Replacing throttle linkage in a 1960 with ??

[demian5]

I need some guidance. Working on a 60 with the linkage throttle. Its not the greatest and it sticks and I know there are some better ones out there (already going with a lokar shifter).

I have a 350SB and a th400 without any kickdown switch. What have you guys switched the pedal and linkage over to for this scenario? Part numbers that work?

Thanks!

[cwcarpenter98]

I used a pedal from a squarebody to convert mine to cable linkage. I followed Markeb01's guidance to make mine fit. I would not recommend the squarebody pedal because of how the pedal arm is bent, but I made it work. The pedal was 10 bucks at the junkyard. If you want to go cable style, use a 71-72 pedal. It fits better with our firewall and trans hump. I got a new throttle cable from the parts store for the same year truck that I pulled the pedal out of.

[demian5]

Originally Posted by cwcarpenter98

I used a pedal from a squarebody to convert mine to cable linkage. I followed Markeb01's guidance to make mine fit. I would not recommend the squarebody pedal because of how the pedal arm is bent, but I made it work. The pedal was 10 bucks at the junkyard. If you want to go cable style, use a 71-72 pedal. It fits better with our firewall and trans hump. I got a new throttle cable from the parts store for the same year truck that I pulled the pedal out of.

How about some pictures?

[cwcarpenter98]

Here is what I followed: Mark's thread Post #110 is where it starts.

Here is some pics of mine. The pedal is a little too close to the brake pedal, and I ended up having to bend the pedal arm to bring the pedal up towards me more so that it would have full travel. Sometimes the pedal is at an uncomfortable place if driving long distances.
If I were to do it again, I would use the 71-72 pedal. If I find a pedal for a good price, I might go ahead and redo mine

Don't know why the last two pics are flipped, sorry

[AcampoDave]

I took my original unit and completely disassembled and cleaned it with some solvent and fine steel wool. I noticed that there are actually metal bushings in the pivot and mine were kinda worn and had some wiggle. I had another assembly so I I mixed and matched the best components, greased the bushings and put it back on the firewall with a homemade rubber gasket to seal out noise and heat. Next I re-evauated my linkage to my Edebrock carb and found more slop there too. I cured that with some junk I had on hand from some old parts carbs. After all was said and done, I made sure that flooring the pedal completely opened the throttle blades. (It didn't.) Now, my throttle works as good as new and I'm also enjoying the extra free ponies that I get with a wide open carb.

[cwcarpenter98]

I would have liked to do what Dave did, but in my case, I used a 70s model quadrajet so I could have an electric choke, and the easiest way for me to get it to work was to convert to a cable style pedal. If I had kept the old Rochester 2 Jet, I would have stayed mechanical linkage

[demian5]

I ended up using a universal throttle rod from summit and a B&M th400 trans kickdown and bracket for the trans.

[64shortbox]

Here's excellent step by step instructions with pictures written by markeb01. Start at post #111 on his build thread:

http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...arkeb01&page=5

I used his instructions & procedures when I did my suspended gas pedal installation.

[demian5]

Went with a throttle rod from the truck and car shop. Worked great!

Used a B&M th400 kick down as well and it works fantastic. Kinda strange but works great!