56 chevy pickup steering

[jeffs56]

Hey guys, I have a Camaro clip frame that needs some parts and I also have a stock frame with dropped axle and springs. I also have the correct steering parts from side dropped axle. I'm still up in the air on which to use. That decision is going on for a few years now unfortunately. My question is I had the original column in it, but it has been cut off right at the box. So what would I need to fix that to either use the stock box with a aftermarket tilt column, or what box is best to use to replace the stock box that has been cut. Thanks again guys

[dsraven]

if the box is cut off with a stub hanging out you may be able to use it still. you need enough room to get a flat spot ground in to the input shaft to hold the universal joint. before you do that though, make sure to check the box, it could be worn out. not much to them if you wanna pull it apart for a look see. check here for more info


http://chevy.oldcarmanualproject.com...esto/56134.htm

[jeffs56]

Here's a pic, if it will load

[dsraven]

yup, thats pretty short.
best look around for another box. now would be a great time to upgrade to power steering.the link is an article on the subject

http://www.hotrod.com/articles/power...traight-axles/

parts kit from google search

http://www.cmwtrucks.com/index.php/5...ng-column.html

or thereis this method with the box out front. some guys say the tires rub at hard right turns.

http://www.classicperform.com/power2.htm


anyway, you get the idea.
buying a used box may be cheaper but make sure you either get it cheap or check it our well to be sure it isn't worn out inside.

[jeffs56]

If i go the used box route, it would have to be a Toyota box right? Or take the chance on seeing if certain wheels will work. This is why I keep going back and forth with just using the camaro clip frame or mustang 2

[jeffs56]

Here's my camaro frame. Needs new brakes all 4 corners, rear is a disc brake rearend not sure what it's out of. And the alignment is way off, so of course that worries me. Not sure if it's welded in straight or if it's just the tow in and out adjustment

[tmoble]

What they said. Looks like a Camaro disc brake rear. easy to work with, cheap parts like calipers, rotors, pads, etc. Look carefully at the rear where the axles come out of the housing. See if there's old grease and dirt built up. if none, likely the bearing and seals are OK. You will need to have at least 3" between the top of the axle tube and the bottom of the frame. I had to C-notch my frame there when I had that setup.

That Camaro front end is about the best front suspension installed in an American car without getting into Vettes. Use it if you can. Bushing, ball joints and tie rods are cheap. The rotors and calipers are cheap too. You can use a master cylinder for a mid 80's Camaro with rear disc. It'll have a fast steering gear box and you'll be able to run a stock 1-1/8" stabilizer bar. You're truck will steer and handle like a Camaro.

Can you post up a side shot of where the frame meets the front clip?

[jeffs56]

I will get more pics tomorrow. I want torun the master cylinder and pedal that mounts on the frame I think it will look nicer. The 80 camaro master cylinder will only run on the firewall correct? I think all my bushings are newer on the front suspension. I'm just thinking since it's been sitting I'll probably need new rotors and calipers, but not sure if I'm right on that

[dsraven]

-you can run the correct master for your 80 camaro front clip as long as you get the one for disc/disc application and it will bolt up to your booster. you would mount it on the frame mounted booster like usual and probably run some valves inline, called residual valves, to hold a 2 lb pressure in the system. some master cylinders have them built in but more or less just the ones built for drum brake applications. this is to keep the fluid from running all back into the master cyl when the brakes are released because the master cylinder is quite a bit lower than when firewall mounted. when that happens it takes a bunch of pedal movement on the next brake application in order to fill the system back up again and usually results in a spongy pedal.

here is a quick explanation.

https://www.freeasestudyguides.com/r...eck-valve.html

and an idea for pricing

http://www.jegs.com/p/JEGS-Performan...48183/10002/-1

you may also require an adjustable proportioning valve to regulate how much brake bias you have. brake bias is how muich front brake you get compared to rear brake. this is so you don't skid the rear wheels every time you hit the brakes.

here is an explanation from a super chevy article

http://www.superchevy.com/how-to/713...tioning-valve/

-you will probably want a dual diaphragm brake booster in order to have decent power assist and still be able to have room for other stuff, like exhaust pipes etc, under the floor area. another thought would be to install a hydroboost system from an astro van or 1/2 ton that would give you awesome power assist and take up waaay less space. you would need a power steering pump that has 2 return ports or else do some creative plumbing. check ogre's build to see what he has done, or send him a pm and maybe he can send you a couple of pics. if you google hydroboost you will see it is not that complicated to figure out.

below is a link with some pics of the vac booster so you can see how much room it takes and how it looks generally.

http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=523434

below is a link to this site where guys have built their own version of hydroboost for the 55-59 trucks. you could pm then individually for more info and pics. read the whole thing for talk about master cyl choices, pedal ratios etc

http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=498494

below is a link to POL's version with pricing for a kit but it also has a pic so you can see what it would look like. there are guys on this site who have done their own and it was likely cheaper. not sure on what you have for fabrication skills and tools.

https://www.performanceonline.com/19...e-Booster-Kit/

-you will probably be needing to replace the old rotors and pads and possibly the calipers due to age and possibly sticky or seized caliper pistons. you may also want to bend you brake hoses sharply and check for any cracking of the rubber hose and also give them a little tug to check for stretch. you don't wanna do all that work and then blow a brake hose and crash. hoses are pretty cheap really and easy to do when your system is apart anyway. when purchasing the rotors look for the ones that are coated or painted on the non brake surfaces. the other raw steel ones will rust and make a mess on your wheels all the time. unless you paint them first.

