47-55.1 3 point or 4 point seat belts in 52?

[NeoJuice]

I purchased lap belts a while ago and I was going to install them in the truck until the 'wifey' said no way.

So from a safety point of view I'm looking for either a 3 point or 4 point harness to use in my truck with original bench seat. Using the 3 point I would need to drill a hole for the shoulder belt. If I used the 4 point I could run the belt over the bar and bolt it to the floor. The only thing I worry about with the 4 point is not having the adjustability slack needed for shoulder checking as you would with a 3 point.

Anyone have any thoughts? Or should I just go get some shoulder belts out of a vehicle at the wreckers? i tried to use the search feature on the page but didnt come up with any results for 47-54 and what people might be using.

At some point down the road the bench seat will be reupholstered.

[mr48chev]

My wife would much rather have just the lap belt as she hates to wear the regular 3 point belts in any car.

I've never seen that over both shoulders unit before you posted it but as good as it should work it might be a bit too inconvenient to use. I'd feel safer with it on though.

I used to use donor rig seat belts all the time but now days takeing a belt out of a 40 year old donor rig doesn't have the appeal that it did when those same donors were five years old. Julianos belts may not be the cheapest but they have been in the seat belt for enthusiast rigs business for 40+ years and have quality products https://www.julianos.com/Seat-Belts-s/96.htm

[NeoJuice]

Thanks for the reply mr48chev,

I found the 4 point seat belt on https://www.wescoperformance.com

[whitedog76]

I’m going to vote for the 3 point. At one time I thought the 4 point/ dual shoulder was the way to go, but without a racing seat, breast strap or seat bar, they aren’t much better than a lap belt. In a crash, you can come out between the shoulder straps. The 3 point is better because it goes across your body.

[GreasyLikeaBurger]

Originally Posted by whitedog76

I’m going to vote for the 3 point. At one time I thought the 4 point/ dual shoulder was the way to go, but without a racing seat, breast strap or seat bar, they aren’t much better than a lap belt. In a crash, you can come out between the shoulder straps. The 3 point is better because it goes across your body.

I agree. You would also need to have a mounting point for the 4pt higher than your shoulders. Since your shoulders are higher than the seat back, you would need to add a bar that would basically run the height of the middle of your rear window.

[hogfarm]

I don't have any seat belts in my 54,and it is strange.I'm thinking lap belt

[NeoJuice]

Thanks for the input guys. I'll either get something from the wreckers out of a newer truck or look at the julianos belts. By the time I order them and get them up here to Canada it will be over $300 for belts. But I guess what is your life really worth right?

[_Ogre]

i agree with your wife, lap belt is worthless in a crash; it's all i have in truk and still don't wear them
i'm with whitedog, 3 point is good enough for 99.9% of the oem vehicles
a bud has 4 point in a ac cobra, it takes him for ever to buckle up

as for jy belts... you need to find them from an old car, new ones have the retractors that tighten with the airbag
old car 3 point seems like a waste of time

[mikebte]

I'm jumping on the 3 point vote. I have them in my 59 and I had my wife and I both sit in the truck during install. Installed them in a spot we would both be comfortable.
I purchased new as the junk yards wanted too much money for the belts.

[mikec4193]

I did a 3 point on my last build...trying to upload pics and I am not having any luck...

MikeC

[Driver_WT]

Originally Posted by NeoJuice

Using the 3 point I would need to drill a hole for the shoulder belt.

You will have to weld in a mounting plate for the shoulder belt mount, and not just drill a hole. I would not drive with just a lap belt.

[NeoJuice]

The Julia is belts come with the mounting plate for the shoulder belt. This would be bolted to the pillar and welded.

[vintovka]

I used two 3 point and one lap belt in mine. I found them on ebay for reasonable and ordered the two side belts and a matching lap belt for the middle seat. Beyond the anchoring issues most aftermarket belts are set up for bucket seats. The AD bench requires a approximately 24 inches of belt long enough to pass up from the floor and over the seat top. I bought some matching belt, cut them to length and had the hardware sewn on. I also used the exterior grab handles as the upper anchor point. The middle belt serves to hold the center console/armrest in place. Think total parts cost was under $40 plus $10 for sewing ends on.

