1950 3100 rear shock mount with Explorer rear end

[Dongray]

Im interested in switching to the 8.8 rear end with a 59.5 inch width but dont see how it can work with the stock shock mounts due to already limited space between the lower mount and the tire/wheel (see pic). I would assume using the narrower axle makes the clearance worse and in order to use the 8.8 rear end I would need to move the mounts to the inside of the frame or perhaps change to something like the TCI parabolic kit but besides changing out the rear end and tranny I was trying to stay original. Any thoughts?
Thanks

[J48chevy]

Yes you will need to mount shocks inside. I have the explorer rear end and here is a pic of what I did. I did have to cut out bed sides for narrow width and putting wheel tubs in bed.

[J48chevy]

This is how close before working on bed sides.

[Dongray]

Originally Posted by J48chevy

Yes you will need to mount shocks inside. I have the explorer rear end and here is a pic of what I did. I did have to cut out bed sides for narrow width and putting wheel tubs in bed.

I assume that is the tci system you have? Do their plates and ubolts fit the 3-1/4 axle width? Most importantly do you like the ride?
Thanks
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[J48chevy]

Yes TCI shock bar kit and I am still building and have not driven it yet. I used the original plates and bought the larger ubolts for explorer rear. One of those long projects. Haha

[mr48chev]

Most of us do pretty much the same as J48Chevy did be it buy a kit or fab up the pieces ourselves.

As he showed having to rework the sides for tire clearance with the Explorer rear is part of the job unless you have some severely offset wheels. I have a mid 70's Nova rear and wheels with maybe 3-1/2 inch back spacing and just barely clear my bed sides. This time around I am going to a bit wider rear and 7 inch steel wheels with 225 tires so it isn't a worry for me.

[dsraven]

if you are having trouble fitting the tires under the truck is it because the tires are too wide or because of the wheel placement due to axle width? if it is because of the axle width, and you have lots of room on the outside of the tire to fender clearance, then you could easily remedy that with a set of wheel spacers and possibly some longer wheel studs. that would save you tubbing the box, unless you plan to do that anyway.
the ford 8.8 has larger studs (at least mine did) but I drilled the flanges for a chevy pattern to match the front so I just installed the same size of stud to keep the lugs nuts the same size. if you were doing that anyway then a set of longer studs wouldn't be that much more cash outlay than a stock length set. then just some spacers of the correct width to get the tires back where you need them.
when I drilled my axle flanges for the chevy pattern I simply used an old stock ford rotor that fit the axle and zip disced the brake surface off so I ended up with just the wheel mounting flange area (I grabbed that spare rotor at pick n pull with the axle assembly from the explorer). I had a machinist buddy mark the new pattern on the wheel mounting flange of the rotor so the 5 new chevy pattern holes are in the clear space between the 5 ford pattern holes, then drilled those spots with a 1/4" drill. you could also do this yourself if you first make a pattern on a poster board template but a machinist is the better option. after that I installed that rotor onto the bare ford axle and tightened the lug nuts. this centers the pattern on the axle flange because the rotor is hub centric to the axle.it was then easy to mark the axle by inserting a drill through the 1/4" holes and making a mark deep enough in the flange so it can be marked with a center punch after the pattern is removed. this way the chance of wrecking the pattern by drilling too much in the same hole is less. then all thats left is to remove the pattern, center punch the new holes and drill the holes through the axle to the correct size for your new wheel stud. you also need to drill the rotors to match but you can use the pattern for that as well by bolting the pattern to the new rotor with the ford studs removed from the axle-they will fit the rotor's wheel stud holes. keep the pattern in the vehicle in case of a roadside brake issue later.
just a thought.

[whitedog76]

Ok, I crawled under my 54 and took a measuring stick with me. On my 54, I currently have the OE 62" rearend, 6" wide rims, 4.25 backspace, and 225/75/16 Goodyear SRA tires. So, there is 1.25" before the tire gets into the bed side and 2" on the fender side. With that being said, it stands to reason, you'll n

eed wheels that have 3.5-3.75 backspace and you'll have to mind your tire width.

Onto the Shock/Spring mounting. If you're going to use the original springs, you'll need a 1.75 spring perch, U bolts, and plate that fit an 8.8 and also shock mounts. Early Jeeps had 1.75 leaf springs, so the 4x4 guys have you covered there. Also, you can look at trailer parts to get what you need. Get some weld on shock mounts and put them where you want, since you'll be welding on new perches anyhow.

https://www.morris4x4center.com/perc...or-war175.html

https://www.etrailer.com/Accessories...e/TRSS300.html

https://www.etrailer.com/Accessories...RTP300200.html

https://www.ruffstuffspecialties.com...ARLY-UPLT.html

https://www.ruffstuffspecialties.com...SBRKT-CUR.html