the fuel pump is controlled with an unmarked switch. Even if they get past the neutral switch, it will only drive about 100ft, maybe...

Do you have fuel injection. My is carbureted but I was looking for an electric solinoid shut off that I could splice in the fuel line.
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[Marine-58]

Originally Posted by rockyrivermark

Do you have fuel injection. My is carbureted but I was looking for an electric solinoid shut off that I could splice in the fuel line.
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Not fuel injection, I run a QFT 750 dual feed, dual pump. You can probably find a solenoid on the Web or someone on this forum would know..

[truckster]

Originally Posted by kwmech

Grounding the tach wire also renders the ign coil inoperable beit either HEI or points

Is there any risk of damaging the HEI module using this method?

[kwmech]

Originally Posted by truckster

Is there any risk of damaging the HEI module using this method?

I've never had a problem. I've been doing this since the late 70s. Originally did it on my 76 Van. Never had a module go out because of it

[HO455]

These guys will have what you are looking for.

http://www.wolstentech.com/products/...delayrelay.php

[TXBoudy]

Here's another relay you could use:

3 - 60 seconds, 12V

To answer your question, a completely separate line from the timed output of the relay to the horn will not interfere with the original line from the horn button. They will be 2 independent lines going to the same device except that one is timed and the other is instant from the horn button.

Now if you want to drive the horn and the lights with the timed relay, you need a way to isolate the two so that turning on the lights will not activate the horn. To do this, you could run the timed output to the horn and to a another relay. The second relay will provide 12V to the headlights when activated by the timed relay but will also keep the horn and lights isolated when the timed relay is inactive.

[rockyrivermark]

Originally Posted by TXBoudy

Here's another relay you could use:

3 - 60 seconds, 12V

To answer your question, a completely separate line from the timed output of the relay to the horn will not interfere with the original line from the horn button. They will be 2 independent lines going to the same device except that one is timed and the other is instant from the horn button.

Now if you want to drive the horn and the lights with the timed relay, you need a way to isolate the two so that turning on the lights will not activate the horn. To do this, you could run the timed output to the horn and to a another relay. The second relay will provide 12V to the headlights when activated by the timed relay but will also keep the horn and lights isolated when the timed relay is inactive.

Good point. Thanks!
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[TXBoudy]

Easier than a second relay, you could use a diode to isolate the two. That would allow + outbound to the headlights but would not allow + in the opposite direction from the headlights to activate the horn.

I could pre-wire something and send it to you if you like.

[Grumpy old man]

forget all the hoo haa , How about a 12 gauge and a pitbull with aids ?

[El Dorado Jim]

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8Cog6VE0VTE get the trunk monkey Lol