Cutting LWB steel floor down to SWB

[RedRider]

Hi all, I've been browsing around here for some time now gearing up to chop down my 1970 C10 using the new Brothers template.

I plan to purchase new SWB sides and use the existing front and tailgate. I'm having a hard time swallowing the $1k for a new steel floor though. I'd like to cut it down but am having a hard time finding the specifics on doing so; apparently it's not as simple as 8" off one side and 12" off the other. Any help on this? I'd prefer to stay away from wood.

I'm getting really excited for this project, and I hope to share it soon!

[Grumpy old man]

Save yourself some time and money sell your long bed and buy a complete short bed kit with your tailgate and a wood floor that will increase it value way more than a steel bed and definitely looks better

[RedRider]

Originally Posted by Grumpy old man

Save yourself some time and money sell your long bed and buy a complete short bed kit with your tailgate and a wood floor that will increase it value way more than a steel bed and definitely looks better

Yeah, that seems to be the consensus from people here. It's still going to get some use though, and I'd hate to scratch up a fancy wood floor. The LWB sides have some dents and dings, but the steel bed is still in relatively good shape.

[randy500]

Take 12 inches off of the floor between the front floor bolt and the next one back.
Take 8 inches out of the floor between the bolts in the floor at the rear, it's that simple.

[RedRider]

Originally Posted by randy500

Take 12 inches off of the floor between the front floor bolt and the next one back.
Take 8 inches out of the floor between the bolts in the floor at the rear, it's that simple.

^^^This is what I was looking for, thank you! Would I be able to cut it down and bolt it on, then weld it? Or do you need to cut, weld, then install? I can cut straight lines, but would probably have someone else weld it.

[AussieinNC]

I'm with Grumpy's suggestion...sell your long bed and upgrade to a short wood bed...

A wood bed adds so much more value...

I suggest you reach out to Gr8-68 on this board for pricing on wood bed...he hand makes and finishes each board...sweet...

As far as the concern about a wood bed getting some use...why not use a bed rug when you have a load on board...they are available from several suppliers...and not that expensive...

[67ChevyRedneck]

I was going to suggest "just doing it" but if you have to farm out the welding, it's not going to be cheap unless you have a friend that will do it for a six pack.

If you go the wood bed route, the front header panels are different, so be sure to get one for a wood bed.

Basically, you cut 12" out of the front, 8" out of the rear, and as long as you eliminate the "middle" braces, you've done it right. The other braces will line up with the factory holes, exactly like a factory shortbed.

I've done 2 of them now.

[B. W.]

Randy & Redneck are spot on, I did mine on the frame. After the sections are cut you can bolt it up in the correct position. I'm with grumpy too, I'd love to have purchased a bed kit, it would have sure save some time but I didn't have the money.

[RedRider]

So four cuts straddling each middle brace? Sounds too easy...

[67ChevyRedneck]

Use a long straight edge (I have one of those 4' steel measuring sticks) to make sure you're "flat". It can walk up and down on you, even if it looks flat.

http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...=609973&page=7

Originally Posted by B. W.

Randy & Redneck are spot on, I did mine on the frame. After the sections are cut you can bolt it up in the correct position. I'm with grumpy too, I'd love to have purchased a bed kit, it would have sure save some time but I didn't have the money.

I just wanted GM steel, so I cut down a beautiful AZ longbed.