[Jbrenyo]

Hi. My son and I re-doing his truck (long story) and I searched for this thread because all it has in it right now are lap belts. I would be interested in putting in a 3-way harness but why does it need to be welded? The inside of the cab is all painted and finished so I would like to avoid welding if possible. Will bolting with a strong backing plate work?

Thanks in advance for your thoughts.

[NeoJuice]

Funny that this thread popped up. I actually just got my seat belts installed this weekend.

I purchased the belts from a Canadian reseller of retrobelt.com after being in contact with them. I went to the local bolt supply house and picked up all grade 8 hardware and all the required big washers, lock washers nuts and bolts and L brackets to mount the retractor to the floor for a fraction of the cost of the kits they sell online and there also grade 8!

When it came to the shoulder mount I made my own out of some 1/8" steel plate that I had and made two rectangular brackets about 1.5" X 3". I then drilled three holes in it for the shoulder mount. Two smaller holes for the rivets and a larger hole for the shoulder mount. I then welded the nut onto the back of the plate.

Fortunately my hands were small enough to slip in between the cab and the inner wall. I put in the shoulder bolt first to hold the bracket in place then lined up the holes for the rivets. Put the rivets in then removed the bolt and attached the shoulder mount.

It worked out pretty good and those shoulder mounts are not going anywhere. I also used a bit of lock tight on the threads as well.

Pictures for reference. If you need other pictures I can probably take some for you.

I've seen other kits use the rivets so I figured I would go that route.

[MiraclePieCo]

Originally Posted by NeoJuice

Funny that this thread popped up. I actually just got my seat belts installed this weekend.

Fortunately my hands were small enough to slip in between the cab and the inner wall. I put in the shoulder bolt first to hold the bracket in place then lined up the holes for the rivets. Put the rivets in then removed the bolt and attached the shoulder mount.

Your setup looks exactly like mine. I just reached inside the double wall too; no welding or rivets required.

[59chev]

Originally Posted by NeoJuice

Funny that this thread popped up. I actually just got my seat belts installed this weekend.

I purchased the belts from a Canadian reseller of retrobelt.com after being in contact with them. I went to the local bolt supply house and picked up all grade 8 hardware and all the required big washers, lock washers nuts and bolts and L brackets to mount the retractor to the floor for a fraction of the cost of the kits they sell online and there also grade 8!

When it came to the shoulder mount I made my own out of some 1/8" steel plate that I had and made two rectangular brackets about 1.5" X 3". I then drilled three holes in it for the shoulder mount. Two smaller holes for the rivets and a larger hole for the shoulder mount. I then welded the nut onto the back of the plate.

Fortunately my hands were small enough to slip in between the cab and the inner wall. I put in the shoulder bolt first to hold the bracket in place then lined up the holes for the rivets. Put the rivets in then removed the bolt and attached the shoulder mount.

It worked out pretty good and those shoulder mounts are not going anywhere. I also used a bit of lock tight on the threads as well.

Pictures for reference. If you need other pictures I can probably take some for you.

I've seen other kits use the rivets so I figured I would go that route.

Do you mind passing along the name of the Canadian resseller that you used? I'll be looking for belts for my 59 soon.

Thanks.

[NeoJuice]

Look up what you want on retrobelt.com and then give the guys a call at https://www.cipretro.ca/ they are the Canadian re-seller for retrobelt.com or just look at the cipretro.ca site.

Funny thing is they sell Volkswagen parts. There main business is https://www.cip1.ca is where the invoice came from. Orders over $99 free shipping. I thought free shipping meant canada post but it was fedex.

I got the belts for a killer price and free fedex shipping to my door. No duties or paying expensive exchange rate either and I believe there in Delta B.C.

Great transaction with them and happy with the product. Probably will do business with them again.

[Matt_50]

I drilled a hole in some 1/8 pieces I had and welded a nut to each one. Drilled a hole in where I wanted seatbelt and I was just barely able to et my hand to hold it from the back. Its a 5 window and was a tight fit, in fact I dropped one down inside.... what a pain that was. I tightened it up and then used a self tapping screw above and below similar to how Neojuice used rivets. With the little covers that go on you cant really see them.

[59chev]

That's great. Thanks!