-you may want to at least check the front end suspension parts for wear before you get anything else assembled. it is easier to do that work without a truck body sitting on top of the frame. parts for that front end will be fairly cheap as well but price it all out and go from there. it is better to start with a good base under your truck than to get a bunch of other work done and then have to go back and take it apart to fix some loose steering items. if you do it all properly the first time it is less expensive overall and you have peace of mind as well with no hidden last minute expenses like when you take it for alignment and the guy calls and says he can't do it without new ball joints or whatever.

-

[dsraven]

heres a current post for some input on the vac booster on the framer scenario

http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...68#post8049168

[bowt1ed]

Use the 2nd Gen sub, replace all ball joints, bushings, steering linkage with Moog, replace steering box with 3rd Gen 2.5 turn (@$150 NAPA). Will drive like a dream.

Cheers, Jim

[59chev]

Clip looks like a 2nd gen. Looks just like mine. I can't confirm but I understand that the braces from the front cross member to the sides make it a z28 clip

[59chev]

Here is mine. 81 Camaro clip

[jeffs56]

A couple more

[jeffs56]

Another

[jeffs56]

Another front shot

[dsraven]

it looks like whoever did the clip spent time to get it to fit well. dunno about the ride height etc but it looks like it is done right from what I can see on the pics.
before you spend money on it you may wanna check the frame for straight to ensure the clip was welded in parallel to the chassis.

-start by doing a corner to corner measurement using a steel measure and ensuring your helper holds his end the same on both sides, or use a small clamp to hold the measure if doing it alone but ensure it is the same on both sides. the dimensions can be out about 1/8" according to the gm assembly manual. you can also cross check in an X pattern from front cab mounts to rear cab mounts etc. just make sure you have a good frame before going too deep. judging by the look of what you have I would hope the guy who did the work also did this step first.

-mark each cross member at it's midpoint from side to side, including the clip
-using a string line or a laser run a line down the middle, fore to aft, along those marks, starting at the rearmost and ending at the frontmost mark.
check to see if the string or laser hits the mark on each of those center spots you previously made on the cross members

-if they don't all line up then there is an issue. if they would all line up if you were to move the clip mark over a bit then your clip may be in out of alignment with the rest of the frame. you'll figure it out.

-also check for frame sag. these frames are dead straight except for the kick up over the rear axle and the drop at the front for the bumper (cut off on your frame obviously)

-if it is all good then knock yourself out going forward.
up front:
check the ball joints (gotta unload the spring pressure from them so they can be checked properly).
check the tie rods.
check the idler and pitman arms.
check the center link
check the steering box pitman shaft bearing and gear adjustment
check the control arm bushings
check the suspension snubbers
check the brake hoses and steel lines
check the wheel bearings and seals
check the brake parts, pads calipers etc (I know partially missing)
check the stabilizer bar bushings and links
out back:
check the spring bushings and hangers
check the axle housing mounts on the springs and U bolts
check the wheel bearings and seals
check the diff vent and hose
check the diff fluid level and for any leaks at cover gasket or pinion seal
check the pinion bearing and yoke for wear
check the brake parts (I know, missing)
judging by the pic you may want to eventually partially dissassemble the diff, flush it all out with solvent and a garden sprayer, check all the bearings and seals (replace the axle seals and bearings and check the axles where the bearings seat) and then reassemble just for peace of mind. the diff vent was missing so you have no idea how much crud went down the hole. worst case scenario the bearing kits for a rebuild are actually quite affordable. you could leave the pinion shaft in place for a partial dissassembly. mark the bearing caps so they go back in the same side and the same way up. same for the carrier bearings and any shims for side to side match.

-if you remove the front springs and shocks and reassemble you can install threaded rod in the shock holes and screw it down to adjust the ride height so your lower control arms are parallel to the ground, side to side. that should be your ride height of the frame with the weight of everything on it when completely finished. then your front clip will have the proper geometry to work as it was made. you can then adjust the rear suspension using a home made adjustable link, where the shocks would go, so you get the control arms of the front clip sitting at the correct angle. then that will be your rake angle for the frame going forward. then check above your diff axle tubes to ensure you have at least 3" to work with. then you will know if you need a C notch or not. you can assemble everything with those rods in place and then when the mock up is done and you want to put springs back in up front you can get the proper spring to achieve that same ride height. out back you can adjust the axle housing on the springs with the correct block or hanger length as required. if the truck weighs less than the car did and it ends up sitting too high then you could look for a set of front springs from, say, a 6 cyl car. if it weighs more and sits too low then look for a set of springs from a big block car. or check a spring shop cross reference to find a set of springs that will be correct for your weight. you could also just ask the guys on this forum who have done the same thing. a real wealth of knowledge exists right here.

[cameo]

could you measure from the floor to the bottom of the subframe were its flat and welds to the truck frame? I am mocking mine up and I am looking for some reference points.
Thanks

[jeffs56]

I'm not sure if I understand what measurements your needing. My body and stuff aren't on the frame right now. So if you need pics of just frame I can get them pretty easily

[jeffs56]

Do you guys have any recommendations for tubular A Arms and coilovers for the Camaro clip. I want something that will do really good for auto cross or pro touring. Thanks for all the help