69 c20 camber issue

[Vortec69]

Hey all. I recently did a disk brake swap on a 69 c20. I used spindles from a 72 c20. I re used my control arms and replaced the ball joints with new 72 ones and replaced all the bushings and shafts also. I also replace the rest of the steering components with new 72 parts. My problem is now I have positive camber on both sides with all the shims and spacers removed. Are the lower control arms longer on 71-72 c20’s? I did have to put the new ball joints in the lathe and turn them down about.020 so they would go in my 69 lower arms so that makes me think the lower arms must be different. Any help would be greatly appreciated!!

[Vortec69]

Anyone have an idea? I can’t find anyone that knows for sure and can’t seem to find anything on the web. I guess I just need to get different lower arms.

[Steeveedee]

I also modified the later model ball joints in order to get them to fit in my old control arms. I have decent camber, though, according to the spec sheet I got from the shop. I don't remember what the numbers were, but I do recall that they were within tolerance. No idea where that spec sheet is.

Can you provide some pictures? Maybe something will jump out at someone here.

[Vortec69]

I’ll try to get some on here tomorrow if I can figure out how to. I’m new to the forum thing, lol. Thanks for your reply!

[Vortec69]

Here are some pics if they help.

[Vortec69]

Wow! I can’t believe no one on here dosen’t have some kind of answer for me!l always have the issues that no one can help with!! I thought there were some hard core gurus on here!!

[toolboxchev]

Originally Posted by Steeveedee

I also modified the later model ball joints in order to get them to fit in my old control arms. I have decent camber, though, according to the spec sheet I got from the shop. I don't remember what the numbers were, but I do recall that they were within tolerance. No idea where that spec sheet is.

Can you provide some pictures? Maybe something will jump out at someone here.

How did you modify the ball joints??? I find it extremely difficult to envision doing anything to to a lower ball joint. Had shop press them right in, and done.

[Vortec69]

Like I said before, I put them on a lathe and turned down the cup I guess you would call it , and cut the knurl off so it was the same size as the 69 joint. I didn’t modify the stud that goes in the spindle.

[Steeveedee]

Originally Posted by toolboxchev

How did you modify the ball joints??? I find it extremely difficult to envision doing anything to to a lower ball joint. Had shop press them right in, and done.

I have my own 60 ton press. When I set them up to press them in, I discovered there was no way it was going to happen. I mic'd them and found that they were too big- don't remember how much. The .020" that Vortec69 used seems about what I did, though I only addressed the knurled section. I then filed off enough of the knurl to allow them to be pressed in. They were still a press fit.

[Vortec69]

Exactly what I did. Still took 5 tons to press in. Toolbox replaced his with what it originally had in it, that’s why his went in easy.

[tdangle]

did you ever get this figured out. I've run into the same thing with my 70 C20

[Vortec69]

Originally Posted by tdangle

did you ever get this figured out. I've run into the same thing with my 70 C20

I have not. Finally found a some what happy spot where it didn’t wear the tires but it is not right. I can’t seem to find an answer. I bought new lower a frames which made no difference. The only thing I haven’t tried is uppers but I don’t think there’s any difference. Do u have the answer???
Posted via Mobile Device

[pjmoreland]

PerformanceOnline.com sells this thinner spacer set for the upper control arms that might improve your situation a bit. They replace the stock spacers.

https://www.performanceonline.com/19...-Control-Arms/

[BAD1916]

After I rebuilt the front end on my 71 2500 suburban I used the same spacers that were on there originally. I documented how many so I would be close. After getting it back together I had the same issue with positive camber. Turned out my uppers were on the wrong side. Swapped them side to side and everything was good to go. Also installed my centerlink backwards so apparently I don’t take enough pictures during disassembly.

[Big Kev-O]

There was another thread about this issue a few months ago and it turned out the upper arms were installed on the wrong side of the truck. Make sure the upper arm is installed with the rubber bumper toward the rear of the truck.
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[Vortec69]

Well I have checked my uppers and the rubber is to the rear. All the spacers have been removed and have 2 shims under 1 stud and 1 on the other. Same on both sides. Can’t get camber any closer. Not wearing the tires but you have to kinda get use to driving it because it doesn’t want to come back straight on its own. Can’t get the caster right with out messing up the camber. I’ve tried everything but different upper a arms , but I think it’s a waste of time. I did a 1/2 ton before and didn’t have 1 issue, but this one has me baffled. All diner parts came from a 72 c20. What else is there? I can’t be the only one this has happened too. I have heard a rumor of different width frames. Anyone else know anything about that?
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[tdangle]

I'm following as it looks like I'm going to run into the same issue. Would love someone to measure from center of ball joint to center of shaft on both upper and lower a-arms to compare with mine. I can't imagine that the frames are different. I think something is getting overlooked.

[Boog]

There are numerous threads covering alignment issues down in the Suspension forum. I feel sure you will find your answers there.
Like this one.
https://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/...0+camber+issue

[Caddylackn]

Maybe you have big block heavy duty coil springs in there. With a lighter small block installed, that could give you a bit of lift and a camber increase.

[Vortec69]

Originally Posted by Caddylackn

Maybe you have big block heavy duty coil springs in there. With a lighter small block installed, that could give you a bit of lift and a camber increase.

It has a vortec 454 with big block springs.
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[Vortec69]

I just realized that I said there was a camber issue. I need to correct that with caster. I can’t get the caster correct without messing up the camber. I’m sure I’ll get flack for saying this, but I’ve considered grinding the back side of the control arm shaft flat to get more adjustment. I’m not doing that until I know for sure the upper control arm is the same length. That’s the only thing left to try.
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[SCOTI]

Originally Posted by Vortec69

I just realized that I said there was a camber issue. I need to correct that with caster. I can’t get the caster correct without messing up the camber. I’m sure I’ll get flack for saying this, but I’ve considered grinding the back side of the control arm shaft flat to get more adjustment. I’m not doing that until I know for sure the upper control arm is the same length. That’s the only thing left to try.
Posted via Mobile Device

You can also do the 'Caster Mod'. It will increase the Caster w/o requiring the removal/addition of shims. By this I mean it would add Caster to the current set-up. That adjustment itself might require re-setting the alignment: http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...ght=caster+mod

I did this on my Squarebody dually & achieved pretty decent Caster. At a later date, I then changed the lower arms for aftermarket arms (air-bag suspension) that pushed them forward an additional .250" for a final Caster yield of 6.9/7.4.

[Vortec69]

Hey thanks for that link ! That’s some good reading! I’ll definitely consider this!
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[SCOTI]

Originally Posted by Vortec69

Hey thanks for that link ! That’s some good reading! I’ll definitely consider this!
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No problem. it works too. My first attempt moved the modified stock HD lower arms forward .750" using that caster Mod. The aftermarket arms were 1" forward (as built into the arm) & utilized standard shaft spacing I believe.