The Old Yeller Resurrection Project

[RedRider]

**NOTE** I realize there are several "Old Yellers" on this board. I asked if we could change her name, but after 47 years she adamantly refused.

Hi all, thought I would introduce my new 1970 C-10 LWB project.

Well, not exactly new....

A little history: My grandpa bought this truck when I was just a little kid, and I have many memories tagging along with him in the passenger seat. Later, my Dad took ownership, where we pulled our family fifth-wheel on many camping trips. When I got my license it was handed down to me. I loved driving it throughout high school, but had to find something more economical once college started. Since then it's been in my parent's backyard in Northern CA, waiting for another stab at glory. Well, that time has finally come...







It's making the great voyage this week from Northern CA down here to San Diego. I think she will enjoy the warmer weather.

The "To-Do" List (in no particular order):

1) Shortbed conversion via Brothers template (needs new sides anyways, as you can see)
2) Engine tune-up (that is, if it starts after 12 years).
3) Interior
4) Paint

I'm really excited and looking forward to sharing this adventure with everyone!

[flashed]

Im in to see another Old Yeller .

[RedRider]

Welcome to San Diego!

[Joseph2001]

It's a 350, she'll start after sitting that long! My 72 drove home after 11 years in a Virginia cow barn. Beautiful truck, I'm looking forward to keeping up with this build

[RedRider]

Originally Posted by Joseph2001

It's a 350, she'll start after sitting that long!

Let's hope so!

For the record, here's what I did in preparation:
1) changed the oil/filter
2) pulled the plugs, shot 1/2 oz of Marvels Mystery Oil into each cylinder.
3) pulled the valve covers, spread some more MMO over the valve train.
4) siphoned out the old gas, added 5 gallons of fresh fuel.
5) hit the carb with some carb cleaner (didn't pull it apart though)
6) installed inline fuel filter upstream from carb.

Its had a day or so to marinate, so today I'll hookup the battery turn it over. If no problems, maybe throw the plugs back in and see if she'll fire.

[Joseph2001]

Sounds like you got it. I'd give her whirl and see what she does!

[Rickysnickers]

Good luck on the rebuild, neighbor!

[RedRider]

Originally Posted by Rickysnickers

Good luck on the rebuild, neighbor!

Howdy neighbor, small world! I see you have some experience with Edelbrock carbs, and advice for mine? Amazon has a highly rated rebuild kit, but part of me wants to just try it out and see if it'll fly after sitting for so long.

[Rickysnickers]

I am no specialist as far as carbs go! I rebuilt mine with limited results. I swapped it out for a Holley 670 Street Avenger. I'd be happy to try to help if you like.

[RedRider]

Originally Posted by Rickysnickers

I am no specialist as far as carbs go! I rebuilt mine with limited results. I swapped it out for a Holley 670 Street Avenger. I'd be happy to try to help if you like.

Went through the carb last night, pretty gummy inside. All the nooks and crannies made it tough to clean so I focused on the internals.



Am I correct that the 1406 is the 600 cfm version? If this carb gives me problems, maybe I'm better off getting a Holley Avenger instead of a rebuild kit.

[Rickysnickers]

Originally Posted by RedRider

Went through the carb last night, pretty gummy inside. All the nooks and crannies made it tough to clean so I focused on the internals.
Am I correct that the 1406 is the 600 cfm version? If this carb gives me problems, maybe I'm better off getting a Holley Avenger instead of a rebuild kit.

Yes, it looks like a 1406. I think it should be stamped on the side of the mounting flange as to what the part number is. And, yeah, that thing needs a good cleaning

[68Gold/white]

Of the E-carb and Avenger carbs, neither is better than other, wroking with what you have will be cheaper, and hopefully work out.The 1406 is the 600 cfm E carb that EVERY autozone and HO'Reilly's carries on hand, the box on display in these stores has a 1406 in it!!!
Auto tranny fluid is good to put in cylinders also. If it was mine, I'd try to rotate the engine by hand, either via that harmonic balance bolt or somehow turning the flywheel, first. Doing this BEFORE you reinstall the plugs, to be safe.

I hope it works out well!!! 71's and 72's are awesome, no need to convert to disc brakes, it's already done!!! Ford didn't get it right until 75...LOL

Carry ON!!!

[RedRider]

Moving onto brakes, I pulled the rear drums off last night (after an hour of pulling and prying) and it was not a lovely sight; a very rusty habitat for spiders. Even one of the nails had rusted off and released the spring.


So... decision time! do I...
1) Rebuild the existing drums (new drums, rotors, wheel cylinders, etc.)?
2) Consider rear disc brakes?


Another consideration at this point is whether I want to convert to a 5-lug rear axles. I'm finding the selection of 6-lug wheels very limited. Disc brakes in the front is a no-brainer, and I believe I can go with either 5 or 6 lug with that conversion. Any thoughts? I'm leaning towards keeping the rear drums, swapping to disc in the front and staying with 6 lugs.

