Crossmember rivet removal help

[Smokeem]

I’ve been trying to remove my trailing arm Crossmember to flip the mounts and weld pipe for exhaust to pass through. I’ve got all the bottom rivets removed and the front of the top 2 removed and the heads knocked off the back 2. I’ve been tried to drill the back 2 rivets butvthe bit keeps wanting to walk. I can’t get my grinder in to flatten the knocked rivet down. Anybody have any suggestions that might help me get these back 2 out?
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[71cheyennesuperlongb]

Try putting your flapper wheel or grinding disc on upside down. Sometimes that will help you get in to a tite spot. If not break out the air chisel to cut the head of the rivet off.Last resort CUTTING TORCH!

[Smokeem]

Originally Posted by 71cheyennesuperlongb

Try putting your flapper wheel or grinding disc on upside down. Sometimes that will help you get in to a tite spot. If not break out the air chisel to cut the head of the rivet off.Last resort CUTTING TORCH!

I’ve got the heads off but it’s not flat enough to get the drill bit to start. I will see if I can put the disc on upside down to see if I can get in to flatten it out
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[clay68c10]

Use a center punch to dent the center of the rivet where you want to drill. Use a small bit to start, then work your way larger till it’s drilled out.

[Spf79]

Originally Posted by clay68c10

Use a center punch to dent the center of the rivet where you want to drill. Use a small bit to start, then work your way larger till it’s drilled out.

I did the same, and had no problems.

[cornerstone]

Thought I would add another step to making crossmember removal easier for the nextt guy who searches this. I found it difficult to punch out the rivets that were in the lower portion of the inner frame rail. The upper rail was in the way to get a straight shot with the punch. It’s really simple if you cut the top part of the crossmember like so. This is assuming you will not want to save or reuse/sell the factory one, of course.

[demian5]

Originally Posted by cornerstone

Thought I would add another step to making crossmember removal easier for the nextt guy who searches this. I found it difficult to punch out the rivets that were in the lower portion of the inner frame rail. The upper rail was in the way to get a straight shot with the punch. It’s really simple if you cut the top part of the crossmember like so. This is assuming you will not want to save or reuse/sell the factory one, of course.

"I’ve been trying to remove my trailing arm Crossmember to flip the mounts and weld pipe for exhaust to pass through."

[gmills]

I have used a rosebud to heat them up and then an air hammer to knock the heads off. It was up on a lift which makes it much a
easier than on the ground.

[Jason Banks]

Make sure your air chisel is sharp! Grind it or sand it if needed. It makes a huge difference