Bellcrank z-bar issues. Cannot get it off!

[Mbeef61]

Trying to remove clutch linkage. Cannot for the life of me get the bellcrank/zbar off. It moves somewhat between frame and motor but I cannot get enough lift. It goes about 3/4 the way and then pins against the ball mount on motor. I need to remove Both to rebuild/repair and to install headers that are on their way.

Clutch linkage is frankensteined together. I have no idea if it’s stock or correct (I assume not) 350 in i6 position. A previous repair/fab was done to bellcrank (welds look like a blindfolded 2 year old)

A piece was added to the frame mount (no idea why) and looks like lever to the fork pushrod either broke or was moved and re welded. Everything worked fine. But it needs to come off for header install. I would like to get it fitting properly.

Any advice on removal? What bellcrank does it look like? How can I fashion one that fits and works?

[notsolo]

You may have to jack up the motor, Z bar frame mount is riveted on frame that looks original. looks to have been repaired. Other option is drill out the rivets and bolt the bracket back on....You may be able to put a bushing in the linkage hole also to tighten it up.

[Grumpy old man]

Loosen the motor mount and jack the engine up a bit . here are some pics that may help .

[Mbeef61]

That’s what I was afraid of. Just loosen that side motor mount? Other side? Trans? Where do lift from?

Is that second picture all different bellcranks?

[Mbeef61]

Also, can you think of any reason to add that piece to the frame mount?

[Grumpy old man]

small piece of plywood on a floor jack and jack up the oil pan . You may have enough leeway in the mount to just try jacking it up slowly and slide the bell crank out. Those are some parts bell cranks from my trucks 6 and V8 .It looks like they added that extra metal to keep it from binding up .

[Mbeef61]

Well I tried jacking it up without loosening anything and it wasn’t enough. I am assuming I loosen the single bolt under the arched mount? Any idea how much thread I have before it’s out? I really don’t want to try and find that hole if it comes out.

I was also thinking I could try to unscrew the ball mount from the block but there is no way to get a wrench in it and I don’t think I can reach it. Uuuugh

[Grumpy old man]

Make it easy on yourself and drill out 2 rivits and get a new frame mount to replace the welded up one and bolt in the new one . All the small parts and pieces are available and just rebuild the complete bell crank assembly .

parts - https://www.classicparts.com/Clutch-Parts/products/432/

[Grumpy old man]

parts

[69 C10 LWB]

It’s pretty easy to remove the 3 bolts that hold the motor mount to the block. That will give you enough movement to get the z bar out after you jack it up a bit. I had to do that on my truck and it wasn’t too bad.

[Mbeef61]

Originally Posted by 69 C10 LWB

It’s pretty easy to remove the 3 bolts that hold the motor mount to the block. That will give you enough movement to get the z bar out after you jack it up a bit. I had to do that on my truck and it wasn’t too bad.

Did you have the correct v8 bellcrank? I am just confused why this is an issue for me. I am guessing it’s not the correct bellcrank. Probably the i6 version, what that your issue?

[69 C10 LWB]

I had a V8 in a V8 truck. I don’t know the history of the truck though and it could have been the wrong one when I put the engine in. In my case I got the engine in and couldn’t get the z bar in until I lifted the block. I also had manifolds not headers.

[rechinca]

Another good place for everything (including the bellcrank and frame bracket but not the correct pushrod) is 4speedconcersions.com. The correct pushrod is tricky to find. I second deep-sixing the booger welded frame mount. Once you get that out and a good one in you have a better base. I can’t see from the pics, but it’s possibly jacked up anyhow. If you take it out and remove the welded on plate and find the frame bracket to be still good, just bolt it back in to place.

[rechinca]

Another thought just occurred. It looks as though the engine side stud is screwed into the boss on the block and not a plate bolted into the block. If so I think you may be able to get to it with a wrench to loosen it making it move in to the tube. If so, you might be able to remove the bell crank assembly and go from there. Just throwing out an option if it can be done, but I’d consider removing the bracket as that plate welded to it looks sketchy.

[Mbeef61]

From those pictures it looks like I probably have the i6 bellcrank. It’s cylinder part is bigger. Also the arms are straight. That’s what I have. V8 the cylinder looks smaller and the arms are bent. They are also about an inch different in length. I an just not sure which one to use with v8 in i6 position

I also see there are two different motor ball studs. Which is correct?

