70 GMC 1500 New Brake Suggestions?!?

[hotwls13]

I have a 70 GMC 1500 Long Bed. The brake master cylinder, booster, dist block, lines etc appear to be original and very rusty.

Plan to replace all brake components with new or remanufactured parts (minus shoes and hubs as they look fine). So wheel cylinders, hoses, Master cylinder and Booster.

I'm not converting to disc, I'm not needing some high end wilwood brake system either.

My question is, do I just piece this together from autozone or other local shop? Or is there a kit out there that I'm not finding in my google searches? I think I want to keep the same size booster (though I don't know if it matters)

Prices I'm finding locally are:

Booster $96
Master $36
Wheel cylinders Rear x2 $10
Wheel cylinders Front x2 $13
Brake Hose front x2 $10
Brake Hose rear x2 $14

For a total of $226. Any better deals out there??

[Steeveedee]

Probably not, those prices look competitive. Post a pic of your drums and shoes, and we can weigh in on those.

[hotwls13]

Originally Posted by Steeveedee

Probably not, those prices look competitive. Post a pic of your drums and shoes, and we can weigh in on those.

Pulled the master cylinder today. The small line that goes from the side of the MC to the proportioning valve busted. Is this a piece I can buy individually or do I need to make a custom one of my own? I don’t have any bending or flaring tools.

[jocko]

Originally Posted by hotwls13

Pulled the master cylinder today. The small line that goes from the side of the MC to the proportioning valve busted. Is this a piece I can buy individually or do I need to make a custom one of my own? I don’t have any bending or flaring tools.

LMC sells different kits, as most do, to accommodate the piece parts you may need, i.e. just the mc linges, or just the front, or the whole thing. If that one mc line was damaged in a single incident, might just bed it yourself. But if it just wore out for some reason, the others aren't far behind - $49 for entire mc line kit. Make sure to buy for your year, i.e. 70, as all lines should be 1/4" - if you accidentally buy a 71+, the fronts will be the wrong size for drums (3/16"). Also make sure you get them for a 1/2 ton as the 1/2 and 3/4 master connections are different in many cases.
http://www.lmctruck.com/icatalog/cb/full.aspx?Page=150

As for buying or borrowing bending/flaring tools - you can borrow til you're blue in the face, but I think you'd be happier in the long run having your own tools. Bending tools are dirt cheap. A "good" flaring set, not that cheap, but worth the investment - and the ability to re-do things that don't turn out quite right. It's a good basic mechanic skill to master - with rented or with your own tools.

[wpavlis]

You will need to make one unless you get a kit for the whole truck. Autozone should have a rental flaring tool and a bending tool. I have had to do that before.

[hotwls13]

Originally Posted by wpavlis

You will need to make one unless you get a kit for the whole truck. Autozone should have a rental flaring tool and a bending tool. I have had to do that before.

Didn't think about borrowing autozones tools. Great idea.

I haven't climbed under there yet (doing it today), but does the pushrod for the brake booster just attach with a pin on the top of the brake pedal??

[RustyBucket]

Go ahead & replace the shoes too unless you KNOW they're pretty fresh. I had the front drum brakes on a '66 Plymouth run me crazy awhile back because of the "BRAND NEW" looking front shoes. I had no front brakes and replaced every component with no results until I finally changed the shoes. I'd sanded on the shoes and the surface looked good, but no stopping power. Apparently the shoes were very old & crystalized or maybe had been previously soaked in brake fluid. Changed the shoes and it stopped pretty good for an old car.

[ryans69chevy]

You could try looking on Rockauto. I tried buying locally, but rockauto's prices were too good. Since you are replacing all the other brake component stuff I would also replace the shoes and get your drums turned or buy new. Then you know everything is good for awhile.

[hotwls13]

I thought I’ve read somewhere that if u are replacing shoes you should also replace the drums? Something about the shoes/drums once broken in fit perfectly together. And if u just put in new shoes, the arc of the shoes won’t match properly to the used drums??

[RustyBucket]

If the drums aren't warped, scored or worn too thin correct new shoes should fit good enough to run. Test fit the shoes inside the drum... I've chamfered or dressed the edges of new shoes with a file or grinder to make 'em sit a little better. I try to break them in by riding the pedal lightly some for a few miles. I've had them pull some until they seat themselves. OR maybe the the shoes you have are good to go. I just wanted you to avoid the crap experience I had with the new looking shoes on that old Plymouth.

[hotwls13]

Also, have u guys used this style of master cylinder on your trucks? Just weird to me that it has a bolt holding on the lid.

[mike1971c10]

It's best if you take your drums to a brake shop and have them miked, that way you will know if they are out of round, glazed up or no good. They should be able to grind the shoes to the drums. You can ride with your foot on the brake pedal, that can glaze them up and they will squeal. I think Inline Tube sells the brake lines
mike