gauge question

[RTHarvey]

I have a 1967 Chevy PU, equipped with factory ammeter, oil pressure and temperature gauges. I have some issues with the gauges, and thought I would get some advice from the forum. 1. The ammeter doesn't work at all. 2. The speedometer works, but the odometer doesn't. I can buy a new repro speedo (with odometer) for $75 from LMC, or I can spend about twice that and have the original rebuilt. Any advice on that choice? 3. The fuel gauge works, but when it is full, it reads about full plus a quarter. Actually it reads a quarter tank higher than truth all the time. Can this be fixed? 4. Similar situation on the oil gauge. When the engine is not running, it sits on the first mark, and when running at speed it reads above the top mark. In other words, it indicates one mark high all the time. And this be repaired? Any insight or advice would be appreciated.

[LockDoc]

Originally Posted by RTHarvey

I have a 1967 Chevy PU, equipped with factory ammeter, oil pressure and temperature gauges. I have some issues with the gauges, and thought I would get some advice from the forum. 1. The ammeter doesn't work at all. 2. The speedometer works, but the odometer doesn't. I can buy a new repro speedo (with odometer) for $75 from LMC, or I can spend about twice that and have the original rebuilt. Any advice on that choice? 3. The fuel gauge works, but when it is full, it reads about full plus a quarter. Actually it reads a quarter tank higher than truth all the time. Can this be fixed? 4. Similar situation on the oil gauge. When the engine is not running, it sits on the first mark, and when running at speed it reads above the top mark. In other words, it indicates one mark high all the time. And this be repaired? Any insight or advice would be appreciated.

I would check some of the salvage yards around you and see about getting a different gauge cluster. I'm wondering if someone has had the cluster apart and didn't get the needles in the correct positions when re-assembled.

You are not going to see much movement from the ammeter. It may move one needle width to the left when cranking the engine over and one needle width to the right after the engine starts. You might want to check the 4 amp fuses at the front corners of the core support. There will be two small black fuse holders on the engine side of the core support. They could be corroded or the fuses bad.

The fuel gauge problem sounds like the float might need to be adjusted or the needle has been re-seated incorrectly.

The oil gauge is mechanical so the only way it could be off that much is if the needle was installed incorrectly or the Bourdon tube has been over pressurized and expanded.

You might want to inspect the cluster ground wire to make sure it is making good contact with the dash. (see picture below)

LockDoc

[RTHarvey]

Locdoc--thanks for the ideas. I didn't know about the inline fuses. One question--what is the "core support" (so I will know where to look for the fuses)?

[FirstOwner69]

The core support, also known as the "radiator core support" runs across the front of the truck from fender to fender and has the radiator, headlights, battery tray, grille, etc. mounted on it.

The pictures below show the approximate locations of the inline fuses (circled in red) that Leon mentioned. The location in the pictures are approximate. I say approximate since my truck originally did not have the optional gauge package. I located them where they are when I installed factory gauges based on info on this site. The fuses are SFE 4s that are only 5/8" long. I circled the junction block in yellow for reference.

Picture 1: Left side behind headlight.
Pictures 2 and 3: Right side with the fender mounted junction block circled in yellow for reference.
Picture 4: Closeup of the fuse holder.

[TBONE1964]

Hello,

I can help you with any and all gauge cluster issues you are having.

I can offer you a volt gauge conversion which replaces the amp gauge with a volt gauge and looks like something GM would have done. It is more useful than a amp gauge as it constantly shows you what your battery voltage is. This is nice to know if your voltage regulator ever sticks. It would be reflected by a higher than normal volt reading on the gauge. Amp gauges do not provide that.

Your fuel gauge sounds like the resistor has failed. Very common issue on the fuel gauges in these trucks.

I have the ability to repair your odometer as well. I can also check calibration on your speedometer and adjust if needed.

I also can check and calibrate your oil gauge. If it is not repairable, I have suitable replacements.

Basically I specialize in restoration, repair and part sales for 67-72 Gauge clusters.

Thank you,
Tom