N00B Post - Air Cleaner/carb connection

[LuckyRabbit4]

I just bought a 66 Chevy c10 inline 6 pick up stepside less than 48 hours ago. I've looked it over and found things wrong or missing and some things that have completely baffled me on how to replace.

First things first, the air cleaner was off the truck when I got it. So I'm not sure how to put it back on. I've seen pictures, watched videos, looked for diagrams but for some reason I just can't figure it out. I attached a picture of what I've got. In most pictures they have a mount on top of the carb that the cleaner box bolts into. or a bolt coming from the carb up through the air cleaner. But neither is true here. Need to figure this out before I want to drive it at all.

Next, shifting and transmission. 3 on the tree. When going from Rev/1st to 2nd/3rd I have to push HARD or pull HARD on the shifter to get it to go from one side of neutral to the other. Not sure why or how to fix it. Buying new rubber bushings for the rods anyway but I feel like there is something else I need to grease, clean, replace. Drivable but very difficult to shift.

Thanks for the help in advance. Once these two things are fixed the rest of the project can take off!

[Lil Loafer]

What kind of carb is that? It doesnt look anything like the one on my straight 6.

[LuckyRabbit4]

Not sure. I've seen one single barrel design that looks similar but it has the bar going across the top with a bolt hole to screw into. It looks just as old and original as the rest of the engine.

I did see one video that a guy had an "air recycler"? between the carburetor and air filter. No idea what that was. This is killing me lol.

[Lil Loafer]

Just from looking up rochester 1 bbl carbs it looks like it might be a model b? Looking at picture of those they appear to have a piece across the opening for the threaded stud to atach to. Yours looks to be missing this.

[LuckyRabbit4]

Originally Posted by Lil Loafer

Just from looking up rochester 1 bbl carbs it looks like it might be a model b? Looking at picture of those they appear to have a piece across the opening for the threaded stud to atach to. Yours looks to be missing this.

That's what I thought as well. But how did it come off? Any idea where I can buy just the cross bar piece? Hate to buy a whole new carb just because of this.

lmc.com is hard to find carburetor parts. just whole carbs.

[Lil Loafer]

Try looking on eBay. If you have the capability, you could try making your own too.

[ACK]

Originally Posted by Lil Loafer

Just from looking up rochester 1 bbl carbs it looks like it might be a model b? Looking at picture of those they appear to have a piece across the opening for the threaded stud to attach to. Yours looks to be missing this.

Yup, it's a Rochester B. If you're lucky, the metal tag is still on it to identify which version you have. There's 2 holes at the top of the carb for roll pin to hold a thin stamped piece of steel that's threaded in the center that in turn holds a threaded rod for the air filter assembly. Here's a partial pic of mine with a roll pin circled in red. Should be easy to fab a replacement. As a side, rebuilding a Rochester B is easy and there's plenty of articles, threads, and videos on how to do it.

Sorry, can't help with the shifter problem.

[LuckyRabbit4]

I found the metal piece in a box that came with the truck. Why they took it off? I have no idea. But it put it on and it fit but when I screw the filter case on, right before it's tight enough to hold well it somehow twists out of the grooves and everything comes off. I think I'm missing the roll pin you're showing in the pic.

[LuckyRabbit4]

As for the shifting, it's not really getting easier to go forward and back but instead just easier to know when I can pull hard and get it to switch. Afraid I'll break the shifter if I keep trying to fix it

[ACK]

Originally Posted by LuckyRabbit4

As for the shifting, it's not really getting easier to go forward and back but instead just easier to know when I can pull hard and get it to switch. Afraid I'll break the shifter if I keep trying to fix it

I don't have experience with the 3 on the tree, but this might help – lever "B" might be the culprit. Keep us posted on how you make out and the fix once figured out.

[luvbowties]

Originally Posted by LuckyRabbit4

I just bought a 66 Chevy c10 inline 6 pick up stepside less than 48 hours ago. I've looked it over and found things wrong or missing and some things that have completely baffled me on how to replace.

First things first, the air cleaner was off the truck when I got it. So I'm not sure how to put it back on. I've seen pictures, watched videos, looked for diagrams but for some reason I just can't figure it out. I attached a picture of what I've got. In most pictures they have a mount on top of the carb that the cleaner box bolts into. or a bolt coming from the carb up through the air cleaner. But neither is true here. Need to figure this out before I want to drive it at all.

Next, shifting and transmission. 3 on the tree. When going from Rev/1st to 2nd/3rd I have to push HARD or pull HARD on the shifter to get it to go from one side of neutral to the other. Not sure why or how to fix it. Buying new rubber bushings for the rods anyway but I feel like there is something else I need to grease, clean, replace. Drivable but very difficult to shift.

Thanks for the help in advance. Once these two things are fixed the rest of the project can take off!

