Pinion marks disappeared

[abohler1]

So I made all of the proper pinion marks for a seal replacement with a paint pen. Now that I'm putting it back together I'm not confident the marks held up. Many threads appear not to have marks any longer. Am I screwed? If I'm close should I be good? The nut still has the marks and so does the top of the shaft, but just not sure how many threads to take the nut. Can I line up the lines and torque it to factory spec? Thanks for the help.

[Captainfab]

I do not understand what lines or marks you are talking about?

[abohler1]

Originally Posted by Captainfab

I do not understand what lines or marks you are talking about?

I marked the pinion nut, in relation to the yoke. And marked the nut along with the output shaft. And accounted for how many threads the nut was on the output shaft before removing to replace pinion seal. But the marks on the output shaft that showed where the nut needed to be, seem to have mostly rubbed off as the nut was removed.

[abohler1]

So, I have a GM handbook, and it shows the steps without mentioning preload, or removing axels to take the pinion nut and torque to 270 lb ft. I am wondering if this is my best bet as now I cannot confirm the proper placement of the nut from original markings. Thoughts?

Additional Note: If the crush sleeve was originally set to the proper spec, I would assume torquing to the original spec would work.

[sprint_9]

Are you trying to reuse the old crush sleeve? Thats kind of the way this reads. If that is the case then dont do that, they are a one time use.

[kwmech]

Stop making all the cross posting. What diff is this

[Ironangel]

KW's right, kinda need to know which rear end we're talkin about?

[abohler1]

Originally Posted by Ironangel

KW's right, kinda need to know which rear end we're talkin about?

12 bolt
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[Ironangel]

Did you get a new crush sleeve? The crush sleeve holds a preload on the bearings by collapsing a pre-bent shoulder on the sleeve. So anytime you relieve that preload your supposed to replace that sleeve, that's why you have to re-torque the pinion nut to such a high value. Now with that said, if you re-install the old sleeve like many guys do, you'll tighten that nut until there is no end play in the pinion shaft and give it another half of a hex or 1/12th of a turn. Make sure you use red Loctite on the nut. (I suggest making a holding plate for the yoke and use a cheater pipe to hold it. Use a cheater pipe on a good 1/2" or better yet 3/4" break-over bar to crush the new sleeve to zero endplay and your good.)

[Bigdav160]

Originally Posted by kwmech

Stop making all the cross posting. What diff is this

QFT.

This has been answered by experts in another thread. No, just removing the yoke does not require a new crush sleeve.

[Bigdav160]

No. Under-torquing could lead to ring and pinion damage.

Over-torquing leads to early bearing wear/failure.

[YoungPup1977]

I take it you have driven the vehicle already.....any leaks ? any noises ?

How was the seal surface of the pinion yoke where the seal rides ?

[abohler1]

Originally Posted by YoungPup1977

I take it you have driven the vehicle already.....any leaks ? any noises ?

How was the seal surface of the pinion yoke where the seal rides ?

I took it out today. Everything ran great. No more seal leaks. I think since the nut and pinion still had paint on them, that may have been my saving Grace. I tightened the nut down until no play, then lined up all the paint marks with another few small turns. Seems to be all good. Thanks for everyone's help on this thread.