New here, loaded question

[DogDish]

Hi all, I've been interested in restoring a 47-54 3100 for awhile, and I know some things to check for when looking for a builder.

One thing that is not clear to me, is how much I should be spending on the truck based on condition.

I know craigslist can be a nightmare, but are trucks like this:
https://dallas.craigslist.org/dal/ct...246981914.html

or this:

https://dallas.craigslist.org/dal/ct...249320771.html

Over priced? Is there any other tips you guys might have for me when buying my first project or better places to look for a truck?

[joedoh]

buy the best truck you can afford. rust repair will take years off your life and usually its better to buy a rust free cab from a grain truck or something that has been shedded than to try and bring back a truck thats spent 40 years on the fence line.

[dwcsr]

Here are some in your area

insane price, as in way to high

https://dallas.craigslist.org/dal/ct...234936923.html
https://dallas.craigslist.org/ndf/ct...221347222.html


resonable
https://houston.craigslist.org/cto/d...245555767.html

maybe
https://dallas.craigslist.org/ftw/ct...241721272.html
https://dallas.craigslist.org/dal/ct...246729342.html

deal
https://dallas.craigslist.org/ndf/ct...226939747.html

stay away from stuff like this, its not finished for a reason.

https://dallas.craigslist.org/ndf/ct...253582938.html

What ever you buy it must have a Texas title in the sellers name, not some guy from arkansas or maine that signed it 30 years ago. If they haven't taken the time to title it there maybe an issue with clear title, Ask them to get it titled and you'll add that to the purchase price. If they back out you know its a sketchy title or vin. They will tell you how easy it is to do it so you can do it your self, if its that easy and they haven't done it somethings wrong.

[MARTINSR]

Personally I would look for the one with a solid cab, forget the rest of the stuff it all can be bought one at a time. If you could be a truck cheap because the bed and fenders are smashed up junk and the cab is solid and you don't have to replace the floor and stuff, that would be killer. Then buy the parts you need when you find them in good condition for a good price as you are doing other work on the truck over the possible years you will be working on it.

You DO NOT need to have all the stuff at once, parts come along over time and if you keep your eye open they will fall in your lap.

DO NOT buy any reproduction sheetmetal outside of repair panels like floors or patch panels or that sort of thing, or the bed, or something simple like a valance panel, but that is IT, DO NOT buy reproduction fenders or hood or doors or anything like that, DO NOT! Just sit back and work on the truck and those original parts will fall in your lap. I have found this to be the truth over the years on every project I have ever done.

Don't make the mistake thinking you need everything at once, you have already made the first step, you have "moved into the community" well at least you are driving through the neighborhood. You need to MOVE IN to the Chevy AD (Advanced design, mid year 1947 to first series 1955) community and you will find that stuff is available, it's not that big of a deal. They made a zillion of these trucks and stuff is out there.

Brian

[vintovka]

And then theres the INSANE route of buying a whole new made Cab, fenders, etc and mating it with an s10 frame. I'l bet someone has done it.

[vintovka]

Originally Posted by vintovka

And then theres the INSANE route of buying a whole new made Cab, fenders, etc and mating it with an s10 frame. I'l bet someone has done it.

Just to quote myself and add I doubt any of the aftermarket parts would easily fit each other. sadly with some exceptions it might ve possible to assemble a truck with all Chinese parts.

[DogDish]

Originally Posted by dwcsr

Here are some in your area

insane price, as in way to high

https://dallas.craigslist.org/dal/ct...234936923.html
https://dallas.craigslist.org/ndf/ct...221347222.html


resonable
https://houston.craigslist.org/cto/d...245555767.html

maybe
https://dallas.craigslist.org/ftw/ct...241721272.html
https://dallas.craigslist.org/dal/ct...246729342.html

deal
https://dallas.craigslist.org/ndf/ct...226939747.html

stay away from stuff like this, its not finished for a reason.

https://dallas.craigslist.org/ndf/ct...253582938.html

What ever you buy it must have a Texas title in the sellers name, not some guy from arkansas or maine that signed it 30 years ago. If they haven't taken the time to title it there maybe an issue with clear title, Ask them to get it titled and you'll add that to the purchase price. If they back out you know its a sketchy title or vin. They will tell you how easy it is to do it so you can do it your self, if its that easy and they haven't done it somethings wrong.

If I wanted to go restomod I would assume this is a good start? Mustang II front end with a title in hand.

https://dallas.craigslist.org/dal/ct...215271579.html

[mongocanfly]

.https://dallas.craigslist.org/dal/ct...215271579.html
notice those 2 words..."project".."missing"..as in title...run run run...look elsewhere ..
luckily here in bama I wouldn't need a title..only bill of sale...maybe diff in tx.

