Starting an old engine

[cgster]

Bought a 72 C10 that has a 350 engine/350 transmission. Truck probably hasn't been cranked in 7 or 8 years, if not longer. Guy I bought it from said it ran when parked, but you know how that goes.
Anyway, besides the obvious things such as changing oil and other fluids, plugs and fresh gas and battery, what else should I do before attempting to crank/start engine?

[OldBlue70C10]

Pull the plugs, and pour a little Marvel Mystery Oil down the cylinders, and let it sit for a couple of days. Then try turning over by hand/with a wrench be sure its free. Mine wouldn't turn when I tried it, but when i put a battery on it, it did.

[68Gold/white]

Most important thing, mu opinion, is to make sure the engine WILL spin. With the plugs out, put a break over or long ratchet on the crank bolt to see if you CAN turn the engine, and hopefully rotate it through a complete revolution!!!

If not you need to put some penetrating solution in each cylinder to try to lubricate each piston. Many recommend Marvel Mystery oil. I use auto trans fluid. Its wrks just as well for me, and is way cheaper.

[54blackhornet]

I got a small block 350 running after it sat for almost 20 years. Changed the oil and filter first, let it drain overnight. Pulled old plugs out and put a combination of diesel and ATF in each cylinder. It was not frozen after all that time so I just let it sit for a couple days. Spun it over a few times with plugs out, New plugs installed, checked points, fired right up....good luck, check for oil pressure....

[OldBlue70C10]

I've turned mine over, haven't actually tried to run it yet, but I am confident it's going to run. I'm more concerned with the Turbo 350 transmission. I've heard after sitting that long, the seals get hard and it won't go in gear. I haven't tried it yet, but I have my doubts.

[jcwren]

Many people recommend pulling the distributor and using an oil-pump primer (you can rent them at most any chain auto parts store). First change the oil. Ideally, start with the engine at TDC. Then, using a drill attached to the primer, run the pump for about 2 minutes. Rotate the crank 180 degrees, repeat. Do this two more times, and you will have forced oil through all the journals points with the cam and crank at all positions.

[bigmac73]

[QUOTE=jcwren;8456456]Many people recommend pulling the distributor and using an oil-pump primer (you can rent them at most any chain auto parts store).


Funny you would mention that , I walked into a Autozone wanting to rent one a couple of years ago. And the gentleman had no clue what i was talking about and he said he never heard of that before. I did a quick about face and walked out, shaking my head with no comment . And ordered one from summit an hour later

[RustyBucket]

My buddy made me a priming tool years ago out of an old distributor...

[jcwren]

Originally Posted by RustyBucket

My buddy made me a priming tool years ago out of an old distributor...

You can rent these for free from AutoZone, Advance Auto Parts, etc... I had to tear up a distributor from a 6-cyl engine because they don't make any for it. But the priming tool for the V8s are as common as house wives.

(or is it house flies? I was never sure which that was supposed to be...)

[sick472]

I'd would pull the carb and make sure the intake does not have "rat's nests" in it. Sure would be a bummer to suck trask into the engine. Might as well spray the carb down good while it's off.

It would be best to do this before you trun the engine by hand as advised above, that will cause some sucking in through the carb just not as much as with the starter or upon full ignition.

Once the carb and intake is clean and the engine is hand turned, you can develop oil pressure using the starter so long as you disable the distributer. No a bad idea to do this with the plugs out. No plugs makes it easier for the starter to turn the motor over and if you have put ATF, MMO, WD, or whatever in the cylinders, not having plugs in the engine will allow excess to come out...Too much oil in a cylinder can damage a pistion top on the compression stroke because oil will not compress and the pressure in the cylinder can "POP" the pistion top. Or build oil pressure as JC advises. You just need a oil pressure gage to know that it's happening.

Side notes:

Once I was checking an engine by turning the crank bolt but it would not budge. I tried the opposite direction and it started to turn, then went back to the proper direction and all was good. This worked for me, but make sure if you loosen the crank bolt during this effort that it gets retorqued before starting the engine.

And, Don't forget tranny fluid if it's an auto, no fluid can be hard on it just sitting there idling.