Lowering

[Geos 72]

Hello to everyone. I need a little advice. I'm thinking of lowering my 72 C10 2" in front and 4 in the rear. I have coil springs all around. Could I do it with just lowering springs and shocks or would I need all the rest of the parts like c-notch , brackets and shock relocators and what ever else? I heard you would need all those other parts only if you lowered it more than 4".

[SC1969c10]

Originally Posted by Geos 72

Hello to everyone. I need a little advice. I'm thinking of lowering my 72 C10 2" in front and 4 in the rear. I have coil springs all around. Could I do it with just lowering springs and shocks or would I need all the rest of the parts like c-notch , brackets and shock relocators and what ever else? I heard you would need all those other parts only if you lowered it more than 4".

From what ive read up on your right with the extras being required past 4. Im interested to see some others chime in as my trucks 2 in the front right now, stock out back.
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[HO455]

For the amount of lowering you want I would go with 2" drop spindles in the front and 2" drop blocks with 2" springs in the back. This will allow you to maintain the most of the factory suspension travel giving you better ride quality.
Now the caveats. New spindles may mean a shift to disc brakes, but you could reuse your front springs. Some 15" wheels won't clear dropped spindles. Plus you will loose some ground clearance under the spindles and trailing arms. There are lots of threads on dropped spindles on the board. C notch is not required for 4" in the rear using blocks.. Shock relocation won't be necessary in the front but a good idea in the rear as the factory set up isn't optimal. That being said you could do the drop blocks and spring approach and see how it rides. Then if you're not satisfied then you can rework the shock mounts. The angle of the rear shocks gets greater the lower you go and the shocks ability to dampen the axle movement is reduced.

[AirSpeed]

Originally Posted by Geos 72

Hello to everyone. I need a little advice. I'm thinking of lowering my 72 C10 2" in front and 4 in the rear. I have coil springs all around. Could I do it with just lowering springs and shocks or would I need all the rest of the parts like c-notch , brackets and shock relocators and what ever else? I heard you would need all those other parts only if you lowered it more than 4".

I lowered my 69 C10 4 and 3 with just springs and new shocks, no issues at all
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[ZEKE68]

I am running 2 1/2" drop spindles in front and 4" drop coils in the back with no frame notching. I still have around 3 1/2" travel before the rear axle touches the rubber bumper. Don't see why you would need to notch at 4" drop unless you carried loads in the bed.

[SC1969c10]

Originally Posted by ZEKE68

I am running 2 1/2" drop spindles in front and 4" drop coils in the back with no frame notching. I still have around 3 1/2" travel before the rear axle touches the rubber bumper. Don't see why you would need to notch at 4" drop unless you carried loads in the bed.

Got a photo?
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[Geos 72]

I forgot to mention that I have disk brakes in the front. I don't have much cash to play with so maybe I'll just try the lowering springs and shocks and see how that goes or just leave it the way it is. Thanks everyone, I appreciate the advice and help.

[ga-stepside]

I am running 2 1/2" drop spindles and 4" lowering springs in the rear with shock relocators. No problems. I have 18" rims with 255-60-R18 series tires on the front and 265-60-R18 on the rear.

[demian5]

I went 3/4 with this kit using 3" springs and a 1" block. Never bottoms out, no bumpsteer, and the suspension geometry is still good.

http://www.classicperform.com/Store/...6372CSSK-D.htm

[RustyBucket]

For ref. if you're gonna stay with the truck rally wheels. Mine's 2.5 drop spindles w/1 coil cut on the front and 4" springs w/ a 1" block on the rear. 255/60/15 front 275/60/15 rear. No rub, no bottoming on the rear. I did add an adj. track bar, short shocks(rear) and the shock relocator kit. Rides a little choppy I think.

[mkmc69]

Originally Posted by RustyBucket

For ref. if you're gonna stay with the truck rally wheels. Mine's 2.5 drop spindles w/1 coil cut on the front and 4" springs w/ a 1" block on the rear. 255/60/15 front 275/60/15 rear. No rub, no bottoming on the rear. I did add an adj. track bar, short shocks(rear) and the shock relocator kit. Rides a little choppy I think.

I like the stance of your truck. What do you mean exactly by ''Choppy''? As in, maybe its a little on the stiff side, because of cutting the springs in the front? Just wanted a little more feedback, because I'm getting ready to go through all of this on my own truck.

[RustyBucket]

Yeah, it rode softer before I cut the coils on the front. It had more spring travel before. It's not bad but my wife fusses if we're on a bumpy road or parking lot. I don't have a front sway bar but it goes around curves & corners with very little body lean.

[mkmc69]

Thanks for the info. Maybe I will just do the spindles, and not cut the springs then. I still like the way yours looks though.

[68 P.O.S.]

Every truck is different. Some folks don't need a c-notch with 6" lowering springs in the rear. Some do need a c-notch with only 4" springs. Luckily I didn't need a c-notch with my 6" springs and I haven't noticed any bottoming out either. I advise against cutting or heating springs as well, unless you like a crappy ride lol

[azle]

No notch 20" wheels, when it is aired down the Diff is sitting on the frame.

Azle