Getting rotors turned.

[In The Ten Ring]

My front rotors have a lot of rust on them, from sitting 12 years in a garage with some humidity problems. I am thinking about having those turned to get rid of that rust (most humidity problems have now been solved).

What do you think, is that a good idea? They are 1972 OEM and have never been turned.

[Stocker]

I would only consider having them turned if the rust was severe. For more normal surface rust I would rather sand them.

[B. W.]

I'm with Stocker, I'd only machine them if the rust is so bad that it has pitted the rotor. You can take a DA with 36 or 80 grit & it the surface, should clean right up. You may need to pull the caliper to hit the inboard surface.

[bandit0067]

I m with these guys, unless they are severely pitted, that surface rust will be scrubbed off after a very few brake stops. But, it s what makes you feel good about it..

[AussieinNC]

The previous responses are good...

but, to me, brakes are an item we should never shortcut...12 years in a humid garage...can yield dried out rubber brake lines, caliper pistons rusted solid, caliper slides rusted, brake pipes rusted and worst of all, master cylinder rubbers deteriorated just waiting to fail. Brake bleeder nipples corroded away...

Brake fluid is hydroscopic meaning it absorbs water...after 12 years sitting in a humid garage I would be pulling all the brake hydraulic components off for rebuilding...

Just my 2 cents worth...

[In The Ten Ring]

Originally Posted by AussieinNC

The previous responses are good...

but, to me, brakes are an item we should never shortcut...12 years in a humid garage...can yield dried out rubber brake lines, caliper pistons rusted solid, caliper slides rusted, brake pipes rusted and worst of all, master cylinder rubbers deteriorated just waiting to fail. Brake bleeder nipples corroded away...

Brake fluid is hydroscopic meaning it absorbs water...after 12 years sitting in a humid garage I would be pulling all the brake hydraulic components off for rebuilding...

Just my 2 cents worth...

Ugh! You are just full of good news.

My plan is to get it running and then drain the brake system, refill with new fluid, and bleed the brakes. I can visually check some of these things and inspect the calipers for sure. With the rear end up on jack stands, I want to put it into gear and get the wheels up to speed and then test the brakes.

My driveway is rather steep....losing brakes backing out would be a disaster. I could be pushed out in first gear holding the clutch in, letting it drift backwards and then using the clutch to catch it up. My driveway out the garage is short, about a truck length. All I want out of the truck before winter is to get it into the side driveway (mine also) so I can clean out the garage a bit and organize things.

I can check into getting the truck hauled or towed over to a garage for a proper brake system rebuild. I could tow it myself using my dad's truck and a dolly.

Thanks for the warning!

[volksworld]

12 years without moving and old brake fluid? usually forms a rust ring right at the seal itself...if its not leaking now it will be soon....rock auto has name brand reman calipers for like 20 bucks....so please go through the hydraulics...as far as the rotors, if you're going to cut them you have to pull the wheel bearings,wash and repack them(provided they're still ok) ,clean the old grease out of the hub cause the lathe gets chips in there, and replace the grease seals....(which you should anyway)...i'm not standing there to look at the rust so i cant make a judgement call for you on wether or not they need to be cut or if sanding them would be sufficient...also depends on their condition previous to the rust...grooves, etc....if all you're trying to do is move it out of the garage to leave it outside till you get to it later , as long as it has a hard pedal leave it alone....bleeding it may give you a better pedal but whatever internal rust damage there is has already been done so changing the fluid now isnt gonna accomplish much...and if you're leaving it outside for the winter the rotors will be rusty again in the spring

[Stocker]

^^ Can't argue with any of that, all good points. I only responded to rotors & rust because that's all he asked about.

[AussieinNC]

Yep...all good...was just giving my 2 cents worth...

Always willing to help out where I can...

[Tiger Joe]

theres nothing wrong with getting the rotors cut. I have my own brake lathe so I can cut whatever I want off, but if you had a decent shop you could ask them to just take a few thousandths off to clean them up.

This would also let you check they are still true. I redid a 68 vette, it had been sitting since the 80s with the rotors having been cut back then ready to be put back together. One of the rotors was warped so bad it was almost not usable, guessing it had to do with how they are stored.

as far as the rest of the system components sitting 12 years. I'd bet there are a bunch of cars 2005 and order that still have the majority of their brake system original, only replacing what broke, and they are doing just fine.

[In The Ten Ring]

Oh no, the truck won't be left outside! It will have to move out of the garage and back in. I just want to clean out the garage a little bit, free up enough room for another fender and my riding mower, get organized a bit, then back in she goes.

She'd have to go back in each night, unless I was willing to stay outside as sniper overwatch in case of a theft attempt.

[AussieinNC]

Had another thought about your truck...

Have you had it parked with the parking brake engaged?

If you have, I can almost guarantee you will have the rear brake shoes stuck to the drums...

Sorry I am full of really good news...but I have a reputation for telling it like it is...

If they are stuck...jack the truck up in the rear, remove the rear wheels and rap on the face of the brake drum...it will take a while...make sure the cables are released fully...

Sorry mate...