which steel tubing for mechanical oil sensor

[turpentyne]

We discovered yet another thing the shop screwed up. They snipped off the metal tube for the (perfectly good) mechanical oil sensor, and threw on an electrical one that isn't even wired correctly.

So, I want to put a new line back in. I've found all the correct fittings, and it looks most people are replacing with copper lines, but I'd rather use stainless steel so it's as durable as the original.

I know it's a 1/8" line, but I'm looking at Grainger and seeing several options and not quite sure which one is the best choice. I'm assuming 1/8 is the outer diameter, but I don't know pressure, etc. to choose. Maybe somebody else has done this and found just the right thing.

Here's the page I'm looking at: https://www.grainger.com/category/pl...&filters=attrs

[Steeveedee]

I would not use copper tube, as it will work harden and eventually crack. I'm not exactly sure what is on there now, and it's raining, so I'm not going to go and look. :shrug:

You sure haven't had a lot of luck with that "shop". You might consider letting the people here where NOT to take their trucks. What a bunch of hacks.

[Grumpy old man]

25" should be long enough ?

https://www.speedwaymotors.com/Braid...-Kit,4147.html

[LockDoc]

Originally Posted by Grumpy old man

25" should be long enough ?

https://www.speedwaymotors.com/Braid...-Kit,4147.html

You can get by with a shorter line if you are using the braided stuff but I don't think 25" will do it.. If you are using 1/8" OD tubing you will need a piece 38" long. Here is how it should be formed and installed.


How to make a new oil pressure line for the Chevy small block V-8's, using 1/8” copper tubing, a brass adaptor, and 2 brass compression sleeve nuts. First install the block adapter fitting and snug it down. I would use a small amout of thread sealer or 1 ½ wraps of teflon tape on the threads. Do not over tighten! Then bend the line to the shape shown in the pictures below. The coiled part is 1 1/2 coils that are about 2 ½” in diameter. Just wrap the tubing around an object that is close to that diameter. The coil is needed to absorb vibration and movement of the engine. Once you have the general shape, insert the long straight end of the line through the firewall, then screw the bottom sleeve nut into the block adapter fitting while pushing down on the 1/8" tubing. (do not completely tighten) Then go inside, slide the sleeve nut back on the tubing if you removed it, push the tube inside of the oil pressure gauge as far as it will go and while holding it in, tighten the compression sleeve nut. Then finish tightening the sleeve nut on the block adapter fitting. Do not over tighten these sleeve nuts! About ¾ turn after they are seated should do it. After you start the engine check for leaks at all connections and snug up as needed….

LockDoc

[LockDoc]

Originally Posted by Steeveedee

I would not use copper tube, as it will work harden and eventually crack. I'm not exactly sure what is on there now, and it's raining, so I'm not going to go and look. :shrug:

You sure haven't had a lot of luck with that "shop". You might consider letting the people here where NOT to take their trucks. What a bunch of hacks.

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I disagree on the generalization of the copper line work hardening. It depends on the type of copper. The copper oil pressure lines I sell are made from 1/8" refrigeration copper that is designed for installation in areas that are subject to heat, cold, vibration, and high pressure. Most of the original lines were mild steel tubing and some of them had a piece of vacuum type hose over the line, I presume to help dampen vibration. Also, some of them were one piece and some of them were two piece with a coupler at the firewall.

Here is a picture of the correct brass fittings for the mechanical oil pressure lines on our trucks. The line is measured by the outside diameter. Just about any tubing will be fine for the amount of pressure of an automotive engine.

LockDoc

[Steeveedee]

Originally Posted by LockDoc

-
I disagree on the generalization of the copper line work hardening. It depends on the type of copper. The copper oil pressure lines I sell are made from 1/8" refrigeration copper that is designed for installation in areas that are subject to heat, cold, vibration, and high pressure. Most of the original lines were mild steel tubing and some of them had a piece of vacuum type hose over the line, I presume to help dampen vibration. Also, some of them were one piece and some of them were two piece with a coupler at the firewall.

Here is a picture of the correct brass fittings for the mechanical oil pressure lines on our trucks. The line is measured by the outside diameter. Just about any tubing will be fine for the amount of pressure of an automotive engine.

LockDoc

Agreed, The high nickel content tubing would be OK. I see where people also use it for brake lines because it is a lot easier to form than steel. This is one application where I would not be able to bring myself to use anything but steel, personally. But that's just one hard-headed old mechanic's take on it.

[turpentyne]

I'm inclined to not use copper tubing - even though it's much cheaper than steel tubing. I've heard people say it can wear out, crack and spray oil, despite adding in the spiral like in the images above... like Steeveedee mentioned above.

I think I want steel tubing, but I'm wondering if anybody's successfully picked out the right steel tubing. The link in my first post had several different options, so I wasn't sure what to go for.

Although the steel braided line might be interesting. I've only ever thought about it for brake lines.

[turpentyne]

You sure haven't had a lot of luck with that "shop". You might consider letting the people here where NOT to take their trucks. What a bunch of hacks.

Yeah... I've been cautious of saying the company name, for fear of a lawsuit. But it's Arizona Engine Rebuilding, formerly Master Engine Rebuilders.

[WorkinLonghorn]

LockDoc, thanks for the two posts above. I can't find my original oil line and need to make a new one. This is just what I needed. -BA

[LockDoc]

Originally Posted by turpentyne

I'm inclined to not use copper tubing - even though it's much cheaper than steel tubing. I've heard people say it can wear out, crack and spray oil, despite adding in the spiral like in the images above... like Steeveedee mentioned above.

I think I want steel tubing, but I'm wondering if anybody's successfully picked out the right steel tubing. The link in my first post had several different options, so I wasn't sure what to go for.

Although the steel braided line might be interesting. I've only ever thought about it for brake lines.

Everyone needs to do what they feel comfortable with. I have used the copper oil lines on all of my builds since 2004 with no issues. That would be 6 trucks and 2 hotrods......

LockDoc

Originally Posted by WorkinLonghorn

LockDoc, thanks for the two posts above. I can't find my original oil line and need to make a new one. This is just what I needed. -BA

No problem.

Thanks,
LockDoc

[CUSTOM/10]

I'm going to use stainless steel 1/8 annealed tubing. If I didn't have soom available I'd have no concerns using copper, just make sure it's not rubbing on anything.

[Steeveedee]

Originally Posted by turpentyne

Yeah... I've been cautious of saying the company name, for fear of a lawsuit. But it's Arizona Engine Rebuilding, formerly Master Engine Rebuilders.

I don't think that they can go after you when you report the truth of the situation. There would likely be even more negative publicity. Free legal advice, worth every penny you paid for it.

[rechinca]

Lockdoc does sell the kits in his pics. I installed mine to replace the original only because the original had a union in the middle and was twisted all sorts of directions when it had an engine change prior to me. The kit is super nice and easy to install. Unless you have a short line or one without the coils in it to help with the vibration I doubt you’ll have any issue with the copper line. Besides if you have the factory oil pressure gauge I am not sure how those fittings work on the steel lines as I have no experience with it.