What do ya'll think about these battery clamps?

[In The Ten Ring]

I have those secondary wires on both my positive and negative cables (one goes to the fuse block and the other to a fender). I'm thinking about making new battery cables and using these clamps. Opinions?

https://www.oreillyauto.com/detail/s.../08805/4742296

[FirstOwner69]

NO! Those are generally used to adapt a car battery for in a marine or RV application. I think you should get the correct side terminal battery and cables for your truck. Both are readily available. Might cost about $100 t0 $150 total.

Sorry to be so blunt. You have a great opportunity with a truck with family history. Please do it right.

[In The Ten Ring]

My truck has not had side-mounted terminals since the mid 1970's. Further, I don't want those, I want top-mounted terminals.

Anyone else?

[Killer Bee]

funny, just reading your query without even looking at your link, I was thinking marine style stud, post clamps..

great for tight connections and versatility to add/remove auxiliary cables without overworking the lead posts/post clamps..

what I like most about them is the ability to readily disconnect batterys in vehicles I don't drive often..

and short of pre-molded battery cable ends, properly crimped/soldered lugs on threaded posts are of the best connections you can make..

side terminal connections are more prone to hidden corrosion, more vulnerable to over torquing, and don't tolerate frequent connections as well..

commercial trucks frequently use gp31s [stud] batterys however automotive group sizes are less common due to various oe cable ends..

following the commercial truck standard by adapting your automotive battery posts to studs seems functional to me..

however I do concede that this may not be the finishing touch to a proper restoration, but that's owner's choice..

[RodnRudy]

I'm running the terminals of which you speak. I like the ability to make your own connections rather than having to splice in the pre formed pos and neg cables. Here's a pic of mine.

[dirish]

Ebay, American made. Any gauge. Any connection.
Jegs, summit........

[CCCC]

If your focus with our classics is putting them into original condition and keeping them that way, those won't work.

But, if you are like me and have a bunch of these classics and try to keep them in top condition - even though they serve a variety of purposes as working trucks - those terminal fittings will work very nicely for certain purposes. I also use "easy disconnect" terminals for some security and battery protection purposes.

I still have three trucks using side terminals on batts. I like them just fine, but they can be more prone to hidden corrosion - and i sometimes wonder if those side terminal batts may be phased out before I leave.

[B. W.]

I'm with both sides - not correct but makes maintenance easier. I think I'm going to use military top post clamps to make it easier to run winch cables.

[71meangreenc10]

Originally Posted by B. W.

I'm with both sides - not correct but makes maintenance easier. I think I'm going to use military top post clamps to make it easier to run winch cables.

I used to hate it when I only needed one of those for a vehicle and had to order a box (25ea). Probably got lead poisoning handling those things over the years....They do work well and give you a lot of options for cables.

Smitty

[RustyBucket]

I guess G.M. changed from top post to side post between '71 & '72. My '71 GMC has top posts & The '72 Blazer has side posts. I hate the little 5/16" heads on the side posts. I've rounded them off trying to loosen them and over tightened one and wrung the contact off inside a battery. The side post batteries are threaded 3/8"x16 so I use a short regular 3/8" bolt with a nut run down on it. Screw the bolt in finger tight and run the nut down to tighten the connection. Makes a nice stud for jumper cables or to connect a timing light.

My B&S Vanguard converted golf cart has cable ends for a lawn mower battery and I use a car battery with the top post/stud terminals like you have.

[demian5]

Originally Posted by RustyBucket

The side post batteries are threaded 3/8"x16 so I use a short regular 3/8" bolt with a nut run down on it. Screw the bolt in finger tight and run the nut down to tighten the connection. Makes a nice stud for jumper cables or to connect a timing light.

That is the best idea (i have done that to most of my side post trucks) as you can actually do a jump start...

[100%Chevy]

Originally Posted by RustyBucket

I guess G.M. changed from top post to side post between '71 & '72. My '71 GMC has top posts & The '72 Blazer has side posts. I hate the little 5/16" heads on the side posts. I've rounded them off trying to loosen them and over tightened one and wrung the contact off inside a battery. The side post batteries are threaded 3/8"x16 so I use a short regular 3/8" bolt with a nut run down on it. Screw the bolt in finger tight and run the nut down to tighten the connection. Makes a nice stud for jumper cables or to connect a timing light.

My B&S Vanguard converted golf cart has cable ends for a lawn mower battery and I use a car battery with the top post/stud terminals like you have.