You said, "Next, shifting and transmission. 3 on the tree. When going from Rev/1st to 2nd/3rd I have to push HARD or pull HARD on the shifter to get it to go from one side of neutral to the other. Not sure why or how to fix it." I'm answering from memory that is from 50 years ago, but I think your problem is located up higher in steering column. Try removing st. wheel 1st. Then horn, turn signal accessories, and everything to get to where the neutral 'rod'(maybe a sleeve)slides up and down inside the mast jacket. The clearance between the 2 need lubricating to free up the neutral 'gate' when you lift up/let down to move from 1st/reverse to 2nd/3rd. Unless this moves freely, it'll get even worse to where it'll stick in the 2nd/3rd position of the neutral gate" and make it darn near impossible to 'reach' 1st and reverse at all.
HTH, Sam

[LuckyRabbit4]

Originally Posted by luvbowties

You said, "Next, shifting and transmission. 3 on the tree. When going from Rev/1st to 2nd/3rd I have to push HARD or pull HARD on the shifter to get it to go from one side of neutral to the other. Not sure why or how to fix it." I'm answering from memory that is from 50 years ago, but I think your problem is located up higher in steering column. Try removing st. wheel 1st. Then horn, turn signal accessories, and everything to get to where the neutral 'rod'(maybe a sleeve)slides up and down inside the mast jacket. The clearance between the 2 need lubricating to free up the neutral 'gate' when you lift up/let down to move from 1st/reverse to 2nd/3rd. Unless this moves freely, it'll get even worse to where it'll stick in the 2nd/3rd position of the neutral gate" and make it darn near impossible to 'reach' 1st and reverse at all.
HTH, Sam

Yea! That helps a lot. Made it easier to move up and down between each side and find neutral almost everytime. I think I need to tighten the shifter completely because it has a lot of play.

What I'm trying next is to align the shifters on the column under the hood. Completely grease everything I can get my hands on.

I watched a video that a guy lined up the 2 shift rods by hand (while in neutral) and put a screw driver through the two sides to keep it straight. Took the clamp off at the other end of the shifting area to make everything move easier. Then he loosened the 2nd/3rd shift rod bolt just enough to tap on the top to take the tension off that the screwdriver was putting on it.

He tightened all that back up and went to the clamp on the bottom part of the shifting area and put it back on. But before he tightened that completely, he got it together and tapped the bolts on the shifting rods side to shorten the gap between 2nd/3rd and rev, 1st. The neutral gap went from maybe 1/4" to just about 1/8th on either side. Tightened it all up and was flawless.

I should do that tomorrow (9/13) and I will repost with my outcome. Fingers crossed. Trying to get this truck going before next weekend!


Thanks everyone for the help.

[LuckyRabbit4]

It worked (my last post). I adjusted the whole shifting area under the hood and put grease on everything I could get my hands on. Shifts much easier through all gears. Only thing is back and forth through rev/1st to neutral.. Just have to find neutral everytime. I think I need a rubber bushings on the bolt that holds the shift rod.

Pushing the rods closer and making the gap for neutral to travel smaller had to be the key.

Next step, new hoses (pcv valve hose has been busted the whole time). May rebuild carb because it leaks around the gasket area on top but may be stuck floats? We'll see.

[ACK]

Originally Posted by LuckyRabbit4

It worked (my last post). I adjusted the whole shifting area under the hood and put grease on everything I could get my hands on. Shifts much easier through all gears. Only thing is back and forth through rev/1st to neutral.. Just have to find neutral everytime. I think I need a rubber bushings on the bolt that holds the shift rod.

Pushing the rods closer and making the gap for neutral to travel smaller had to be the key.

Next step, new hoses (pcv valve hose has been busted the whole time). May rebuild carb because it leaks around the gasket area on top but may be stuck floats? We'll see.

Nice when things go in the right direction. As for the carb leak, they're notorious for that because they're cast aluminum, making them susceptible to warping. There's threads regarding this and recommendations on how to address it. My carb is shimmed with a second gasket at the high spot, it doesn't completely fix it, but it slows the leak down to a trickle.

[LuckyRabbit4]

Originally Posted by ACK

Nice when things go in the right direction. As for the carb leak, they're notorious for that because they're cast aluminum, making them susceptible to warping. There's threads regarding this and recommendations on how to address it. My carb is shimmed with a second gasket at the high spot, it doesn't completely fix it, but it slows the leak down to a trickle.

I'll look for the threads right now. Trying to get this truck on the road for a test drive this weekend if I can. See how the gears feel and everything. Had it almost 2 weeks and drove it maybe 5 miles.

[vince1]

If there is a part missing such as the roll pin it could be laying in the intake manifold. Maybe shine a flashlight in there and have a look or take the carb off and feed a magnet along either side.

[LuckyRabbit4]

Originally Posted by vince1

If there is a part missing such as the roll pin it could be laying in the intake manifold. Maybe shine a flashlight in there and have a look or take the carb off and feed a magnet along either side.

I'm going to take the carb off completely in a couple days to check out the warping that was mentioned before. I'll be sure to scavenge everything I can to look for those and other loose items. Replacing the valve cover gasket as well.