Trouble is I got new headers coming, which are the same Kind I have now but new. They fit with this bellcrank.

[Mbeef61]

So I got the thing off. I used a combination of loosening the motor mount, unscrewing the ball from the block, and a ratchet strap and pry bar.

I am not sure how to go about replacing it. I am taking measurements. From pictures it looks like an i6 version.

Does zbar look familiar to anyone? Ball joint look familiar?

I can tell it’s been bent and rewelded a lot. At some point someone changed the clutch fork linkage to a heim joint which I like.

Zbar tube is 5.4 inches long. 1.125” OD. 1” ID tapering to 7/8”.
Motor mount for ball stud to frame mount is 6.25”

[Grumpy old man]

This is one of the problems with pulling out a 6 and dropping a V8 in it's place . Since the trans hasn't moved you have to use parts for a 6 and be creative , I recently swapped out the 6 for a small block but I changed the trans cross member to the V8 style and everything just drops into place . You said you were using new headers so best bet would be to get them in and build out the linkage from there so you know it fits and it's not binding up .

[Sheepdip]

Originally Posted by Mbeef61

So I got the thing off. I used a combination of loosening the motor mount, unscrewing the ball from the block, and a ratchet strap and pry bar.

I am not sure how to go about replacing it. I am taking measurements. From pictures it looks like an i6 version.

Does zbar look familiar to anyone? Ball joint look familiar?

I can tell it’s been bent and rewelded a lot. At some point someone changed the clutch fork linkage to a heim joint which I like.

Zbar tube is 5.4 inches long. 1.125” OD. 1” ID tapering to 7/8”.
Motor mount for ball stud to frame mount is 6.25”

This site has some pretty good info on clutch parts.
https://www.4speedconversions.com/

[Grumpy old man]

Reading your other thread on your linkage , Is this all the room you have for the clutch rod throw ? If so you may want to reconsider those headers and go with rams horn manifolds to get more room ? with such a short throw your going to have issues with clutch release forever . Drill out the frame bracket rivits and get a new bracket and bolt it in place to ease install of the bellcrank .

http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=783790

[Mbeef61]

Yeah I guess I am going to do just that. I have new headers. Same as the ones that came off but new and ceramic coated. I will put them on and reinstall this mess. I plan on moving within the next year or 2 and then will be doing frame off and putting in an LS and hydraulic 5 speed. I just need to get though a year or so.

I appreciate your help

[Mbeef61]

That’s all the room there is yes. There have been modifications done to the headers I believe as well as the z bar. It’s a 350 in the i6 position with a Saginaw 4 speed. Everything worked fine when I started this project. Clutch engaged and disengaged fully. Smooth pedal. Smooth shifts. I did have to lengthen the pushrod with a little all thread but it functioned perfectly.

Project started due to dirty gas tank. Sucked up debris. Had to clean the carb. So I went with a Boyd’s tank. Running new fuel line I had to remove the header to access the frame rail. Headers were rotten. So to take the drivers side off I had to remove the zbar. And here we are.

I got the new headers. They are ceramic coated. Same as the old ones. Except it looks like in the past someone heated and bent one of the pipes slightly to allow for a little more clutch linkage clearance. So I am considering my options.

1) adjust the linkage a bit more (cheapest)
2) send the headers back and get the steel ones and heat and bend a little to match the old ones (probably next cheapest)
3) rams horns (more expensive because it won’t line up with my current exhaust and I’ll have to redo)
4) different headers (probably most expensive and same issue as rams horns)

[Mbeef61]

This was my plan and hoping it works. Picture helps. The red arrow shows the tube that was bent and the direction. It’s about 3/4 to and inch. I hope to move the linkage out about that amount to compensate for these headers not being bent.

[Grumpy old man]

It's always something .

[Mbeef61]

So I fabbed up a new bell crank. I ended up doing #1 choice and fabbed up new linkage. That was the cheapest. I like the coated headers and didn’t want to send them back. I had to modify the i6 crank since v8 one is too wide to fit. I also fixed the motor ball end so I don’t have to loosen a motor mount and lift the motor to get it in and out.

I moved the fork pushrod about 2 inches towards the motor so the pushrod runs between the headers and oil filter. Pretty straight shot to the fork. Also used an heim joint for the pushrod.

I have to put the seat back in so I can test ride tomorrow. I’ll post a picture from underneath tomorrow