6"/8" drop with mostly stock suspension...too low???

[mfm3]

Just changed from a "5/7" drop to 1" lower all around. Thought I would share what I am learning with my fellow static droppers.

Tires: 235/60-15 and 255/70-15
Before: 3" springs/2" spindles and C-notch/5" springs/2" blocks
After: now 1" lower with 4" springs and 3" blocks
Issues with the front:
- down to 1" of ground clearance with stock lower control arms; crossmember has about 1-1/2" of ground clearance
- riding on the snubbers/ride is a little bumpity
- steering arm rubbing on top side of sway bar and starting to leave a slight gouge
- inside edge of rims scrapping on stamped control arms when turning to full lock...annoying!
Issues with the rear:
- 1-1/4" of clearance between top of axle housing and c-notch snubber/not an issue so far; I guess 1" of suspension travel is enough when you don't have any weight in the bed and drive on mostly smooth roads
- 1-1/4" of clearance between top of the center section and bottom side of the bed wood; the axle housing bottoms out on the c-notch snubbers, so the rear end's center section can't damage the wood bed floor, but has left a small mark on the underside of the bed wood
- approx 3" of clearance between bottom of sway bar and the ground, which is a little scary

I'm committed to making the 6"/8" drop work, so I bit the bullet and ordered CPP's tubular control arms for the front. Should add at least 1/2" of ground clearance at the control arms and eliminate the wheel scrapping issue at full lock. I can always increase the height of the front tires from 60 series to 65 and get another 1/2" of clearance. I'll likely add air shocks in the back for times when I need to haul a load. Looking for anyone with experience using CPP's control arms or air shocks in back. Please share your experience and any other wisdom that will let me drive the truck hard without fear of ripping the suspension off. Not wanting to bag it...yet.

[The Rocknrod]

I would say it was too low for the configuration you have. Your not hitting the inner fender in front yet?
Time to do a fender mod, Chassis mod etc, if you wan t lower. Hitting suspension parts is dangerous.
I like the before shot anyway.
Show some more of how you ran the exhaust that looks interesting.

[mfm3]

Originally Posted by The Rocknrod

I would say it was too low for the configuration you have. Your not hitting the inner fender in front yet?
Time to do a fender mod, Chassis mod etc, if you wan t lower. Hitting suspension parts is dangerous.
I like the before shot anyway.
Show some more of how you ran the exhaust that looks interesting.

The truck has a big block with headers that dump outside the frame rails at the back of the wheel wells. The exhaust runs outside the frame rails.

[PGSigns]

Let the air out of one of the front tires to simulate a flat and see what hits. I tied to make sure when I did mine if I had a flat I could steer the truck. If it lands hard on the a-arms you may not be able to steer. In the back your a good bit past the scrub line and if you have a flat you are going to dig in. You may not have much control when that happens. I always try and think safety first, not just for me what what would happen if a flat sent me into the other lane.
Jimmy

[BR3W CITY]

I was around the same drop as your before, and with mediocre shocks and a smaller profile tire, it could scrape the lower a-arm point. I switched to QA1's and dropped ~75lbs from the truck and it hadn't been an issues since.

In the midwest you'd have some issues with the 6/8 on our garbage roads. You might be able to get away with it in Ca/Az/NM

[mfm3]

Originally Posted by BR3W CITY

I was around the same drop as your before, and with mediocre shocks and a smaller profile tire, it could scrape the lower a-arm point. I switched to QA1's and dropped ~75lbs from the truck and it hadn't been an issues since.

In the midwest you'd have some issues with the 6/8 on our garbage roads. You might be able to get away with it in Ca/Az/NM

Thanks BR3W CITY. I did some searching but did not find QA1 control arms for our trucks. According to their site, QA1 will have control arms and coil-overs for '63 and up C-10s sometime in 2018.

https://www.qa1.net/c10

[LVPhotos]

In CA the rear alone will get cops attention. Not safe at all. Any part hanging lower than rims is illegal and unsafe. Bag the rear with Schrader valves. $200 or less.
I tell everyone the clearance for notch is void if bed wood hits first. I had a truck 3" off ground made me nervous to hit any driveway. Seems to be tossing money anyway, simple bag setup rear. And fix front, hope you don't snag anything or flat. I hit a tire carcass and it made me glade it wasn't my truck.

[mfm3]

Thanks to all for the solid advice. Hate to admit that I didn't consider the flat tire scenario...stupid. For that reason and all the others noted above, going back to 3" springs in front and 2" blocks out back. In other words going back up to 5"/7"

Based on LVPhotos' advice and pics (thanks), decided to purchase a set of Ridetech bags for the rear and run Schrader valves. AccuAir has the kit for $300 but back ordered for 3 weeks. Everyone else is selling for $450. Summit would not price match AccuAir because of the b/o...paid $450...ouch!

https://accuair.com/vehiclekitproduc...rings-brackets

[lolife99]

This is a good thread to look at:
http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=575686
Just consider bagging the truck.

For your set up now,...
Cut the extra threads off the sway bar bolts and bolt the front mounts directly to the frame rails.
Rear u-bolts are scarey Long. Trim them.
CPP a-arms won’t help. The pivot point of the arm is still too low.
Read the air bag thread.
Member way2lo2 also sells the parts he uses under his business name , Street Machinery.
Check him out on eBay also,...

[mfm3]

Originally Posted by lolife99

This is a good thread to look at:
http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=575686
Just consider bagging the truck.

For your set up now,...
Cut the extra threads off the sway bar bolts and bolt the front mounts directly to the frame rails.
Rear u-bolts are scarey Long. Trim them.
CPP a-arms won’t help. The pivot point of the arm is still too low.
Read the air bag thread.
Member way2lo2 also sells the parts he uses under his business name , Street Machinery.
Check him out on eBay also,...

Thanks for the link and advice!

[hewittca]

I think the truck looks great at 6/8 but as everyone else pointed out already, there are a few things I was concerned about. On my truck, I will be running a 6.5/9.5 static drop once I get my spindles installed, but I've made sure to account for all the issues above. It can definitely be done, but it takes some work and larger diameter wheels to get there. I'm running 22s which takes care of the flat tire scenarios for me. Otherwise, with 15s there's no way possible to get there. As for the low ground clearance, I'll have about 4.5" clearance at the lower control arms. It's low but that's the point! There are plenty of modern cars with that or less and it just takes a different driving style.

[mfm3]

Originally Posted by hewittca

I think the truck looks great at 6/8 but as everyone else pointed out already, there are a few things I was concerned about. On my truck, I will be running a 6.5/9.5 static drop once I get my spindles installed, but I've made sure to account for all the issues above. It can definitely be done, but it takes some work and larger diameter wheels to get there. I'm running 22s which takes care of the flat tire scenarios for me. Otherwise, with 15s there's no way possible to get there. As for the low ground clearance, I'll have about 4.5" clearance at the lower control arms. It's low but that's the point! There are plenty of modern cars with that or less and it just takes a different driving style.

Appreciate the encouragement. Reviewed your build thread...quality work and unique too. The silver 22s and green fauxtina are a great combo.

[richards72chevy]

Nice truck is that a factory color?

[mfm3]

Originally Posted by richards72chevy

Nice truck is that a factory color?

Thanks...not a factory color. Purchased the truck six years ago from a widow who knew little about the truck, so not sure of the color. Just had it repainted the same because it's grown on me over time. The painter matched the old paint and told me it was Cool Vanilla which is a Chrysler color. After googling the Chrysler paint chip, it appears my truck has a bit more yellow.