[68Gold/white]

Rear disc brakes help stopping, but are not really needed, my opinion, strongly!

You can buy all the parts under the drum from a parts store. If you completely rebuild your rear brakes, now with the 6 lug drums, when converting to 5 lug the only thing you would have to do to the rear brakes is replace the drum with a 5 holer, may have to adjust brake shoes slightly, but that's all.

Both my 67 and 68 are inoperational at the moment, however when both get back on the road they will both be 5 lug and front disc equipped. NO DOUBT!

I do like the 6 lug front conversion deal. However I am not that familiar with the exact parts used.
The 71 and newer disc brake pickups have larger inner, and out bearings, I consider this to be a great improvement also.
If the 6 lug conversion comes with new spindles and the larger bearings, that would be a no brainer. I have been collection 5 lug rally wheels for a while, so, I will be doing the 5 lug deal regardless...

When you buy the bearings at a parts store, you can buy the bearing and race in a set. The disc break bearing sets are the numbers 5 and 3. The brand I sold, when I sold parts way back were A3 and A5, which were the part number designations for the sets.
The sets for the drum brakes were A6 and A2, both smaller than the disc sets.

Moser had been selling a pair of stock replacement axles for $260.00. I'm not sure if that price is still good. The axles are much stronger than stock units. You would have to tell them what you are doing, as far as converting to 5 lug. It may be best to measure your old ones also. Supposedly the 70 drum brakes axles are longer than all the earlier drum brake axles, beware.

What intake is that???

[RedRider]

Originally Posted by 68Gold/white

Rear disc brakes help stopping, but are not really needed, my opinion, strongly!

Agreed, probably going to stick with drums in the rear. Thanks for the input.

Originally Posted by 68Gold/white

What intake is that???

Edelbrock single plane - Torker I think?

[Rickysnickers]

Well, for my money, I'd go with disc brakes. I just like them better than dealing with drum brakes. Will the stop better? Probably not a whole lot, of course depending on rotor size and how pistons are in the calipers you elect to go with.

[68Gold/white]

There's a lot more headaches when going with rear disc. The emergency brake is one, if you do go rear disc DO NOT leave the emergency brake out!!!
Then you need residual valves in the brakes line(s), cat remember why...

IF you decide on rear disc, find someone that has the emergency brake inside the rotor. Many of the O.E. folks have brake shoes inside the rotor for the emergency brake, and run a simple hydraulic caliper for the service brake, that's the only way to go, none of that ratcheting caliper crap....

[Rickysnickers]

Originally Posted by 68Gold/white

Then you need residual valves in the brakes line(s), cat remember why...

I don't think that is entirely correct. Since his truck has the booster/master cylinder located on the firewall, there's no need for them. You should only need residual pressure valves if the master cylinder is located below the level of the caliper/wheel cylinders. In this case, they keep the fluid from draining out of those units.

If he does choose to go with front and rear disc, then he will need an appropriate disc/disc proportioning valve, or something similar to the adjustable Wilwood unit.

[RedRider]

Originally Posted by Rickysnickers

If he does choose to go with front and rear disc, then he will need an appropriate disc/disc proportioning valve, or something similar to the adjustable Wilwood unit.

I believe you're right, should just be a new proportioning valve. Do you have the Wilwood kit? I'm considering the front disc conversion kit from CPP, the one that Summit sells.

[Rickysnickers]

I have a power booster from Summit and Wilwood master cylinder on my truck, if that helps.

[RedRider]

Rear brakes: done. This website was a great reference:http://www.pbase.com/nufsed/drumbrake

[RedRider]

Moving onto the front now...

Front drums were in pretty good shape, too bad because it's getting gutted!


As you can see, 40 years of grime and dirt came falling out when I hit it with the impact gun.

Luckily, left side has been pretty straightforward, but man, that upper ball joint is a bear. I ground down the rivets, but can't get a good swing with a hole-punch to drive them out. Maybe a drill?

[68Gold/white]

Try to center punch the rivet head in the middle of the head. Get 3-4 new good drill bits. Get the bits in various sizes, starting at about 3/16", open up hole with next bigger size, till it's big enough...Use some kind of lubricant on the drill bits when drilling.

[RedRider]

Originally Posted by 68Gold/white

Try to center punch the rivet head in the middle of the head. Get 3-4 new good drill bits. Get the bits in various sizes, starting at about 3/16", open up hole with next bigger size, till it's big enough...Use some kind of lubricant on the drill bits when drilling.

It's hard to get a good swing at it from the top though. I'll try the drill bits and see if I can get it down all little closer before trying the center punch again. Thanks!

[RedRider]

So I took a gamble on this Harbor Freight electric impact gun and it's been a lifesaver. A pneumatic setup would be optimal, but I must say that it has been impressive dismantling the front end of this truck!