LS Swap Crossmember choices

[Blazerowner]

First time posting in this section, but I am doing an ls swap in my 72 K5 and wanted some opinions. There are three options for an engine crossmember that I have found.

1. Dirty Dingo
2. DIY4X
3. Tilden / Pacific fab (found out it is not LS compatible)

From what I see the DD is nice, but you have to completely rebuild the front brake lines. It looks like they would possibly be located outside the frame.
The other two look like they use the stock locations especially the Tilden which is an updated design. The downside to the Tilden is it doesn’t drop out for oil pan access. Not a deal breaker for me though.
I don’t have the ability to design and build my own so I’m stuck with these choices. Would like to see what people have experienced with these. Especially with header selection, brake lines and any issues. I am using a 4l80 with the tcase in the stock location. May have to move the engine crossmember to accommodate the extra length.

[sweetk30]

years ago i was screwed over by dirty dingo and his product . he was a real a$$hat to me . i will never use him again . long story . . .

kirt at diy4x is super cool . he has got lots of my money with no problems.

this guy was making real good stuff untill he had to move shop . but he is not back up and running yet . http://www.totallynakedauto.com/

[Blazerowner]

I called DIY and the crossmember he makes is only for an early block and will not fit an LS. So that leaves Tilden outside of DD. I think I will just pick up the Tilden and see how it fits. People have said good things about theirs other than the crossmember doesn't drop out.

I think I read about your experience before. I actually have the DD crossmember and don't like the fact you have to move the brake lines. I've seen people discuss the install, but no one has said anything about the brake lines and how they routed them. My frame/truck is still all together and I just don't want to hassle with moving them..

I've seent the Totally Naked crossmember talked about, but isn't it only 73-87 that he was making?

[71meangreenc10]

Originally Posted by Blazerowner

I called DIY and the crossmember he makes is only for an early block and will not fit an LS. So that leaves Tilden outside of DD. I think I will just pick up the Tilden and see how it fits. People have said good things about theirs other than the crossmember doesn't drop out.

I think I read about your experience before. I actually have the DD crossmember and don't like the fact you have to move the brake lines. I've seen people discuss the install, but no one has said anything about the brake lines and how they routed them. My frame/truck is still all together and I just don't want to hassle with moving them..

I've seent the Totally Naked crossmember talked about, but isn't it only 73-87 that he was making?

Let me know how the Tilden works out. I am about to get one myself soon.

Smitty

[Blazerowner]

Will do. They said its a few weeks out to build it so I'm waiting for it. I already have my 4l80e and np205 bolted up. Man those together are heavy. Used two tranny jacks to get them in.

[special-K]

Originally Posted by Blazerowner

Will do. They said its a few weeks out to build it so I'm waiting for it. I already have my 4l80e and np205 bolted up. Man those together are heavy. Used two tranny jacks to get them in.

How did you go about that combination?

[sweetk30]

half a 4l80 weight is the convertor . . . and a np205 is up there also .

dam strong combo tho .

[Blazerowner]

Yeah I have an ls3 going in so I wanted a tough combo. Hopefully I can get it running by summer.

[Zoomad75]

You guys all forgot ORD. LS compatible.

http://www.offroaddesign.com/catalog...rossmember.htm

[sweetk30]

Originally Posted by Zoomad75

You guys all forgot ORD. LS compatible.

http://www.offroaddesign.com/catalog...rossmember.htm

no i didnt forget that one . . . . its for 73-91 square body trucks . he has a 67-72

[Blazerowner]

Yeah I wish they offered that for my year. I have their np205 bolted to my 4l80.

[87Skier]

Went through this last year. Be aware that most require a 2" lift. Called a few places and all of them told me the same.

[Blazerowner]

I’ve seen that as a possibility. Of course the DD one says no lift required. We’ll see what happens when I get the new one. I would use the DD but I don’t want to move my brake lines. One will be for sale when I’m done depending on what I am willing to do.