Same way I've connected a car battery in my B&S converted golf cart!
I'd like to see your conversion if possible.My old 16 h.p.B&S flat twin is about used up and I'm planning a new engine.The Vanguard sounds good,or an 18 h.p. Kohler in the same configuration.



It's a GMC,so I guess it's relevant!



I have 13 vehicles in my shop/storage.All have battery disconnects for fire safety.O'Reilley's sell them for pos and neg battery terminals.

Mike.

[In The Ten Ring]

Originally Posted by B. W.

I'm with both sides - not correct but makes maintenance easier. I think I'm going to use military top post clamps to make it easier to run winch cables.

Thanks to everyone. I can't see any advantage to side-mounted posts. This is the only truck I own, no room or money for another one, and dad converted it to top post decades ago. Top mounts have to be easier to inspect, clean, jump start, and just replace the battery itself. I also looked at this type of clamp and may go that route.

https://www.oreillyauto.com/detail/s.../08808/4742299

Since I may replace my cables completely I'd like to go with crimped on ends (circular ends) for easy connections and cleaning.

[Killer Bee]

the ms [military style] are great for low profile applications and for landing two larger load cables directly to the lead clamp..

designed for multiple battery applications where jumpers are required to connect them all together..

unfortunately, not sailor proof though, the 900 series on the end had a battery fire right after one of our guys dismounted the right side..

seconds later smoke was rolling from the battery box and batterys were on fire by the time we got it open..

found one of the cables mis-routed over one of the tray dividers

if we weren't in yeosu 200km from nearest US post, might have not risked it..

but we had enough stuff in the lme to make repairs and drive it back to busan

[kwmech]

Thought these were pretty cool for accessories

https://www.amazon.com/Foothill-Offr...+battery+bolts

[68Gold/white]

Originally Posted by B. W.

I'm with both sides - not correct but makes maintenance easier. I think I'm going to use military top post clamps to make it easier to run winch cables.

I like those, if you have to use top posts.

I tighten the nut and bolt, then add the cable end and add another nut.

This allows the bolt to stay tight, and you can tighten the cable tighter against the inner nut.

If you just use the one nut, you have to tighten the nut against the lead cable end. This will loosen over time, something that's not needed...

[BugzC10]

Originally Posted by In The Ten Ring

I have those secondary wires on both my positive and negative cables (one goes to the fuse block and the other to a fender). I'm thinking about making new battery cables and using these clamps. Opinions?

https://www.oreillyauto.com/detail/s.../08805/4742296

Those are exactly what I used. Can't see them with the covers on. I like them.

[mike16]

My 72 still has its origonal side terminal cables. Rather than deal with silly little bolts and the difficulty jump starting it. I installed studs in the battery and a stack of washers about inch thick, then a nut.

everything works great and I have the ability to use jumper cables on the washer stack

[In The Ten Ring]

Good news!

1). Picked up the marine-style battery clamps today. They are lead-free, which was kinda interesting.

2). At NAPA I discovered my original battery cables are 2 gauge, not 6.

3). NAPA supplied black for ground, red for positive, black 6 gauge for that extra ground I have, plus all the copper eyelets I need. I also bought some solder and heat shrink wrap, all for $53.00. They took off 20% since I spent 1 dollar on a NAPA tote bag.

Dad says he has a crimper that will handle 2 gauge and I can borrow a propane torch from him also. By the weekend I should have all new battery cables.

*I have to credit Special K here, his comment on the subject pushed me over the edge on making new cables.

[In The Ten Ring]

Just got in from making the cables! My dad gave me a bit of help when it came to operating the big crimper: it's a bit awkward to use so an extra pair of hands comes in handy. I used glue-lined heat shrink and a heat gun. I'll get pics up tomorrow night.

Thanks for all the encouragement and advice, very easy to do and a lot of fun.

[gearheadperkins]

I also use those without any issues.. As long as you are not going for a full classic factory style resto.. I say use them ..

[In The Ten Ring]

Thanks man. Well the new battery cables are made and I hope to get those on tomorrow and put these clamps (and my 44 year old wiring) to the test.

[Orange67]

Hey! I'm 44.... Wait. Maybe my wiring is what's wrong!

Good to hear you got them built, thinking of a similar set up on my 67.

[franken]

Maybe already covered, but the big cables are for the starter. We can and should use the small leads to go to a junction block in one way or another. Hanging a lot of stuff off a battery terminal isn't pretty.
Have a look at >72 solutions to some other issues as well, that move the low current junction block closer to the driver.

[In The Ten Ring]

Did not use solder...figured that was "too much."

I'll try and get pics up tomorrow.