Vin codes ?????????

[grunt67]

OK, My Son bought this 1972 K20 4X4 the seller said it was built from 2 trucks and it has a rebuilt WA State Title VTR 04987
Cab has ID Plate Vin # CCE142S1411771 ????
Motor is a 402 I was told ? I found block numbers on the ft. of the pass side of block TO4O2TBJ ?????
Can any decode this mess ?
Thank You
grunt

[geezer#99]

T0402 TBJ
Decodes as
T- built in tonowanda
0402 is build date of April 2
Suffix code TBJ doesn't show up as being a 402 but does show up as being a small block.
You'll need to recheck that J is correct in TBJ. TBG or TBH show as a 1970 402.
Or just post a pic of your motor.

http://www.nastyz28.com/gm-chevy-cod...-suffix-15.php

[grunt67]

I was told it came from a Monte Carlo 402 ?
But I dont know for sure ?

[samkost]

Here you go:
http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=570059
Your Cab VIN states a 4x2 (not a 4x4) 1972 1/2 ton pickup with bed, V8 engine and built at the St Louis plant.

[GASoline71]

Post a picture of the engine.

A Small block will have 4 bolts holding each valve cover on... a Big block will have 7, 4 on bottom and 3 on top.

Gary

[randy500]

Didn't find engine code, are you sure it's correct, seems unlikely to have 402 in the code...
Vin is 72 1/2 ton 2wd, V8, made in St. Louis

[jocko]

Here is a big block first and small block second side by side so you know what to look for:

[grunt67]

It is a big block, but some one told me that 72 trucks never came with a 402 bb in them ???? The CC on the vins tells cab is a 2 wheel drive, but it is a 4X4
and the seller told me it was built from 2 trucks, ?? The top pic is what we have.
Thank You for the help

[special-K]

Probably a '72 Big Block C/10 body swap onto a 4wd frame. The 402 went in trucks starting in '70. There were no big block 4wds till '77 when it was a 454 in a K/30. The frame has a partial VIN on it, but it really isn't important. Your truck is titled accordingly. Y
You can check some things to verify it's a '72 K/20 frame. Does it have an HO52 rear? Both rear shocks mounted forward? Is the cab sitting directly on original cab mounts? Are the front ends of the frame cut off, and is the radiator core support moved back on the frame? If the answers are yes, yes, yes, no, and no it's a pre-73 chassis.

[grunt67]

Thank You for all the great information !!
Grunt

[grunt67]

Originally Posted by special-k

probably a '72 big block c/10 body swap onto a 4wd frame. The 402 went in trucks starting in '70. There were no big block 4wds till '77 when it was a 454 in a k/30. The frame has a partial vin on it, but it really isn't important. Your truck is titled accordingly. Y
you can check some things to verify it's a '72 k/20 frame. Does it have an ho52 rear? Both rear shocks mounted forward? Is the cab sitting directly on original cab mounts? Are the front ends of the frame cut off, and is the radiator core support moved back on the frame? If the answers are yes, yes, yes, no, and no it's a pre-73 chassis.

ok, i checked out everything, it is a 72 c-10 body on a k-20 4x4 frame an eaton ft end, dana 60 rear end, now i can not find the suffix code " T0402TBJ " any where, i want to get a new intake for it but is it a tall block(truck) or as the seller told me it was out of a monty carlo 402 ci, but i do not know the year ( i tripple checked the stamped code on pass. Side of block in ft. Of head.

[GASoline71]

For whatever reason Big Blocks were also badged as "400" on these trucks. Making a lot of people think they have small block 400's. Another GM anomaly.

Gary

[grunt67]

Well I pulled the dist. had it check out at local speed shop, they say it is fine, I put a 680 Holley quick fuel, 12 Degrees Advanced timing, vacuum hose hook to timed port, runs great untill we hit a hill, pings knocks, sounds bad !!!! I did order a new Booster for the power brakes waiting on it, that dam noise just will not go away, do not know what to try next ??? Checked for vacuum leaks around intake , none, this is making me crazy !!!!!!!!!
Grunt

[geezer#99]

Originally Posted by grunt67

Well I pulled the dist. had it check out at local speed shop, they say it is fine, I put a 680 Holley quick fuel, 12 Degrees Advanced timing, vacuum hose hook to timed port, runs great untill we hit a hill, pings knocks, sounds bad !!!! I did order a new Booster for the power brakes waiting on it, that dam noise just will not go away, do not know what to try next ??? Checked for vacuum leaks around intake , none, this is making me crazy !!!!!!!!!
Grunt

Have you proved your timing tab/balancer is correct with #1 at tdc?