[Blazerowner]

Ok so the Tilden / Pacific fab crossmember came in and I'm happy with the quality. It's expensive but I just don't have the time to make something like this being a CPA. THere is definitely an issue with it being close to the pumpkin. I am not really unhappy with this as most people have said this will come up. I do have a 2.5" lift kit sitting in my shop for it and who knows the amount of sag I have in the stock springs. I haven't even put the engine in yet. One thing to keep in mind is I have it forward all the way. I have not mocked the engine up yet so I don't know if it will be slid back toward the transmission yet. I do like this design because I don't have to re route my brake lines and it is slotted to give about 2 inches of adjustment front to rear. The downside is the middle crossmember is not removable but I suppose this could be modified. I'm not real worried about it.

[Blazerowner]

Anyone have experience with headers? There are no selections for 4wd so Im wondering if I should just order a couple different sets to see how they fit. Im fine with a little modifying of the frame.

I Like these:

https://www.summitracing.com/parts/hed-45666

[greentruck]

I used these with my ls6/4l80e/np205 and they fit perfect with the exception of trimming the drivers side tab that comes off the 4l80e.

http://www.dougthorleyheaders.com/19...-headers_15737

[Blazerowner]

Did you have the same crossmember I am using? Did you mount the np205 in the stock location? Those are some nice looking headers. I might look into a set.

Originally Posted by greentruck

I used these with my ls6/4l80e/np205 and they fit perfect with the exception of trimming the drivers side tab that comes off the 4l80e.

http://www.dougthorleyheaders.com/19...-headers_15737

[greentruck]

Originally Posted by Blazerowner

Did you have the same crossmember I am using? Did you mount the np205 in the stock location? Those are some nice looking headers. I might look into a set.

I used the Dirty Dingo crossmember. I notched the passenger side rear bracket to let the brake lines clear in their stock position by the frame rail. The front bracket already had the notch. The np205 is 1.5" to the rear from the stock position (if I remember right). I mocked the combo up in the stock position with the core support w/ radiator installed and an old junk cab. I wasn't good with it. I moved it all around until I had adequate clearance from the radiator (for changing belts, water pump etc..) and good clearance at the rear as well. I already assumed I would have to get my drive shafts adjusted. Cutting the rear one and extending the front will cost me about 300.

[Blazerowner]

I’m trying to avoid moving the tcase. I want to keep the shifter in the same spot and not modify it. Hopefully I can get things mocked up soon.

[Blazerowner]

So I mocked up the DD slider mounts and I'm not sure if I can use them. The Tilden mounts mount further back on the block by a couple of inches. I don't know if they are backwards but they look the same either direction. Since the cross member is adjustable I think these will work and still have room for the pan. This is the mock up block.

[Blazerowner]

A little more progress. Everything seems to be lining up great with the Tilden Cross-member. It will be a little tight up front for the accessories, but that is only due to me keeping the stock location for the t-case. So far I have a couple inches of space when I measure. The Holley pan has plenty of clearance. One issue I have is the transmission is cocked to the right. Not sure why. I'm going to try to get it to move over when I have a friend over to put more effort in it.

[BigRed76]

Do you have any updates on the engine install and crossmember/front axle clearance?

[Blazerowner]

The engine is in and seems to fit fine. It is pretty far forward but clears everything. I'm in the process of doing the wiring and installing a vintage air kit. The old AC unit is all out so I have much more room. The front accessory drive kit clears the fans. I would say about 3-4 inches. I had to elongate the holes on the frame about 1/2 inch but otherwise it was bolt in. I have hooker 2.5" Manifolds and bought their adapters for a 73 up truck. Those fit but in reverse. So the O2 sensor are pointing inboard instead of out. I will have to move it because it will hit the tranny. Not very cost effective but I hate the shops around here and I don't have access to an exhaust bender. I'll get more photos of it when I get a chance.

I have my lift all done as well. It's a 3" from ORD. It lifted the truck a lot from the old saggy springs that were original to the truck. I don't have an exact picture showing the clearance from the pumpkin other than the attached photo, but it's a lot higher and will not get close to it. A 2.5 lift would probably be plenty. I also had to change out the ORD tie rod for the steering. Its just too close to the spring. Went back to the stock one with the dropped rod.

[Blazerowner]

Took some more pictures.

[Blazerowner]

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