55.2-59 ??12 V Electric Air Conditioning Compressor

[MD2020]

Anybody know anyone that is using this 12 V Electric Air Conditioning Compressor?
I have a old school 383 and I want it nice and clean under the Hood.

[crossfire84]

Originally Posted by MD2020

Anybody know anyone that is using this 12 V Electric Air Conditioning Compressor?
I have a old school 383 and I want it nice and clean under the Hood.

Well picture's sure would help to know what you're talking about.

[MD2020]

Sorry I missed that


https://www.seanhylandmotorsport.com...right-for-you/

[mr48chev]

Well if you have an extra thousand bucks minimum to blow just to get rid of the compressor it is viable. Sure would be nice on the flathead on my 31 Model A Victoria.

Actually I could use two of the as that would solve the issue of AC compresser on my 48 where I have the 292 with an excess of finned aluminum.

Even at the added 1000.00 cost over a Sanden Compressor I can see guy going for them on rigs where the compressor would ruin the look of the engine compartment. Not worth it if you have a firewall mounted brake booster though as the look is already destroyed.

[MD2020]

Well I don't have anything to start with.
I have to buy a A/C unit.

[mr48chev]

That is just the compressor, you still have to buy the AC unit. What you don't buy is the engine mounted compressor and the bracket. Compressors usually run about 200 and the bracket depending on the installation between 50 and 200 and maybe more.

Plus you need the extra hose to plumb the compressor where you locate it. Not a biggie but an added cost.

Now If I could just find a manual rack and pinion for the Jag XJS suspension that I have that won't break the bank.

[whitedog76]

I’m sure it would work fine. You still have to find a place to mount it. Let’s say you mount it under the cab, you would have to plumb it to the front to your condenser unit and then into the cab for your evaporator. Seems like a plumbing headache. Commercial trucks have been using “no idle” units for quite a few years. The no-idle units have their own on board battery. So, I’m assuming there’s quite a bit of current draw. So, you may have to mount an extra battery... Seems like a hornets nest of work for keeping it clean under the hood.

[MD2020]

Yes my brake booster and master cyl. is mounted under the cab and my fire wall is going to be slick, I don't really want my heater hoses to be there, but.
I was going to mount the 12 V Electric Air Conditioning Compressor between the inner and outer fender, making a bracket off the fire wall/cowl lip.
and i know that I need other parts also.
Not trying to be a A hole, but back to my Question.
Does anybody know someone that has used a 12 volt system? I can't find ant reviews on them.
My truck is a 1956 chevy.
Thanks for the comments.

[mr48chev]

This is the first time I have seen it and probably the first time others have unless as Whitedog76 said they saw them in another application.

You will need a high amp output alternator and I'd go for a high capacity battery.

The one that works for our trucks (unless you have a panel or burb or crew cab draws 31 amps and it fits anywhere you can stick a six pack of long necks. Since I am stretching my cab I'd put it behind the seat next to where I am putting the battery and a speaker or two in a box that would be well enough insulated you didn't hear it from inside the cab outside of maybe a low hum.

I'd be inclined to wait a bit and find out what the feedback was though.

[whitedog76]

I've only had experience with the commercial truck units. Sometimes they're a package unit on the back or roof of the cab. Other times they're a split unit with the compressor is under the sleeper.

Anyhow, I do remember seeing this company several years ago. I saw a compressor in the truck of an old Studebaker. As far as perfomance goes, etc... I can't say. If you look on their website, they say 30-50 amps current draw, again that means a large alternator.
http://www.cruisencomfortusa.com/hot...6m4hsq0il6u26z

[MD2020]

So the 12V A/C one for my truck draws 32 amps.
So what amp alternator would I need?
looking at the chart
http://powermastermotorsports.com/te...Alternator.pdf
Head lights 6
dash lights 4
my elec. fan is 10
HEI ignition 12
12 A/C 32
Elec. vacuume pump
for break booster 10
my draw would be about 74 Amp.

Thanks for the info.

[mr48chev]

10 or 12 SI alternators are pretty easy to find in the 100 amp range

You would probably have to re-clock it but stock alternators for 85 Cad Devilles came in 108 or 120 amp ratings and aren't hard to find. I've got one out in the shed that I plan to stick on my 48 that was on the last mid 80's Deville we had. I bought it a couple of months before something gave out on that one and pulled it off and kept it.
Or you can go buy a fancy one with 100+ amp output.

[Dyslexic Dog]

Originally Posted by mr48chev

10 or 12 SI alternators are pretty easy to find in the 100 amp range

You would probably have to re-clock it but stock alternators for 85 Cad Devilles came in 108 or 120 amp ratings and aren't hard to find. I've got one out in the shed that I plan to stick on my 48 that was on the last mid 80's Deville we had. I bought it a couple of months before something gave out on that one and pulled it off and kept it.
Or you can go buy a fancy one with 100+ amp output.

Understand that the size of the wire is going to be 1/2" Diameter. Not quite as big as the heater hose but large enough.

[b-mac]

Actually, #4 AWG will get you 30ft. Even if you upsized to #2, it's only about 1/4" diameter.

[Dyslexic Dog]

Originally Posted by b-mac

Actually, #4 AWG will get you 30ft. Even if you upsized to #2, it's only about 1/4" diameter.

DC current adds more heat. More voltage drop.

[MD2020]

cool

[1project2many]

Bus a/c units typically have two to three condenser fans and two to three evaporator fans across multiple evaporators along with a second battery to reduce surges caused by fan and compressor cycling. Draw on the alternator can be 30 to 50A at idle! Between lack of charging at lower RPM and heat production at higher RPM the alternator may have one helluva job maintaining a charge. If you're in an area that gets warm and your vehicle is expected to do a lot of idling or stop and go driving you should plan to use a more robust alternator than an "upgraded" 10SI or CS130 style unit. At a minimum I would ensure selection of a 12SI alternator such as Delco 321-594 with an "undersize" pulley for an older bracket system. If you can fit a CS144 alternator there are more options all the way up to aftermarket 200A versions although you should be sure to match output and armature RPM to your engine speed so there is sufficient charging at idle. If you have the room an AD244 alternator such as GM 10480390 might be more desirable due to larger case, larger cooling fan, and ample ventilation. With this much current being produced and especially with a smaller driven pulley you should also consider a serpentine belt system to be mandatory. Ultra-cool looking single V belt systems simply cannot transmit the necessary torque to the alternator pulley without putting excessive pressure on the alternator bearings.

[_Ogre]

sounds like a lot of $$ and work to go thru
look at my build, i mounted the ac real low
can't see it unless you look down

[tmoble]

perzackly.

[solidaxel]

Today's E V cars and trucks all have A/C are they all using the same electric compressor?

[MD2020]

If you don't have ANY of the components of a A/C for your ride, why does it matter how much money you spend to get the look and performance that you want.
Thanks to all.

[MD2020]

LOL

perzackly

[1project2many]

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=mRo05wph2F0

[b-mac]

That's badass. Sure, it's expensive, but so is the rest of this hobby (and most others).

[MD2020]

cool race car