[DogDish]

Originally Posted by mongocanfly

.https://dallas.craigslist.org/dal/ct...215271579.html
notice those 2 words..."project".."missing"..as in title...run run run...look elsewhere ..
luckily here in bama I wouldn't need a title..only bill of sale...maybe diff in tx.

He's got the title in hand, talked to the guy today.

[Dan in Pasadena]

Are you "restoring" per your original post? Meaning use the six cylinder, closed driveline, narrow tires, etc?

Or did you use the term casually and you want a modern V8, automatic, lowered, etc? If the latter you on't care if it has a driveline at all so don't pay for one when buying unless its already what you want!

[my56chevytruck]

You are right, a VERY loaded question, but let me give you my .02 worth. What are you wanting to do, restore or hot rod?? What abilities do you have; welding, sheet metal fabrication, body work, painting, in other words what ever your talents are, keep in mind, labor and parts will cost you a lot, none that you'll ever get back. Although all that in mind, I'd look for a solid cab, good floors as rust free as possible. There's so much that goes into redoing any car/truck, it's hard to say look for this over that. Some in the hobby love the original trucks whereas some (like myself), love the styling of the original but want the power and drive of aftermarket. So decide on whats your direction, be VERY PATIENT, parts don't need to come in all at once, and work on it when you can. Look at several before deciding to purchase, you can learn a great deal from each truck you look at. Best of luck, and go after your project.

[DogDish]

Originally Posted by my56chevytruck

You are right, a VERY loaded question, but let me give you my .02 worth. What are you wanting to do, restore or hot rod?? What abilities do you have; welding, sheet metal fabrication, body work, painting, in other words what ever your talents are, keep in mind, labor and parts will cost you a lot, none that you'll ever get back. Although all that in mind, I'd look for a solid cab, good floors as rust free as possible. There's so much that goes into redoing any car/truck, it's hard to say look for this over that. Some in the hobby love the original trucks whereas some (like myself), love the styling of the original but want the power and drive of aftermarket. So decide on whats your direction, be VERY PATIENT, parts don't need to come in all at once, and work on it when you can. Look at several before deciding to purchase, you can learn a great deal from each truck you look at. Best of luck, and go after your project.

What I want is a survivor that I can lock in the patina and fix what has to be fixed. As much as I would love to do an LS swap I don't think I have the experience to pull it off. I want to be patient and find the right truck as I am completely new to this. My father in law has space for me to work and all the tools needed to get the job done.

[mongocanfly]

agree with above. ..buy the best truck you can afford..it'll be cheaper in the long run..

[Foot Stomper]

Originally Posted by DogDish

What I want is a survivor that I can lock in the patina and fix what has to be fixed. As much as I would love to do an LS swap I don't think I have the experience to pull it off. I want to be patient and find the right truck as I am completely new to this. My father in law has space for me to work and all the tools needed to get the job done.

The patina took 60 years or more to get to "patina" so what is "locking in the patina "mean exactly?
If you like patina, then don't F with it because if you do, you don't have "patina".

Restoring an old truck teaches exactly how they were built. Once you've learned that, you're not going to be disappointed! Take the time to get the basics.

[DogDish]

Originally Posted by Foot Stomper

The patina took 60 years or more to get to "patina" so what is "locking in the patina "mean exactly?
If you like patina, then don't F with it because if you do, you don't have "patina".

Restoring an old truck teaches exactly how they were built. Once you've learned that, you're not going to be disappointed! Take the time to get the basics.

Thanks for the tip, and yes I an eager to learn more than anything...

[Black_Sheep]

I can only echo what some others have already said, buy the best truck you can afford up front, it will save you time and money in the long run. You will also have a better truck when it's all said and done...

[vintovka]

Even if you own it already it is easy to drop $30k on it in restoration and improvements if you farm out much of the work. Afraid restorations are rapidly becoming a rich mans hobby. (or a poor owner)

[OrrieG]

If you want one you can enjoy and drive NOW you can always buy one completed for less than you can do the work yourself. And if you decide a year or two from now it is not for you, you have a complete running truck to sell.

If you want the experience of rebuilding one than set the best one you can find with limited rust as others have said. If you loose interest in a couple of years and you bought it for the right price originally you should be able to recoup the cost of your parts, but labor will always be a write off.

There are guys here that seem to not have wifes, friends, girlfriends and enough money and time to redo one in 6 months. Others like me have worked at a different pace depending on time and cash on hand limitations. But I have always had another classic as a daily driver, so that was not part of the equation.

