Suspension woes

[Oldrust]

Hey guys,

I’m wondering what I need to do to make my 65’ more drivable. Unfortunately, I just took delivery and I don’t have access to the truck for a few weeks so I’m not 100% certain of its current set up. What I do know is it has 3” drop spindles from CPP, drop springs of unknown specs and its scraping very often to the point where its collected a pretty good pile of asphalt inside the springs. Ride is a bit harsh as well. Will changing to springs with less of a drop lift the suspension and improve clearance? Photo showing the less than 2” of clearance I currently have.

Thanks!

[lolife99]

That
Picture is the perfect example of what not to do on these old trucks.
Combining a drop spindle with a DJM drop pocket a-arm is wrong.
If you would have a flat tire, you'd be sliding on that lower a-arm instead of braking to a safe stop.
Google scrub line.
You need to install a drop spring and use a stock lower a-arm at a minimum.

[Oldrust]

Thanks, Keith. PO did all the work, My plan is to make it all correct. You make an excellent point about how unsafe this set up is in regards to a flat. Any particular drop spring you would recommend for a low stance that is safe and rides/handles well?

[lolife99]

I use www.earlyclassic.com for my 67-72 drop parts.
They sell 63-66 parts too.
Give them a call.

If you look at your side view picture, you'll also notice how far back the wheels set in the front fender opening. This is another problem with extremely low 60-66 trucks.
www.pbfab.com sells a-arms that move the wheels forward to correct this look.

Whatever you do get rid of those lower a-arms.
They are old technology, that is no longer needed since they make drop spindles for these trucks.

[Oldrust]

Will do, thanks for the information. And yes, the wheels do seem really far back in the wheel well.

Lower a arms will be history. My plan is to redo/correct and improve the whole truck. I’m also going to be changing the wheels along with the suspension and need to figure out the correct size, offset etc so it all works well together.

[Oldrust]

Here are some pics of the rear suspension and more underside shots of whats currently installed.

The Porterbuilt suspension systems look amazing. Something I will consider. Where this truck will be driven has lots of serious mountain roads to deal with. A good suspension is necessary.

[PGSigns]

What I would do in the front would be put a set of standard lower control arms in the front and do the caster mod at a 1/2" Allows for good alignment specs. Then take a look at the ride height with the springs you have. I think you will need 2" front springs to get back to where you are. The back looks pretty good from the pictures. I would also look at putting a lower profile oil pan on it.
Jimmy

[Oldrust]

Thanks, Jimmy. I just read a bit about the caster mod, seems fairly simple. Oil pan is on my list. Sounds pretty straightforward to get back to safe and normal. I appreciate the comments!

[rvrfoot]

Here is mine a arms.

[Oldrust]

Looks great!

[rvrfoot]

I have more pictures if you have anymore questions.

[Bentbolt]

Originally Posted by Oldrust

Thanks, Jimmy. I just read a bit about the caster mod, seems fairly simple. Oil pan is on my list. Sounds pretty straightforward to get back to safe and normal. I appreciate the comments!

where is more info on the caster mod? the google brought up every modded c10

[The Rocknrod]

Originally Posted by Bentbolt

where is more info on the caster mod? the google brought up every modded c10

Her you go - http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=501241

[rvrfoot]

I will need to check on mine. I think the arms on mine gives it 2% more caster.

[Oldrust]

Thanks! I’m exchanging some emails with Porterbuilt about potentially doing the whole suspension system. I’m after the best handling possible for a 65’ C10 due to the roads I drive on daily i.e. twisty, curvy, steep mountain roads.
How woukd you say your C10 handles/rides with your set up?

[rvrfoot]

Mine is awesome, I was happy with mine it sticks to the road. Compared to the stock 66 c10.

[Oldrust]

Thanks. What are the details of what you have done? Researching all my options.

[rvrfoot]

C notch the rear. Drop 5 in springs 2 inch lower blocks. Front 2 1/2 drop spindles from cpp. Upper and lower arms 2 inch lower coils. Front and rear sway bar.

[rvrfoot]

[rvrfoot]

[Mack B]

Originally Posted by rvrfoot

Attachment 1711775

Where did this sway bar come from? Looks like it may be what I need.

[rvrfoot]

cpp in cali works great.

[Oldrust]

Looks great! Nice stance! Thanks for sharing the deets and photo, very nice C10!

Bentbolt- I googled and found multiple threads right here on this forum. It involves drilling the lower control arm to allow more caster than the factory spec which many say is much better in terms of steering feel.

[theastronaut]

Are you keeping the 15" wheels? If so there's no need to go all out on the suspension, you'll run out of tire before you need any kind of serious suspension tricks.

On my '66, I did 2.5" spindles, cut 1.5 coils off the stock springs, used stock control arms with the bump stop brackets cut off completely, and relocated the upper shock mount farther up the frame to get full shock travel. Also added a CPP 1.25" sway bar and KYB Gas-Adjust shocks.

On the rear I did a small pipe notch, 5" springs and 1.5" drop blocks, did FrizzleFry's easy/free shock relocation with gas shocks (front fitment) from the parts store, and a mid 80's F150 rear sway bar. Getting the shocks outboard of the frame and standing them straight up instead of laid over at an angle helps them work much more effectively.


Your rear suspension looks pretty good already, but I think you'd benefit from relocating the shocks outward. Link to the shock relocation how to-

http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...postid=4730005


My truck rode as good as dad's all-stock '66 without the truck pitching excessively over larger bumps due to the lower center of gravity and the shocks and sway bars controling the body movement better. It cruised dead steady on the interstate even over 90 mph and had less body roll than my autocross car. The tires were the limiting factor of how hard I could push the truck around corners, it would have done much better on 18's with shorter sidewalls.

[Oldrust]

"Are you keeping the 15" wheels? If so there's no need to go all out on the suspension, you'll run out of tire before you need any kind of serious suspension tricks."

I'm definitely changing the wheels out, 18" or possibly 20", undecided on that. Looking at maybe some Detroit Smoothies.


"Your rear suspension looks pretty good already, but I think you'd benefit from relocating the shocks outward. Link to the shock relocation how to-

http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...postid=4730005"

Awesome, thanks for the link. Yes, the rear looks pretty good. Someone got overzealous up front trying to drop it as much as possible without really knowing how... It needs to be corrected.


"My truck rode as good as dad's all-stock '66 without the truck pitching excessively over larger bumps due to the lower center of gravity and the shocks and sway bars controling the body movement better. It cruised dead steady on the interstate even over 90 mph and had less body roll than my autocross car. The tires were the limiting factor of how hard I could push the truck around corners, it would have done much better on 18's with shorter sidewalls."

Thanks for the info and pics. I'm on the fence now with the idea of fixing whats there or going whole hog and doing either Porterbuilt front and rear with airbags or coils or doing a Roadster Shop Spec chassis. Roadster Shop claims it will drive like a modern car with a new chassis. Its a slippery slope... Its also hard to get info and one can't test drive the new chassis...