[grunt67]

Yes, number 1 up to top, balancer mark on zero ?
This all started after we installed a Tac to the white wire on the MSD box, as it showed in the wire diagram , also installed Volt meter , seems like from that day on is when all the pinging started, but I can not see that causing all the darn pinging when motor get warmed up to 190 ??????????

[grunt67]

Originally Posted by grunt67

Yes, number 1 up to top, balancer mark on zero ?
This all started after we installed a Tac to the white wire on the MSD box, as it showed in the wire diagram , also installed Volt meter , seems like from that day on is when all the pinging started, but I can not see that causing all the darn pinging when motor get warmed up to 190 ??????????

I found the pinging problem !!!!!!!!! Initial timing was set at 14 degrees, but at 3000 rpm it shot up to 50 degrees in a heart beat, iput in the silver heavy springs, reset timing at 12 degrees, that got rid of 95 % of that pinging ,truck runs great, I bought a new dist and having a engine builder set up the new Dist. to what he thinks it should be for this engine, also put a new coil on it.
So glad to finaly get some where with this engine.
I WANT TO THANK ALL YOU GUYS FOR YOUR GREAT INPUT.
The old Grunt in WA. State.
"" WELL THAT DID NOT LAST LONG, AS SOON AS THE MOTOR GOT WARMED UP ., PING, PING PING !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

[geezer#99]

Proving it means using a piston stop to find true tdc.
Like here.
http://www.crankshaftcoalition.com/w...op_dead_center

Maybe you should bypass the msd crap and just use a stand alone distributor like an hei.

[grunt67]

That was one of my thoughts also, why did some one put MSD on a stock 402 to start with. A HEI Dist wont fit will have to use a good Dist & Coil and ditch the MSD stuff, makes no since to have it.
Thank You

[geezer#99]

They used msd because it used to be a quality upgrade. Not so much now.

Why won't an hei fit?
Might be a little tight but should be room.
Or get a small cap hei like this.
http://performancedistributors.com/p...nition-system/

Or a pertronix.
http://www.pertronix.com/prod/ig/fla...t/default.aspx

[grunt67]

No room against fire wall for HEI, I do not think a stock 402 should need an MSD, so I think I will trash it and just go with a good dist. and coil.
Thanks

[Ol Blue K20]

My K20 has a big block wedged in it. It has a HEI, it's tight but fits.

[jocko]

Yes, I'd throw in a bone stock distributor and coil also, eliminate the MSD, and try things out. If all good, then convert the stock distrib to electronic somewhere down the road with Pertronix or an equivalent kit. HEI is definitely a reliable and proven system, but in cramped quarters, it's easy to convert a stock points distributor to electronic.

[57taskforce]

How are you identifying it as a tall deck? I'm not sure they ever made a tall deck 402?? A light duty c 10-30 would have come with a low deck big block and certainly a Monte Carlo would have too.

[grunt67]

I assumed all truck motors were a tall deck is what some one told me. I guess i will have to try and read the casting numbers on the rear of the motor, i can not find the suffix to402tbj , so thats out.
I dont know if its a truck or a car 402, it does have a 400 hydromatic tranny. ?????????????
Its all frustrating , thank you
grunt

I DID FIND TBJ SUFFIX CODE AND IT STATED IT WAS A SBC/ IT IS A BIG BLOCK TRUST ME ON THAT ONE, I'LL JUST ORDER UP A 402 INTAKE ,AND A READY TO RUN DIST, AND COIL, PULL THE MSD, AS IT DOES NOT NEED IT ON A STOCK 402 MOTOR. I'M GOING TO GET RID OF THE DAM PINGING AND KNOCKING ONE WAY OR THE OTHER.
GRUNT

[geezer#99]

Here's the easy way to tell what block you have. Just look at the water pump bolts.
http://www.crankshaftcoalition.com/w...#Tall_deck_BBC

If it were me, I'd do one thing at a time. Change out the distributor first. Then look at the intake. Keep it simple.
You do know about the different intakes, don't you.
THere's oval port and square port ones. You likely have an oval port one.
What intake and carb do you have?