[Daze57]

I echo much of what was said ---- make sure you get a title ---clean title --not some B.S one ---its more trouble then its worth if it aint right.
my 02cents worth

[dsraven]

look for the best truck you can find. check several out and you will get a feel for where the rust commonly is hiding. remember these are old trucks and have had lots of time to have been in accidents and/or have body repairs done. lots of do it yourself stuff done over the years. don't take anybody's word for it being rust free and never in an accident, they may not know the history. lots of guys simply repaired the damage themselves. look in, under, around and over the trucks. check the roof drip rails, the floor, the cab mounts, the cab where the fenders mount up, rear cab corners, hinge pillars, door bottoms, box cross rails, rear fender mounts, tailgate, floor under fuel tanks and the actual fuel tank, frame, running boards etc for rust, damage, body filler, sheet metal screws/pop rivets, seams where there shouldn't be seams, that sort of thing. basically, check on here for the common rust repairs in build threads and you will seethe common issues and how things are put together. also check the aftermarket suppliers for common repair panels. that will give you an idea of where to look for rust.
compare you skill level to the amount of work required on whatever truck you get serious about. there also may be a member living close by a potential buy who may be willing to give an opinion before you purchase.
sit down and write up a list of what you want in an old truck. then post it on here and ask how you turn your potential buy (supply pics) into your "want" list. there will be guys who have already done the list before and will have a good idea of what you will need.

[mongocanfly]

title=good...if your not familiar with what to look for as far as AD rust you might want to find someome that is....rust can be a killer on these trucks..if its a texas truck that may be good...look closely at the floorboard ,cab corners,cowl and rocker section..also the belt line and around rain gutters...check the bottom of the doors also...from his pics it looks like a decent truck...I wish I could find local trucks in that price range...around here they would ask 7k or more for it

[DogDish]

Originally Posted by mongocanfly

title=good...if your not familiar with what to look for as far as AD rust you might want to find someome that is....rust can be a killer on these trucks..if its a texas truck that may be good...look closely at the floorboard ,cab corners,cowl and rocker section..also the belt line and around rain gutters...check the bottom of the doors also...from his pics it looks like a decent truck...I wish I could find local trucks in that price range...around here they would ask 7k or more for it

ok so I asked about floors and cab corners... here's the deal on the Mustang II frame truck. The guy building it died - this has been sitting in his shop while he worked on it. The cab corners and floors have already been replaced. I am asking for pics of the frame welds

[my56chevytruck]

some of those CL listings I'd most definitely shy away from. I would want to buy a running truck to begin with and like so many others stated, look around a lot. you'll start seeing where the common problems are.

[e015475]

My perspective is the same as most here. Buy the most rust-free truck you can find, but I'll add some dollar values based on recent experience.

Almost any complete AD truck is worth $1500 to $2000.

To replace cab corners, bottom of the a pillars, door bottoms, floorboards and straighten out the sheet metal to primer at the going hourly labor rate today is $8-10k.

So to have a solid foundation to do what you want with the drive train and other stuff is going to cost you between $10 and $12K

If I were to do it all over again, I'd look for trucks less than $10K with as perfect sheet metal as I could find. This is for a truck you'd do with a good paint job.

If you want to go the patina route and all you want is rust free but not dent free I'd lower the max amount to about $6K

Just my two cents

[gigamanx]

Please keep asking questions. This board has helped me a ton and I was in your exact position about a year ago. I ended up finding a truck in Oklahoma for $3500. It was complete and running...... well....close enough.

I patched a small amount of rust in my cab floor. I would hate to have to do a lot of that work because of how much time it takes. Certainly takes some skill and experience to get it right. I was practicing on a bunch of rusty steel bits I got from the recycling before I even touched the truck.

Looking at the pictures, the cab looks good, but ask for some of the interior. Things like dashboard, roof, floor, are probably difficult to repair. Some people have replaced an entire floor, but it takes bracing and knowhow for sure. In the end, the cost in time and patch panels ends up being more than a better cab would have cost.

If I could give any advice it is that there are very few shortcuts to take a truck like the ones you've posted and have your dream ride. It will take time and at least as much money as you've spent on the truck. I am at about $4500 on my build and that doesn't include the cost of the truck. Just parts to replace worn out things, steering column, wiring harnesses, bushings, cracked seams, window glass. Some people have been able to hock parts from other trucks to make a cheap build.... I personally think its 1 in 100 that get to do that. I had no luck at all being able to sell bits off to pay for the project so I wouldn't rely on that as a revenue stream lol.

The first link you posted is overpriced for how much rust is in that body.
The second link you posted is a good price, but I would be very, very careful that the title is correct for that truck and that the bed, conveniently not pictured, isn't a piece of junk. The title should match the cab plate. Make sure there's a cab plate You probably want pictures of the MII welds to get an idea if it was a hack job or not, otherwise you just bought yourself some new headaches.